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Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 9:38 am
by Michael.Schwind
Hi Everyone,

I figured it was time to share some photos of my boat build. Thanks to all who have answered my questions and helped me get this far!

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... FoUzVtLVp3

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 9:46 am
by Dougster
Nice! I like mine plenty and put a Minn Kota riptide with spotlock on the nose and a propane Tohatsu 5hp on the stern. I didn't build a seat into it and wish I had. What do you plan on power?

Dougster

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 9:51 am
by Michael.Schwind
My plan is an 8hp Tohatsu. Hopefully that's not too much power for this little boat.

https://www.tohatsu.com/marine/int/outboards/MFS8B.html

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 9:54 am
by Dougster
No I think that'll be great. My 5 hp just runs me at 12mph or so. You'll do better. I carry a double paddle too and can maneuver and poke along with that as well.

Dougster

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 9:55 am
by Jeff
I don't think 8HP is going to be too much power!!! Jeff

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 10:03 am
by Michael.Schwind
I have a question for you guys. After I added the foam, the port side of my boat warped and now I don't have that nice smooth curve. You can see it well in the second to last photo in my album. Do you think I will be able to straighten that out with some gunwales?

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 12:00 pm
by Dougster
Well that's a bummer. I would clamp the rub rail on first to see if that takes care of it. I suspect it will. If not I might cut out a wedge of foam to relieve the pressure. First would be to clamp on the rail though.

Dougster

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2020 1:11 pm
by BB Sig
I had to cut wedges into the foam as Dougster said to do. You are supposed to add the rubrail prior to foaming. The note in the FS13 stated it was optional so I waited. The note for the FS13 was supposed to be altered. Not sure what the SK14 stated to do. Make sure you wait until the rubrails are on before filling in the foam wedges that were removed!

After cutting wedges and gluing rubrails, it straightened up a lot but will require a lot of fairing. Mine will be a 20' beauty! :lol:

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 8:41 am
by Michael.Schwind
BB Sig wrote: Mon Jun 01, 2020 1:11 pm I had to cut wedges into the foam as Dougster said to do. You are supposed to add the rubrail prior to foaming. The note in the FS13 stated it was optional so I waited. The note for the FS13 was supposed to be altered. Not sure what the SK14 stated to do. Make sure you wait until the rubrails are on before filling in the foam wedges that were removed!

After cutting wedges and gluing rubrails, it straightened up a lot but will require a lot of fairing. Mine will be a 20' beauty! :lol:
Did you cut your wedges at the point where the frames meet the side panels, on either side of the frame? After looking at the boat yesterday, I am having a hard time figuring out where the wedges need to be cut in order to relieve the pressure.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 8:42 am
by Michael.Schwind
Dougster wrote: Mon Jun 01, 2020 12:00 pm Well that's a bummer. I would clamp the rub rail on first to see if that takes care of it. I suspect it will. If not I might cut out a wedge of foam to relieve the pressure. First would be to clamp on the rail though.

Dougster
Dougster,

What type of wood did you use for your rub rail? I was thinking about using Cypress. What are your thoughts on that?

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 9:12 am
by BB Sig
Michael.Schwind wrote: Tue Jun 02, 2020 8:41 am
BB Sig wrote: Mon Jun 01, 2020 1:11 pm I had to cut wedges into the foam as Dougster said to do. You are supposed to add the rubrail prior to foaming. The note in the FS13 stated it was optional so I waited. The note for the FS13 was supposed to be altered. Not sure what the SK14 stated to do. Make sure you wait until the rubrails are on before filling in the foam wedges that were removed!

After cutting wedges and gluing rubrails, it straightened up a lot but will require a lot of fairing. Mine will be a 20' beauty! :lol:
Did you cut your wedges at the point where the frames meet the side panels, on either side of the frame? After looking at the boat yesterday, I am having a hard time figuring out where the wedges need to be cut in order to relieve the pressure.
I cut wedges along the inside of the hull. Post a photo of the area that you have concerns.

Edited to add:

I see the area on my phone. My computer wouldn't go to the link. Yes, cut the foam wedges on the inside of the hull past the warped area. Glue rubrails and inwales. The inwale is what fixed mine the most...

