Yup. The inside glass is already slightly more than specced in most places. I have a lot of wide cloth but no more tape. So for the inside boxes I was running two wide pieces across and tape cut from the cloth on the joins as well. This equates to the specced thickness at all keel, chine and stringer joins, but more in the middle of panels. Won't make a difference in use I expect.
The dense block foam will be in the middle of each box and built to the level of the sole, which will rest on the cleats and foam. This will further stiffen the panels, and give quieter operation.
C17 in New Zealand.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
I am thinking this is going to be one tough boat
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Increased toughness and safety without greatly increased weight is what I am after. I can buy more block foam on the cheap as well.
I'll put pour foam down the sides in pontoons above the sole. That will stiffen the sides, but the purpose is purely flotation. I'm after Stabicraft levels of safety.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzZdY8RxAiI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tE8lpOrlv98
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
The Stabicraft have a lot of great features going for them. We have had a local dealer for a fairly long time. With that being said I do not see many of them out on the water. I think it is because they have two things working against them. One, they do not offer much in the way of creature comforts. Two, they are just butt-ugly
I love the idea of building a boat that will float high out of the water fully swamped. And having one built that will remain upright when swamped is a great idea. Most boats that will remain floating will only do so upside down. Here we need boats that will keep most of your body out of the water as even in mid summer an immersed person's life span is measured in minutes. I think many of us would be better off putting most of that foam we love high in the sides and not in the bottom.
I love the idea of building a boat that will float high out of the water fully swamped. And having one built that will remain upright when swamped is a great idea. Most boats that will remain floating will only do so upside down. Here we need boats that will keep most of your body out of the water as even in mid summer an immersed person's life span is measured in minutes. I think many of us would be better off putting most of that foam we love high in the sides and not in the bottom.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Agree. Bottom only can work if you have massive scuppers to clear any water on deck. Then in effect you have a surfboard with a safety rail. Not comfortable and possibly wet, certainly in the 17' size.Fuzz wrote: ↑Mon May 03, 2021 5:06 am The Stabicraft have a lot of great features going for them. We have had a local dealer for a fairly long time. With that being said I do not see many of them out on the water. I think it is because they have two things working against them. One, they do not offer much in the way of creature comforts. Two, they are just butt-ugly
I love the idea of building a boat that will float high out of the water fully swamped. And having one built that will remain upright when swamped is a great idea. Most boats that will remain floating will only do so upside down. Here we need boats that will keep most of your body out of the water as even in mid summer an immersed person's life span is measured in minutes. I think many of us would be better off putting most of that foam we love high in the sides and not in the bottom.
We have a lot of similar boats (we call them pontoons) in NZ: Stabicraft, DNA, Frewza, Osprey, Profile, Senator, Kiwikraft come to mind immediately. They are a popular choice for day fishing boats, and down South in Foveaux Strait, where a combination of cold shallow water, changable weather and a wind funnel effect can be deadly. NZers don't always have deep pockets, nowhere is more than 100miles to the sea, so it's not unknown for people to take 16' boats 20miles offshore. I took a 12' 6 miles into the Tasman sea, though I picked the weather carefully. So in the smaller sizes they are a popular choice. Glass boats are more for family than fishing. Riveted boats are either old, imported or very rare in sizes above a dinghy. That leaves welded Aluminium, and pontoons are safer.
https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/779100 ... ter-season
Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Kiwi creature comforts are along the lines of a bucket to piss in. Boom Bucket
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
I'm definitely getting one of those. Maybe a cassette toilet if the wife comes regularly.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
That is what my wife wants! She’s too cheap to spend on a nice head.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Bit of progress the last couple of weeks. Winter is jut around the corner, so I've ordered 800mL of WEST fast Hardener and am using that in conjunction with the slow for the next few months. Progress will be slow, just a few hours every weekend, if that.
Painted the outside of the hull except the transom area with two coats of POR15 high build primer. POR15 is the only one part polyurethane available in NZ. I decided long ago not to use 2 part paints, and not to spray. So roll and brush it is. The primer is sandable and will get blocked back before topcoating. I'm not 100% happy with the finish; there's a little orange peel in places, but a good sanding and another coat will sort it.
Also sorting out Frame A. Hole cut in the center for anchor storage. My first attempt freehanding with a jig saw looked a little like I'd ignored power tools and just chewed it out with my teeth. So I widened the hole for a second attempt with hole saw, cutting guides, and a flush cut router bit. Much better. Sistered a couple of supports for the deck and laminated it on.
Painted the outside of the hull except the transom area with two coats of POR15 high build primer. POR15 is the only one part polyurethane available in NZ. I decided long ago not to use 2 part paints, and not to spray. So roll and brush it is. The primer is sandable and will get blocked back before topcoating. I'm not 100% happy with the finish; there's a little orange peel in places, but a good sanding and another coat will sort it.
Also sorting out Frame A. Hole cut in the center for anchor storage. My first attempt freehanding with a jig saw looked a little like I'd ignored power tools and just chewed it out with my teeth. So I widened the hole for a second attempt with hole saw, cutting guides, and a flush cut router bit. Much better. Sistered a couple of supports for the deck and laminated it on.
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