'Looking good OWT. Keep up the good work. Like that you built the raised shear.
Tom
C17 in New Zealand.
Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Hey Tom. it's been a while since you've had the C17 plans IIRC, so you may have forgotten that this is the standard C17. I've omitted the transom boxes is all, going for a full width motorwell.
Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Gotcha. TomOneWayTraffic wrote: ↑Fri Oct 08, 2021 3:08 pm Hey Tom. it's been a while since you've had the C17 plans IIRC, so you may have forgotten that this is the standard C17. I've omitted the transom boxes is all, going for a full width motorwell.
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Glass going down on the underside of the stern sole piece. It overlaps onto the edge of the buttblocks to further tie them in. 9mm sole with 400gsm glass turned out to be cheaper than 12mm ply in my case.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Major milestone last weekend.
Glued the rear sole in. Took my time using a Grinder with 100grit disc to take the tops of the stringer and cleats to wood--I'd never epoxy coated these systematically, but a lot of drips and drops. Then a coat of epoxy to prime and another on the underside of the sole, just over the stringers and frames. Then a coat of epoxy thickened to near ketchup consistency on top of that and left to gell.
After an hour I mixed about 500ml (1 pint) of epoxy and thickened with chopped glass fibres, silica and microfibres to a glugly peanut butter paste. The chopped fibres allow the mix to be a little wetter and still hold together very well. Also good for filling gaps. This was piled on the stringers and mounded into a little inverse V with the sole on top. Then with my son's help we dropped the sole on and weighed it down. I filled in the edges today to stay within the primary bond window. I'll clean it up and glass once it's fully cured. The milled fibres are great but they make it impossible to keep things clean.
What I didn't do is glue the block foam to the underside of the sole. In this back section there's a gap, it's not completely level with the stringers. I'm wishing I had (I'd thought about it) as there's noticeable flex when I stand on the middle of the back panel, even with the glass underneath. I can think of a few remedies for it, but will wait and see if it improves once the epoxy is fully cured and edges taped. Front sections will have the high density foam glued to the sole.
Glued the rear sole in. Took my time using a Grinder with 100grit disc to take the tops of the stringer and cleats to wood--I'd never epoxy coated these systematically, but a lot of drips and drops. Then a coat of epoxy to prime and another on the underside of the sole, just over the stringers and frames. Then a coat of epoxy thickened to near ketchup consistency on top of that and left to gell.
After an hour I mixed about 500ml (1 pint) of epoxy and thickened with chopped glass fibres, silica and microfibres to a glugly peanut butter paste. The chopped fibres allow the mix to be a little wetter and still hold together very well. Also good for filling gaps. This was piled on the stringers and mounded into a little inverse V with the sole on top. Then with my son's help we dropped the sole on and weighed it down. I filled in the edges today to stay within the primary bond window. I'll clean it up and glass once it's fully cured. The milled fibres are great but they make it impossible to keep things clean.
What I didn't do is glue the block foam to the underside of the sole. In this back section there's a gap, it's not completely level with the stringers. I'm wishing I had (I'd thought about it) as there's noticeable flex when I stand on the middle of the back panel, even with the glass underneath. I can think of a few remedies for it, but will wait and see if it improves once the epoxy is fully cured and edges taped. Front sections will have the high density foam glued to the sole.
Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Congrats on the Milestone OWT, and great description of the process!
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Feels good to stand on something flat, doesn't it!
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Thanks you two. I'm not sure if flat is the right word. About 5/32th" of give when I step in the middle. Some of that might be hinging around the glue at the framing. If so it will improve when I glass the top. Glass on top will be in tension at the frames.
I was thinking about drilling holes to fill with foam or connect the high density foam to the underside of the hull, but I think I'll use plan B and put a chilly bin (icebox) there. I have block foam left over for it, so this will be a good use. I'll put it right in the middle of the panel, up against the motorwell bulkhead. Room to fish either side, strong enough to sit or stand on. Glassed into the sole it will act as very substantial framing. I was never keen to spend $500 or more on a commercial one big enough for a Hapuka (groper) or kingfish (Amberjack).
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
What’s the span between the stringers? 30” or so? Also, 400 gram is equivalent to our 12oz?
It would take a fair amount of glass to stiffen 9mm spanning that width, I believe, but the chilly box would give it a lot of rigidity from the top.
On the forward sections, will it be possible to bring the edges of the foam dams up to the top of frames/stringers? They’ll act as joists and help support the floor over wide spans.
I’m jealous we don’t have blue expanding foam stateside.
It would take a fair amount of glass to stiffen 9mm spanning that width, I believe, but the chilly box would give it a lot of rigidity from the top.
On the forward sections, will it be possible to bring the edges of the foam dams up to the top of frames/stringers? They’ll act as joists and help support the floor over wide spans.
I’m jealous we don’t have blue expanding foam stateside.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Hi Dan. Span is about 32" OC, or 30" from the inside points. This is a bit much for 9mm (3/8th) ply to span, even with glass under it seems. I am definitely going to bring that block foam to the sole in the forward sections. That will leave a span of 16".
In the meantime glass over will help a bit, and strength shouldn't be an issue.
In the meantime glass over will help a bit, and strength shouldn't be an issue.
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