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 9:25 am
by Michael.Schwind
This photo shows it fairly well. It is the point where the frames are tangent to the hull. You can see the top edge of the hull is no longer a smooth curve.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 9:26 am
by Dougster
I just used SYP (pine) from the box store (HD) for my rub rail. It's got a coat or two of epoxy then three coats of Cetol. I don't know about Cypress, but bet it would be nice

Dougster

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 10:43 am
by BB Sig
It appears the foam shrunk. Mine did the same thing. The wedge lets the plywood ease back but you can use 2x's to push the hull back into shape after you cut the wedges. After a week of stretching I glued rubrails and inwales. The inwale helped the most. I used the premium SYP with no knots. :)

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2020 8:58 pm
by seaslug
Your boat looks great. I've found that the Poplar from the big box stores is the nicest wood they have to work with, but the color might not be too attractive if you put a clear finish. It's harder than the pine, much harder than Cedar, and probably equal to Cypress. I use Maple if I've got it because it's extremely hard. Looks to me the sides will be no problem and should take a nice curve by clamping the rub rail. I had a 6 hp Merc on mine and hit 16 mph wide open, and the guy I sold it to put a 20 hp and loves it. Sounds a bit scary to me. Mike

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 10:16 am
by Michael.Schwind
Thanks for the advice, everyone. I bought some SYP furring strips yesterday that I plan on using for the rub rails. I clamped them on to see if it would take care of the edge, and it did beautifully.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Severe-Weather ... 1000167831

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 10:23 am
by Michael.Schwind
seaslug wrote: Tue Jun 02, 2020 8:58 pm Your boat looks great. I've found that the Poplar from the big box stores is the nicest wood they have to work with, but the color might not be too attractive if you put a clear finish. It's harder than the pine, much harder than Cedar, and probably equal to Cypress. I use Maple if I've got it because it's extremely hard. Looks to me the sides will be no problem and should take a nice curve by clamping the rub rail. I had a 6 hp Merc on mine and hit 16 mph wide open, and the guy I sold it to put a 20 hp and loves it. Sounds a bit scary to me. Mike
Thanks for the advice! The side did take a nice curve after I clamped the rub rail. That was a relief!

I wonder what kind of speed he is getting with a 20 hp. That sounds slightly terrifying to me.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 10:54 pm
by seaslug
Not a good idea using pressure treated lumber. I know it's inexpensive, but the rub rail is not where you want to cut corners. It probably does not take epoxy well, might even have some kind of adverse reaction due to whatever chemicals they use to treat it. Also it is not kiln dried and will have a very high moisture content. All the other woods available at Lowe's, pine, poplar, cedar, are kiln dried, and all work well with epoxy. Mike

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2020 1:08 am
by Gunho
Hey Mike
I just wanted to ask how are you draining the water from front hatch if any gets inside there or gets inside the boat

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 9:25 am
by Michael.Schwind
Gunho wrote: Sat Jun 27, 2020 1:08 am Hey Mike
I just wanted to ask how are you draining the water from front hatch if any gets inside there or gets inside the boat
I won't have access to the forward most compartments, so I plan on drilling a hole at the bottom of the forward most frame to allow any water that might get in there to drain to the compartment behind it, where I will have a hatch. From there I will just bail it out with a cup. I have no way of draining water from the compartments that have expanding foam in them. I have taken extra precaution to seal everything up very well, so I am hoping that I don't have much of an issue with that.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 11:05 am
by Dougster
I did the same thing on my SK14. I sponge out any water in bow compartment as needed. Only needed once after a big boat wake rolled over the nose, and then there was only about a cup of water in the compartment. The wave rolled right on through the boat and out the transom scupper with no problem other than wet feet.

Dougster

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 11:46 am
by Michael.Schwind
Dougster wrote: Mon Jul 06, 2020 11:05 am I did the same thing on my SK14. I sponge out any water in bow compartment as needed. Only needed once after a big boat wake rolled over the nose, and then there was only about a cup of water in the compartment. The wave rolled right on through the boat and out the transom scupper with no problem other than wet feet.

