1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
Like Fallguy said three layers of 1700 is over kill. I like to use two layers so I can stager the joints. But if the deck material is pretty stiff stuff one layer of 1700 would be enough. I might take a scrap and lay one layer on it and then do some testing. Drop heavy weights on it to see if it dents and any other test you can think of.
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
I made a good bit of progress today. I got out there early and filled in around the floor to hull joint and all the cracks where the floor boards didn’t fit exact. After that cured I was able to sand it all pretty fair and get a layer of 1700 over it. Going to get to sanding on it tomorrow after work. I have some 6 inch 12 oz and I’ve thought about staggering those for the floor to hull joint. I could cut some 17 oz tapes like I’ve been doing for everything else but it would be a lot easier to be able to roll out the 12 oz.
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
Two 12 oz tapes is plenty.
Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
Agree, stagger them 2x4 and 4x2.
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
I did go with the 2 6 inch tapes staggered. Working with that roll of 12 oz tape was a dream compared to using my own cut out tapes of 1700. I have the floor sanded and fair other than a few small spots. The floor is taped in and I have started to make the hull stiffeners that run from the floor up the hull sides. I am making these out of the leftover 1.5 inch coosa from the transom.
I was planning on one layer of 1700 over the stiffeners and then 2 6 inch 12 oz tapes staggered for them as well. I am going to build a box around the fuel fill hoses off of the one beside them. Trying to decide if it will be easier to try to put a layer of glass on them outside of the boat or wait until I have them glued in. Not sure the best way to be able to glass them outside the boat. I thought of screwing them to a board from the bottom upright to be able to wrap them. It would probably be easier to do when I take the cap off but I was thinking I would like to at least have them glued in before I flip the hull to finish the bottom. The only way I can flip it is to get it off the trailer on the ground and then roll it over. I also couldn't come up with a good way to hold them in place while gluing them in so I was thinking of running a small screw or 2 from the outside of the boat into the stiffeners to hold them in place and then fill the holes once the screws are removed.
Once I get the stiffeners figured out it will be time to flip it back over and finish the bottom, seal and then vc performance epoxy. I am planning on removing the cap after it is back on the trailer to be able to run a piece of coosa across the front for anchor and life jacket storage and to paint the rest of the boat before putting the cap back on.
I was planning on one layer of 1700 over the stiffeners and then 2 6 inch 12 oz tapes staggered for them as well. I am going to build a box around the fuel fill hoses off of the one beside them. Trying to decide if it will be easier to try to put a layer of glass on them outside of the boat or wait until I have them glued in. Not sure the best way to be able to glass them outside the boat. I thought of screwing them to a board from the bottom upright to be able to wrap them. It would probably be easier to do when I take the cap off but I was thinking I would like to at least have them glued in before I flip the hull to finish the bottom. The only way I can flip it is to get it off the trailer on the ground and then roll it over. I also couldn't come up with a good way to hold them in place while gluing them in so I was thinking of running a small screw or 2 from the outside of the boat into the stiffeners to hold them in place and then fill the holes once the screws are removed.
Once I get the stiffeners figured out it will be time to flip it back over and finish the bottom, seal and then vc performance epoxy. I am planning on removing the cap after it is back on the trailer to be able to run a piece of coosa across the front for anchor and life jacket storage and to paint the rest of the boat before putting the cap back on.
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
For your fuel enclosures, they can be made from just about anything, but 1/2" high density core like coosa would take a foot shot. Or some plywood with glass.
Cut the pieces out with cardboard first, then make them on a table with the real core size adjusted to fit on the corner.
Epoxy bonding cleats on the hull and around the bottom two sides.
Then put the Glassed pieces back on the boat. You can temp screw the two pieces to the cleats or you can make the thing removable for access. To make it removable; just bond the two pieces to each other in the boat. Then unscrew and finish it on the table with seam tape 6 oz..
For temporary cover, use 1/16" butyl. Or to permanent, jist bed it in thixkened resin.
Cut the pieces out with cardboard first, then make them on a table with the real core size adjusted to fit on the corner.
Epoxy bonding cleats on the hull and around the bottom two sides.
Then put the Glassed pieces back on the boat. You can temp screw the two pieces to the cleats or you can make the thing removable for access. To make it removable; just bond the two pieces to each other in the boat. Then unscrew and finish it on the table with seam tape 6 oz..
For temporary cover, use 1/16" butyl. Or to permanent, jist bed it in thixkened resin.
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
By the way, your work looks superb.
These cleats are perm bonded. Use tape or hot glue to make sure they don't move while curing. Notice the cleat would keep water from getting in as well, so make them about 1" high. And you can cut angles in the sole cleat facing side bottom. Jist use an angle finder..
These cleats are perm bonded. Use tape or hot glue to make sure they don't move while curing. Notice the cleat would keep water from getting in as well, so make them about 1" high. And you can cut angles in the sole cleat facing side bottom. Jist use an angle finder..
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
If you recess the enclosure behind the gunwhale coaming; you won't need to fair it and it'll look more pro, so make sure the cleats are back far enough to allow that as well.
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
Thanks for the compliments. So far I am happy and confident in all the work, especially with this being my first build.
I have gotten a layer of 1700 on all the stiffeners and hope to have them glued in tonight and tabbed in tomorrow. Then it will be time to start on the bottom. I was planning on using interprotect 2000e for the barrier coat and then using VC performance epoxy on the bottom. The boat will be trailered and and I liked the hard slick characteristics of the VC but I have been rethinking that because of it being white. The rest of the boat is going to be Parker bay grey and I would be happier in the end with the bottom being grey or black. I was rethinking this when I walked behind the shop the other day and saw my boat blind, I imagined sitting in the river or sound with the blind popped up and it being choppy and the white bottom flashing and showing as the boat rides the waves. Any other suggestions for a good paint or coating for the bottom? I don’t want anti fouling that I have to repaint and would like something that will hold up. The boat will be pulled up on the marsh and sand bars a lot and I know the Parker paint will not hold up well on the bottom. I have a friend that painted his whole boat with the Parker paint and has to paint the bottom after every season from the trailer bunks
I have gotten a layer of 1700 on all the stiffeners and hope to have them glued in tonight and tabbed in tomorrow. Then it will be time to start on the bottom. I was planning on using interprotect 2000e for the barrier coat and then using VC performance epoxy on the bottom. The boat will be trailered and and I liked the hard slick characteristics of the VC but I have been rethinking that because of it being white. The rest of the boat is going to be Parker bay grey and I would be happier in the end with the bottom being grey or black. I was rethinking this when I walked behind the shop the other day and saw my boat blind, I imagined sitting in the river or sound with the blind popped up and it being choppy and the white bottom flashing and showing as the boat rides the waves. Any other suggestions for a good paint or coating for the bottom? I don’t want anti fouling that I have to repaint and would like something that will hold up. The boat will be pulled up on the marsh and sand bars a lot and I know the Parker paint will not hold up well on the bottom. I have a friend that painted his whole boat with the Parker paint and has to paint the bottom after every season from the trailer bunks
Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
A lot of guys use a graphite coating on the bottom of there boat. it is nearly indestructible. A 25-33% graphite to epoxy ratio is a good mix is best by volume. You can find in the store. https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/prod ... nd-1-2-qt/ Three to four coats are good. I have it on my bottom and tuse he sand islands are not a problems are not a problem for it. Grass marshes would also not be a problem for it. Guys use in oyster shell water also and do not seem to have a problem that I have heard of.
So hope that helps.
Tom
So hope that helps.
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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