new build GT Cruiser 23

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LaChefels
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by LaChefels »

So I can’t see any air pockets.
How does it look otherwise ?
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fallguy1000
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by fallguy1000 »

Looks good. Might be a little open on the ends, but that'll get sanded off. Keep sanding until the loose stuff is gone. No reason to keep air pockets.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

LaChefels
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by LaChefels »

So I put on 2 layers of 6” fiberglass on the stern transom seams. I have a couple of places where I didn’t get the air out and or get good adhesion. I know this must be redone.
My question is do
I have to sand off all of the fiberglass or just the area that didn’t adhere well?

fallguy1000
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by fallguy1000 »

LaChefels wrote: Tue Aug 23, 2022 4:19 pm So I put on 2 layers of 6” fiberglass on the stern transom seams. I have a couple of places where I didn’t get the air out and or get good adhesion. I know this must be redone.
My question is do
I have to sand off all of the fiberglass or just the area that didn’t adhere well?
Pictures?

Generally, remove adhesion failures and keep the rest.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

LaChefels
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by LaChefels »

Pictures and a video coming
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Fuzz
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by Fuzz »

I hate to say this but you have a bit of a problem in the chine area. Either you do not have a large enough radius at the chine or the bottom protruded past the bottom. You need to grind off the glass and redo things in that area. not the end of the world and you are not the first one to have this problem :wink:

fallguy1000
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by fallguy1000 »

Yeah. That is a redo.

David has explained it well. I'll add one more possibility.

But first, to reiterate Fuzz, you cannot get glass to create a fair edge. If the top is overhanging the side; the glass will void. If the radius is too sharp; the glass will work to create the radius.

Making sure overhangs are non-existent is step one, Making sure radiuses are sufficient is step two. A 3/8" radius is the minimum for an amateur. A pro laminator can make a 1/4" work.

See my finger sketches for examples of the first two.

A third possibility is improper consolidation.

There are a few ways to create a bubble on tabbing seams during consolidation.

All fin roller work needs to be away from the corner for outside corners. So, if you rolled the top edge toward you or sideways; and the side edge up; you will create that void on a perfectly designed substrate. The same thing can happen on an inside corner if you pull the fin roller away from the joint. Easy to go back and forth, but roller in and up is proper. For outside corner, roller out and up only.

So, all fin roller work must be in toward inside corners, and out on outside corners. This is a amateur error and good that is happened now before you did the whole boat this way.

What is a 3/8" radius? If you mark out a 3/4" hole with a large x, take a drill bit and cut it, then leave just the line and cut off the thing twice; you'd have a radius gauge.

Hopefully my fairing tool didn't mess you up. You also cannot leave any humps from the fairing tool edge work or this could be a 4th cause.

Try to understand the cause of the error first. Grind that off with a sander and 40 grit paper.

For a pro tip. If you are laminating and find an area that is really hard to get the glass to lay down, like a 3 plane corner. Keep a little bit of peelply around, for the GT23, maybe like 3-5 yards. Peelply leaves you a bit blind to microbubbles, but you can lay masking tape over a small piece of it all the way to something dry and get the corner to cooperate.

Top drawing is a non-fair surface overhang; glass cannot fix it. Lower drawing is poor radius, glass will create its own radius without peelply or even with it on a too sharp corner.
CD814BB1-9A87-406B-ABCD-E68547B01DB8.png
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

LaChefels
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by LaChefels »

Thanks guys. I figured lots of sanding was in my future. Apply and learn. It's part of the process.
I'll keep you posted. Hope all of you are doing well.
Dan, did you take the boat out?

LaChefels
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by LaChefels »

One more question,
Is a random orbital sander my best bet for removing these 2 layers of fiberglass or is a belt sander a better choice? I realize belt sanders can remove a bunch of material .

fallguy1000
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Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by fallguy1000 »

I crawled under and around the boat and did 5 coats of paint on each hull.

Waiting for insurance..

Belt sanders are really almost never used in boat building. A small handheld mini belt sander can work. I really am not a fan of ros. I use festool rts400.

You will be doing quite a bit of sanding so you need some tools and sanding papers. You'll need to decide.

A ros tends to throw fiberglass crap all over. The rts has suction and is less aggressive and I used it for a lot
Of fairing work because I had good control over what it was removing.

You'll need a good sander. ROS can work, but I don't like them much..
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

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