Dougster
That's good to hear! It is always windy on the Upper Laguna Madre, so I am happy to hear that the SK14 can handle a wave or two. I'll typically have mine in the back bays and flats, but will have to travel through some open water to get there occasionally.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Sat Jul 11, 2020 10:28 pm
by GuyP
Just picked up late that you’re using southern yellow pine (SYP) for structural components. I’ve been using SYP in glued lap strakes for 10 years. I built a 16 footer from a designer’s plans from the UK. He was specifying mahogany for most everything not formed out of marine ply. I asked him if he could recommend a substitute. He said “it’s awful hard to find” but SYP has similar characteristics but just a little heavier. I happen to live in SYP heaven. Have fun building.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 9:09 am
by Michael.Schwind
I've made some progress on the build. I added some photos to my album which can be seen by clicking the link below. I got by rubrails installed and flipped the boat to start working on the bottom.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... FoUzVtLVp3

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 9:18 am
by Dougster
Looks good to me. You're gonna a love using it.

Dougster

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 4:09 pm
by Jeff
Nice, good photos!!! Jeff

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 11:47 am
by Michael.Schwind
I am finally ready to fiberglass the hull of my boat. The problem that I ran into is that the sheet of fiberglass is not as wide as my boat. However, it is long enough that I should have enough material to cut strips that are long enough to span the width of the boat, using several of them to cover the entire hull. Is that advisable, or should I buy more glass?

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 12:06 pm
by Browndog
It depends.

Depends on where the fabric overlaps occur and how you intend to finish the surface. Depends also on your desired level of finish along the spectrum of disposable work boat to family heirloom yacht quality?

In highly visible areas like a top deck with a bright finish then fabric overlaps and seams are not very desirable because they are harder to hide.

Inside of the hull under the sole where none will ever see it, no problem.

On the outside of the hull on the bottom not much of a problem, not very visible and most likely primed and painted but will require more sanding and fairing than a single piece of cloth with no seams or overlaps.

On the sides, more visible, but again most likely primed and painted, requiring more sanding and fairing effort but not that big of a deal.

Best wishes for continued success.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 12:30 pm
by VT_Jeff
Michael.Schwind wrote: Fri Aug 28, 2020 11:47 am I am finally ready to fiberglass the hull of my boat. The problem that I ran into is that the sheet of fiberglass is not as wide as my boat. However, it is long enough that I should have enough material to cut strips that are long enough to span the width of the boat, using several of them to cover the entire hull. Is that advisable, or should I buy more glass?
If you can get a single sheet of glass wide enough that you don't have any overlaps, it will save you a ton of fairing time. I made that mistake on my driftboat: I used the sheet of kevlar I had which was not quite big enough and patchworked pieces together. I could have saved a ton of fairing/sanding time and improved quality if I saved that sheet for another project and got the right sized piece for the bottom.

Edit: just realized you have already taped.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 12:47 pm
by Michael.Schwind
The amount of fairing time is what I am concerned about. I want this boat to have a quality finish, so it sounds like I should get a larger sheet of glass. I might get one the same size as what I already have and let them overlap at the keel. That would make the keel 3 layers thick (including the tape) and would hopefully improve the overall finish.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 2:50 pm
by VT_Jeff
That's how I did my FS14. It left a 6" fabric overlap on the transom and that took some time to fair, if I was going to do it again, I may eliminate the overlap on the transom, maybe leave a small gap instead to make the fairing a bit easier. If i was going to do it over again, I would probbaly not spend nearly the amount of time I I did fairing the bottom/keel, I would be happy to live with the tape lines on the keel/bottom for the amount of work it took given the attention it will get, which is about none.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 8:52 am
by Michael.Schwind
What are people's opinions on the position that the grab rail is mounted? I have seen some where the 45 degree support bars are toward the bow, and some that are mounted toward the stern. I like the look of it when it is mounted toward the stern, as it allows an ice chest to be set in front of it, facing forward. However, I worry that the support bars might be in the way and potentially cause a tripping hazard while driving. Any thoughts?

