FS-17 Again

[jacquesmm]

Thanks everybody, you answered all questions or almost.

The USCG calculations give max. 40 HP for tiller steering. You can use more if you want, it is not illegal but why if you are happy with a 30? That boat will be fine with a 25 HP anyway.

[Rover1]

Thanks Jaques,
Not tied into any HP yet. May yet do remote steering even on a smaller HP outboard.
Let me start the boat things can change overnight.
Rover1

[Rover1]

Spoke with Jeff, Kit and supplies are now ordered!
Picking up Parts for strong back today.
the honey do list may be suffering in the near future.
Yard work is progressing slowly and needs top be complete before I start the boat work.
That's what happens when you are in agony for 4-5 years. Basement also needs cleaning.
Been checking motor prices. They have gone up in the last 10 years.
Rover1

[Jeff]

Rover1, Yes, your order will ship today!! Thank you for the business!!! And YES, motors have increased very much in the last 10 years!! Jeff

[Rover1]

Marine Ball valve, verry expensive vs ball valve from Hardware store.
I was pricing some of the expected cost today and nearly dropped to the floor at the price for a simple ball valve. There was about a $40 dollar difference from the family business to the Marine store. Never understood why the stuff titled "Marine should be so different in price.
The boat kit is on it's way! I actually have several people volunteering to help build the boat, based on ability to use it once done of course.
Not really expecting it to be done by the end of the season but can always hope.......
Rover1

[Fuzz]

The hardware store valve is brass. It will be something like 40% zink that will leach out when exposed to saltwater. True marine valves are made with bronze. I use Jamestown for lots of my bronze stuff.

[Jaysen]

I was pricing some of the expected cost today and nearly dropped to the floor at the price for a simple ball valve. There was about a $40 dollar difference from the family business to the Marine store. Never understood why the stuff titled "Marine should be so different in price.

I'm with you. But I did some digging for a product I want to develop. Here is what is driving the prices:
1. Higher grade metal for proper "corrosion resistance". If you see a cheap marine product ripple check the steel rating.
2. Certification with multiple agencies for use of "marine". This is required if you are SELLING a product for use in a particular manner in specific conditions.
3 Insurance. Once you are selling a product as "fit for service" you must cary insurance. That will require you to track lots built, where lots were sent, and who purchased units (if serializable).

The product I'm working had had a base cost of $80 for me to manufacture. Once I added the above at the minimum level I was over $400 per unit for first 10k units. By the time I had it down to realistic units sold of $1k my price per unit was over $5k. The real cost is in the fed and legal arena.

[Rover1]

Fuzz I will use Jamestown for my stuff. Familiar with them.

Jaysen
Never would have believed that regulation could cost that amount of money!!!!
I will use the appropriate marine components for bait well. Unbelievable!!
Rover1

[Rover1]

After reading a bit over the past years I thought The Marelon parts would be a good compromise for price and use. Metal has problems I have never encounters on a trailered boat, namely corrosion. So time to tech up a bit. What are the threads of these nylon composites sealed with?
Boat kit due to arrive Friday, this week. What service!
Rover1

[Fuzz]

I like the bronze for stuff below the waterline but have no problem with plastic above it.