Pile it on Dan, I’m clueless about grounding. No wiring yet, but a ground wire from the sending unit to the ground bar under the insole will be good. Right?fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 28, 2021 9:33 pm Also, Dan. Piling on some, but did you ground the metal sender screws?
C19 in Richmond, VA
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Re: C19 in Richmond, VA
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Re: C19 in Richmond, VA
The sending unit is metal. The issue is fuel entering the tank can create static.
Despite the fuel sender being insulated by a rubber insolater; it is for some ungodly reason that the sender metal be grounded which means you need to back out a screw and put it back in.
I did not and have not done it, yet, but Tom has indicated it is required. And I believe he is correct. But I can't stand the idea of loosening one of the screws that seals my tank sender...
Despite the fuel sender being insulated by a rubber insolater; it is for some ungodly reason that the sender metal be grounded which means you need to back out a screw and put it back in.
I did not and have not done it, yet, but Tom has indicated it is required. And I believe he is correct. But I can't stand the idea of loosening one of the screws that seals my tank sender...
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Re: C19 in Richmond, VA
Or maybe I am confused and it completes the circuit.
Re: C19 in Richmond, VA
Boat is looking great.Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Sun Nov 28, 2021 9:43 pmTrue, but I doubled up the frames so they are 1” thick, and letting the joint sit in the middle. A good 1/2” under then end of each with a fillet. Still maybe need a little more?
Are you/ have you done a fillet from underside of gunwale to frame and taped this joint? Will you glass the top as well?
I think it would be cheap insurance to add a 1x1 each side of the frame if not. I did a similar thing on my OD 18 and the butt joint "telegraphed" through the gunwale on the top side so you could see a faint line.
Re: C19 in Richmond, VA
I had seen some photos of this "telegraphing", possibly yours, so I routed a V groove into the top of my deck splices and filled with woodflour/epoxy in hopes that the butt joint would stay hidden. So far so good.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
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Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: C19 in Richmond, VA
The cause of print through is variations in the materials.
The best way to defeat printing through is post curing the boat or part prior to paint.
Here are two pictures of my helm riser, not postcured with holes filled with cabosil and epoxy. The filler probably ought to have had some milled fiber. So interesting how the gravity affected the direction of the sag. The side ones sagged out and the top ones down.
The riser was probably sitting in the paint room for 30 days. These manifested themselves as soon as the riser was subjected to 100F, no direct sun here, in the tent. Adding fiber to the filler should help some, but post curing is the only sure fix.
The best way to defeat printing through is post curing the boat or part prior to paint.
Here are two pictures of my helm riser, not postcured with holes filled with cabosil and epoxy. The filler probably ought to have had some milled fiber. So interesting how the gravity affected the direction of the sag. The side ones sagged out and the top ones down.
The riser was probably sitting in the paint room for 30 days. These manifested themselves as soon as the riser was subjected to 100F, no direct sun here, in the tent. Adding fiber to the filler should help some, but post curing is the only sure fix.
Re: C19 in Richmond, VA
Dan a 1/2" is really not a lot for a deck to rest on when they are flexing with the motion of the boat. While Jeff's boat is 14' and his fix may work for him, your going out in the Bay in bigger water and waves.
Well think about it. Tom
Well think about it. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: C19 in Richmond, VA
Correct fallguy fuel entering the fill to the tank can create static thus the need for the ground. Do it by loosening one of the nuts underneath and using a loop fitting on the end of the ground wire attach the ground wire. Then run the ground wire to the fuel guage fitting on the tank and do the same thing, loosen one of the screws put the loop under it and retighten it. In your case fallguy use seperate screws for each ground don't double them up on one screw, this will let you tighten them down properly. Of course use the smallest loop possible. Don't worry boat mfg's have to do this to all there boats. All the builders before you have all had to do iit if they did it right.fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 28, 2021 10:42 pm The sending unit is metal. The issue is fuel entering the tank can create static.
Despite the fuel sender being insulated by a rubber insolater; it is for some ungodly reason that the sender metal be grounded which means you need to back out a screw and put it back in.
I did not and have not done it, yet, but Tom has indicated it is required. And I believe he is correct. But I can't stand the idea of loosening one of the screws that seals my tank sender...
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: C19 in Richmond, VA
What is "post curing" Allowing the material to go up and down within temperature range?fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 29, 2021 10:31 am The cause of print through is variations in the materials.
The best way to defeat printing through is post curing the boat or part prior to paint.
Here are two pictures of my helm riser, not postcured with holes filled with cabosil and epoxy. The filler probably ought to have had some milled fiber. So interesting how the gravity affected the direction of the sag. The side ones sagged out and the top ones down.
The riser was probably sitting in the paint room for 30 days. These manifested themselves as soon as the riser was subjected to 100F, no direct sun here, in the tent.CA92A7AB-8829-47FC-B1BA-8071BC9BEDD7.jpegC3D2092E-6592-45D2-A9F7-E6A23A77E6F1.jpeg
Adding fiber to the filler should help some, but post curing is the only sure fix.
Also, were these filled holes covered with glass?
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Re: C19 in Richmond, VA
No glass, no room for glass as it was already glassed and I did not want to fair the sides again. Top was same. Already glassed, so no glass.Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Nov 29, 2021 1:09 pmWhat is "post curing" Allowing the material to go up and down within temperature range?fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 29, 2021 10:31 am The cause of print through is variations in the materials.
The best way to defeat printing through is post curing the boat or part prior to paint.
Here are two pictures of my helm riser, not postcured with holes filled with cabosil and epoxy. The filler probably ought to have had some milled fiber. So interesting how the gravity affected the direction of the sag. The side ones sagged out and the top ones down.
The riser was probably sitting in the paint room for 30 days. These manifested themselves as soon as the riser was subjected to 100F, no direct sun here, in the tent.CA92A7AB-8829-47FC-B1BA-8071BC9BEDD7.jpegC3D2092E-6592-45D2-A9F7-E6A23A77E6F1.jpeg
Adding fiber to the filler should help some, but post curing is the only sure fix.
Also, were these filled holes covered with glass?
Post curing is heating the item up to about 155F for two hours with a ramp up and cool down. I post cured the hulls for 8 hours in a 40' shipping can.
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