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 8:42 am
by Michael.Schwind
I made some progress this weekend by getting the hull glassed. I will add another coat or two of epoxy to fill in the weave, but overall I am very happy with how it turned out. I've added some photos to my album that can be seen by clicking the link.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... FoUzVtLVp3

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 9:10 am
by Jeff
Nice progress!!! Jeff

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:15 pm
by skobiela13
Great progress! Boat looks great. About to start on my own SK14.

Oh, and nice A&M flag! I'm actually located in the BCS area :P

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2020 11:00 am
by Michael.Schwind
skobiela13 wrote: Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:15 pm Great progress! Boat looks great. About to start on my own SK14.

Oh, and nice A&M flag! I'm actually located in the BCS area :P
Thank you! I haven't made much progress on it in the last month. I have been distracted building the world's fanciest chicken coop for my wife! But I am hoping to start fairing it this weekend.

Feel free to ask any questions about the SK14 build. I have learned a lot through the process, and there are people on here that have a ton of experience. There are several SK14 builds in Texas!

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2020 4:11 pm
by Michael.Schwind
I have a couple of questions regarding the skeg.

1. Is it even necessary? I will be powering this boat with an 8hp Tohatsu.
2. Should I install the skeg before I fair the hull, or after?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2020 5:22 pm
by BrianC
Michael.Schwind wrote: Tue Nov 10, 2020 4:11 pm I have a couple of questions regarding the skeg.

1. Is it even necessary? I will be powering this boat with an 8hp Tohatsu.
2. Should I install the skeg before I fair the hull, or after?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
At 8hp I'd definitely go with a skeg. Mine (w/ a 6hp) has a skeg and slides just a bit in corners, with even more power, you'll be slip slide'n away without one!

Since the fairing compound really isn't structural, most folks attach the skeg before fairing. You could do it after to make fairing easier but you'd want to scrap down to fiberglass along the keel before gluing it on. Don't forget to stop the keel about 1.5' from the transom.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 9:09 am
by Dougster
I agree with Brian. I have a little 1" skeg and don't slide much with 5 hp. I would fair first as I think it may be easier to scrape/sand off a bit of the final fairing where the skeg fits than to fair with the skeg in the way.

Dougster

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 4:58 pm
by Michael.Schwind
Thank y'all for the help! Sounds like a definitely need one.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2020 2:40 pm
by Michael.Schwind
Would it be ok to make the skeg out of southern yellow pine?

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Thu Nov 12, 2020 2:55 pm
by Reid
Wouldn't be my first choice but it will work. The skeg is almost sacrificial anyway. I like to use Poplar. Easy to find and it is a good, hard, consistent wood. Not expensive either.
-Reid

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 4:15 pm
by Michael.Schwind
Is it recommended to glass the deck even if it is going to be covered with Marine Mat?

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 4:51 pm
by Michael.Schwind
Slow and steady wins the race! I've made some progress since my last post. I glued the skeg on, which was made from poplar. I faired the bottom and sides of the boat and learned that fairing is tedious and time consuming, and I installed the bow eye. I also ordered my 8hp Tohatsu, my grab rail, and my primer and paint. See the link below for photo album.


https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... FoUzVtLVp3

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 9:02 pm
by TomW1
Michael.Schwind wrote: Thu Nov 12, 2020 2:40 pm Would it be ok to make the skeg out of southern yellow pine?
Yes, especially if you have some old growth SYP. It can be tough as steel. Just put a layer of 12oz biax over it and you will never have to replace iit. :lol: Poplar is a soft wood and you will have to replace it every couple of years.

Tom

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2021 7:52 am
by Jeff
Nice progress!!! Jeff

