Cameron's FS14LS+5%

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bamaguy0
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

My Google-Fu is strong!

And a little bit of trial and error... :lol:

I'm willing to help out where I can. If there's anything that anyone would like more detail on I can try to make a more instructional post.

bamaguy0
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

Attached the waterproof box to some starboard and in the process of gluing the starboard to that leg of the deck support.

9033

I just need to run by West Marine and pick up a couple more electrical connectors and I'll have everything wired up shortly after.

Finally ordered and received a fuel level sending unit so I can outfit my tank finally. Need to pick up some vent hose so I might do that while at West Marine as well. I got some three ways, a schrader valve, and a gauge to do a leak check on the tank once I install all the fittings and sending unit.

I think this weekend is going to be where I temp mount the tilt n trim with the engine and all the bracketry and make sure I can route the control cables how I expect to. It's a small boat with tight quarters. Plus I packed it with gadgets and gizmos. This has been my biggest fear. I'll use the time to figure out where they'll come out of the deck and head toward the motor as well.

Mojosmantra
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by Mojosmantra »

bamaguy0 wrote: Wed Oct 20, 2021 8:30 pm My Google-Fu is strong!

And a little bit of trial and error... :lol:

I'm willing to help out where I can. If there's anything that anyone would like more detail on I can try to make a more instructional post.
Since you offered...my electrical is really simple and I've sized all my wiring, which ends up being mostly in the 16 -14 AWG range. Pretty standard stuff. There's only one wire that I'm stuck on and am probably overthinking. I'm using a battery switch (Blue Sea 6006) which is recommended, but optional, to control my fuse panel (Blue Sea 4304) and house loads. These include the bilge pump, livewell pump, nav and anchor lights. It's really just a master power switch for me and the engine and bilge pump will bypass it. Conservatively, that's a max 10 amp draw. However, the switch specs call for a 4/0 8O 8O 8O 8O wire "to meet ratings". I'm assuming that this is for when you're using it to control the engine starter, which I am not. Even then - holy crap that's a big wire :help: . Anyway, wiring tables would say I only need 14 - 12 AWG. Would you agree with that - or is there something about battery switches that I don't know?

bamaguy0
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

So the statement of 4/0 to meet ratings just means that if you were to max out the amperage of the switch you'd need to be using 4/0. You can size the cable going from the batt to the switch appropriately for the expected loads. I would recommend going up just a little bit to account for growth. When you run wires at their current limit, they get warm, have a higher resistance, get warmer, have a higher resistance, etc until a fire starts. The tables like the one below consider that, but for supply lines I think it's best to step up a little bit more than you need.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resourc ... hartlg.jpg

In my case, I have 6AWG running from each batt to the switch and swirch to fuse block. I don't plan on trying to use my switch to carry cranking loads. I only wanted it to be able to power house loads with my trolling motor batt in case something happened with my house/cranking batt.

Don't forget to put a fuse or breaker on the line going from the battery to switch also. Usually around the limit of the size cable you use or just below.

TomW1
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by TomW1 »

Cameron, while the tables only say that I would go higher. You definitely don't need to ogo to 4/0, but I would go to a 10 or 8 AWG in case you ever add any thing. What about a trolling motor in the future, any thoughts of adding one? Thein you will need the 4/0 as most are 6 or 8 guage.
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

bamaguy0
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

I am wiring in a trolling motor, but it won't be run thru the main switch. It's getting it's own 8AWG branch with breaker straight off the trolling motor batt in the front locker area.

If trolling motor batt dies then I just won't have one. Didn't want the hassle of trying to make the house power it just in case.

If I were, I'd agree due to the lengths...I'd probably be in the 2AWG, maybe 0AWG range.

Mojosmantra
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by Mojosmantra »

Good discussion - helpful to me. I am also wiring in a trolling motor (6 AWG) but it's straight to the battery with a dedicated 60 amp breaker.

I hear ya on the bigger wire for future loads. I suppose that would also apply to the terminal wire for the ground bus bar?

bamaguy0
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

Yeah you want your ground wire size to match.

In my system I have 2 remote bus bars. One in the front locker, one in the aft. They're both tied to the local battery with 6AWG cable and then also have a 6AWG cable running from the remote bus bars to the fuse block's ground bar at the console.

Local load grounds, like hatch lights or nav lights terminate at the local bus bars instead of having to go back to the fuse block's ground bar.

bamaguy0
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

Temp mounted the Tilt and Trim Bracket to hang the motor tomorrow so I thought I'd check out my wireless controller.

https://youtu.be/iI2-L4JkWb8

Mojosmantra
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by Mojosmantra »

Sweet!

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