Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Dan post curing is not needed in your case. A properly constructed joint will prevent print trhough. I have no print through after 12 years on my OD18. Just make sure you have plenty of glueing surface for the decks to rest on. JimW built the first C19 down in FL in 1996 and it is still running today. Many have been built since then, I almost built one myself before buying CL OD18.

Tom

A dark paint on any of these s&g or foam/epoxy boats will print through all sorts of stuff.

White or light paint, good seams, low variation in materials all contribute to less print through. But the best way is to cook them.

Totally unneeded for almost every build here; save a dark paint. Even then, you can accept print through and address it @repaint time.

My assumption is that print through is ultimately inevitable if not covered with glass, but can be minimized with all of the appropriate prep. The tops of these decks will be covered with 12oz biax. I hope this prevents any print through. Print through on the decks, if it occurs, will bug the sh*t out of me every time I see it.

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Wed Dec 01, 2021 9:53 am My assumption is that print through is ultimately inevitable if not covered with glass, but can be minimized with all of the appropriate prep. The tops of these decks will be covered with 12oz biax. I hope this prevents any print through. Print through on the decks, if it occurs, will bug the sh*t out of me every time I see it.

You may get a bit of it. 12 oz biax has stitching that can show thru. I have not had much trouble, but the boat has not seen a ton of hot sun; just the cabin got some and yes, had some print thru.

If it happens at all; you'll fix it on repaint. But probably won't get any..

Dan, I am building the C19 In Maryland (north of DC). I am wondering where you got your fuel tanks from.

Thanks
Steve Feeney

Cool, Steve!

Chad Martin at Martin’s Custom Marine in Gloucester made them for me. I’ll send you his contact info.

Got my hands on a few Sea Dog pie plate hatches to finalizing hole sizes, and started mocking up the final frame/splash well/seating area.



Having held the sole short from the transom to allow open access to the bilge provided the need to add a cleat between the stringer knee and the motorwell side, as well as a sole extension. These cleats extend under the sole by 9" or so. Will be glued to the bottom of the sole, along the outboard stringer, and tie into the clamping board.



I milled these 1-1/2" x 3" from a chunk of spansih cedar I had in the pile. I regret not using Spanish cedar in lieu of all of the doug fir I used for cleats and and chines earlier in the build. SC is lightweight and easy to machine. It should be considered for any solid wood needs from here on out.

Glass on the insides of the motor well sides and front. Temporarily screwed together for fitment and head scratching. Deck drain needs to be integrated somehow. I'd like to recess them into the deck, like someone did on their SK14; think it may was Mojo... I'm reluctant to route the drain tube until I know where the waterline will be. What if I have made the boat so heavy, even with 1-1/4" of lift under the sole, deck level is below waterline.

Hey Dan - yes, that was me with the recessed drain, which is actually a detail I borrowed from Seaslug’s FS14. In my case it just drains to the bilge and is not self bailing - so the relationship to the DWL is unimportant. Also, the bottom of the recess is the top of the sole butt block. Is your sole already installed? Not sure how you would pull it off if that is the case - but there’s a bunch or smart people around here that can probably help out.

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Thu Dec 16, 2021 8:29 pm Is your sole already installed?

Yes, sole installed, but inadvertently leaving it 6” short gives me the opportunity to add to it with a butt block that will hold the drain.

It’s a sharp, functional detail. Juice is worth the squeeze!

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Thu Dec 16, 2021 9:56 pm

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Thu Dec 16, 2021 8:29 pm Is your sole already installed?

Yes, sole installed, but inadvertently leaving it 6” short gives me the opportunity to add to it with a butt block that will hold the drain.

It’s a sharp, functional detail. Juice is worth the squeeze!

Dan - if your C19 is anything like mine was (it may well be much lighter) - but it is plenty self bailing at the dock, but water will come in through the scuppers if you are mucking around at the back/ slow trolling in a following sea, all peering over the back after your buddy dropped the gaff etc etc…

I eventually went with keeping the scuppers plugged (with easily removable plugs) and a bilge/ pump when using it. Scuppers out when moored or on the trot line and no one in the boat.

Be careful that your bilge area can’t flood the rest of the boat (ie through a leaky chase tube) and is small enough that it won’t add much weight when/ if full.

I haven’t tried the Gemlux duck billed scuppers - they look great. Toyed with the rib style “ flattened pvc trailing hose ones” - I think they work great but ugly doesn’t even describe them!

Tried flaps/ ping pong balls too without much luck.

Good choice putting a small bilge in I think.

Went for a walk yesterday and saw this and thought of you … don’t know what the box in front of the transom motorwell is for - but the side seating is in a similar vain to what I have in mind on your build?