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue May 11, 2021 10:58 am
by Michael.Schwind
How important is it to fiberglass the deck? I am at the point in my build where I have to make that decision. I have seen some people have done it and others have not. Regardless of glass on the deck, I will have fairing compound, primer, paint, and Marine Mat. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue May 11, 2021 11:55 am
by jacquesmm
That fiberglass is not structural, you don't have to do it but it will protect the deck from abrasion and add some stiffness.
Note that there are two versions of the deck, one is a short foredeck. I would not glass the short deck. I see you do the long deck.
The long version deck is supported by a frame and longitudinal stiffeners but it flex a little bit if not fiber glassed. If you are on the heavy side, glass it.
If you fiberglass it, you will not need much fairing. There is no need to fair much under the non-skid. Deck glass does not add much weight, labor or cost.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue May 11, 2021 12:27 pm
by VT_Jeff
Michael.Schwind wrote: Tue May 11, 2021 10:58 am How important is it to fiberglass the deck? I am at the point in my build where I have to make that decision. I have seen some people have done it and others have not. Regardless of glass on the deck, I will have fairing compound, primer, paint, and Marine Mat. Thanks in advance for any advice!
I resisted but ultimately glassed it with 6oz and am glad I did. Not for the stiffness but for some confidence that a dropped tool etc won't immediately puncture the wood. Effortless glass job compared to most of the rest of the boat.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue May 11, 2021 3:17 pm
by Michael.Schwind
Thank y'all for the information! I have enough scrap fiberglass pieces left over to cover the deck, but it would be a patch work. Do you think that would be ok? I think I would be able to fair things up afterwards.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue May 11, 2021 3:59 pm
by VT_Jeff
Michael.Schwind wrote: Tue May 11, 2021 3:17 pm Thank y'all for the information! I have enough scrap fiberglass pieces left over to cover the deck, but it would be a patch work. Do you think that would be ok? I think I would be able to fair things up afterwards.
Mine was also patchwork, I left small gaps between pieces instead of overlapping to make fairing/ filling easier. Play with a few scraps first to get a sense of how the edges will act before you're commited.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2021 3:00 pm
by Michael.Schwind
What type of fasteners should I use to attach the grab rail to the deck? Are stainless steel wood screws the thing to use?

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2021 3:33 pm
by Reid
I would definitely recommend stainless. The key is find a way to keep any water from getting under the deck through the screw holes. You can overdrill holes, create an epoxy plug, and then drill into the plug. I would also use some 3M 4200 to seal around the screws. This will hopefully keep the plywood from getting wet.

-Reid

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2021 12:35 pm
by VT_Jeff
You can also glue blocks to the deck with bolts facing up, this avoids the need to penetrate the sole. Many people mount tanks this way.

Edit: my tank blocks were solid wood, but I would use plywood blocks for a grabrail for resistance to splitting.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2021 9:21 pm
by BB Sig
https://www.kennedytiedown.com/componen ... -deck-bolt

Kennedy has some nice hardware! I wonder if the above would work to make it removable...

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 11:59 am
by Michael.Schwind
Thanks for the advice everyone! I have added some photos to my build album below.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... FoUzVtLVp3

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 12:41 pm
by Jeff
Mike, great photos!! Really enjoyed seeing that young man involved with the build!! Jeff

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 4:19 pm
by Michael.Schwind
Jeff wrote: Thu Aug 05, 2021 12:41 pm Mike, great photos!! Really enjoyed seeing that young man involved with the build!! Jeff
It's been a lot of fun having him involved where he can be. It's mostly been him playing in the garage while I work. I enjoy taking pictures of him with the boat to show the amount of time that has passed since I started. In the beginning he was an infant, sleeping in the garage, and now he is a two year old that asks to go to the garage to see the boat!

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 6:47 pm
by Jeff
Nice Mike!!! He will really enjoy those photos in 25-30 years!!! Jeff

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2021 7:02 am
by wpstarling
VT_Jeff wrote: Wed Aug 04, 2021 12:35 pm You can also glue blocks to the deck with bolts facing up, this avoids the need to penetrate the sole. Many people mount tanks this way.

Edit: my tank blocks were solid wood, but I would use plywood blocks for a grabrail for resistance to splitting.
How do you get the hexagonal shape cutout of the wood?

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:26 am
by VT_Jeff
wpstarling wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 7:02 am
VT_Jeff wrote: Wed Aug 04, 2021 12:35 pm You can also glue blocks to the deck with bolts facing up, this avoids the need to penetrate the sole. Many people mount tanks this way.

Edit: my tank blocks were solid wood, but I would use plywood blocks for a grabrail for resistance to splitting.
How do you get the hexagonal shape cutout of the wood?
So, I'll preface by saying that you don't need to: you can oversize the holes for the hex heads, put the bolt in and then fill the gaps with slightly thickened epoxy, job done.

If you do want to hex-shape the holes, this is what I did, and only because I was jonesing to do some woodworking.

1. Use a forstner or paddle bit to drill the hex-head hole slightly undersized, to the depth needed to bury the head.
2. Through-Drill the bolt-shaft hole
3. Push the bolt through the hole and then tap it in so that the hex-head impresses the wood, giving you guidlines to chisel
4. Clean the flats with a chisel.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:40 am
by wpstarling
VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:26 am
wpstarling wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 7:02 am
VT_Jeff wrote: Wed Aug 04, 2021 12:35 pm You can also glue blocks to the deck with bolts facing up, this avoids the need to penetrate the sole. Many people mount tanks this way.

Edit: my tank blocks were solid wood, but I would use plywood blocks for a grabrail for resistance to splitting.
How do you get the hexagonal shape cutout of the wood?
So, I'll preface by saying that you don't need to: you can oversize the holes for the hex heads, put the bolt in and then fill the gaps with slightly thickened epoxy, job done.

If you do want to hex-shape the holes, this is what I did, and only because I was jonesing to do some woodworking.

1. Use a forstner or paddle bit to drill the hex-head hole slightly undersized, to the depth needed to bury the head.
2. Through-Drill the bolt-shaft hole
3. Push the bolt through the hole and then tap it in so that the hex-head impresses the wood, giving you guidlines to chisel
4. Clean the flats with a chisel.
Wow, that's a lot simpler than I was thinking. I was expecting some kind of router bit or something haha. Thanks for the tidbit. I'll be using this in the future! Sorry to threadjack for a minute there :)

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:46 am
by VT_Jeff
wpstarling wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:40 am
VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:26 am
wpstarling wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 7:02 am

How do you get the hexagonal shape cutout of the wood?
So, I'll preface by saying that you don't need to: you can oversize the holes for the hex heads, put the bolt in and then fill the gaps with slightly thickened epoxy, job done.

If you do want to hex-shape the holes, this is what I did, and only because I was jonesing to do some woodworking.

1. Use a forstner or paddle bit to drill the hex-head hole slightly undersized, to the depth needed to bury the head.
2. Through-Drill the bolt-shaft hole
3. Push the bolt through the hole and then tap it in so that the hex-head impresses the wood, giving you guidlines to chisel
4. Clean the flats with a chisel.
Wow, that's a lot simpler than I was thinking. I was expecting some kind of router bit or something haha. Thanks for the tidbit. I'll be using this in the future! Sorry to threadjack for a minute there :)
No apology necessary, not my thread! :lol:

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2021 3:26 pm
by Michael.Schwind
VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:46 am
wpstarling wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:40 am
VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:26 am

So, I'll preface by saying that you don't need to: you can oversize the holes for the hex heads, put the bolt in and then fill the gaps with slightly thickened epoxy, job done.

If you do want to hex-shape the holes, this is what I did, and only because I was jonesing to do some woodworking.

1. Use a forstner or paddle bit to drill the hex-head hole slightly undersized, to the depth needed to bury the head.
2. Through-Drill the bolt-shaft hole
3. Push the bolt through the hole and then tap it in so that the hex-head impresses the wood, giving you guidlines to chisel
4. Clean the flats with a chisel.
Wow, that's a lot simpler than I was thinking. I was expecting some kind of router bit or something haha. Thanks for the tidbit. I'll be using this in the future! Sorry to threadjack for a minute there :)
No apology necessary, not my thread! :lol:
No apology needed! I'm glad that you asked the question. I was wondering the same thing.

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2021 8:57 am
by Michael.Schwind
Well I finally finished my skiff. Thank you to everyone on here for all of the advice, encouragement, and kind words. Below is the link to my build album. I'll be sure to add more photos of the first launch.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MUe2eTJvMh9mySHS7

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2021 10:08 am
by Dougster
Looks just great, looking forward to pics of the launch. Love the decking.

Dougster

Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2021 11:26 am
by Jeff
Nice work!! Congrats!! Jeff