Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Sun Oct 25, 2020 8:14 pm**

Hey everyone. Thought I would get my build thread started. I have a thread that I was using to ask questions and get started, but now that the build is going, I figure it fitting to start one in the Builder Progress Forum.

Here the link to my pre-planning thread: https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=65270

A recap of the build so far:
Order placed for starter materials on 9/27. Built the strongback and cut the bow mold and Mold C out of some 1/2 plywood I had laying around the week leading up to driving to Ft. Pierce to pickup materials.

Picked up my order on 10/2. On the way home from BBC, I actually met up with a FB Marketplace seller and purchased a Tohatsu 25HP Short Shaft in pretty good shape. More on that later.

I had to travel for work the following week, so aside from getting the motor stand built, nothing really happened. I got to work as soon as I returned, though. Since I'm building this in a 2 car garage, I had to perform the next sequence a little different than what I think others had done. With my strong back in one "bay" and a few 2x4's as sacrificial cutting boards in the other, I laid out the panels on the strongback and cut them on the floor. By 10/19 I was done with cutting the hull panels, frames, transom, and stringers. The Frames were mounted onto the strongback at this point.

Since then, I've spliced the stringers with Butt Blocks.

This weekend, I've spliced the side panels with fiberglass tape and bonded the 2 transom panels.

Then just last night, I started the bottom panels splice.

This afternoon, I flipped the panels and have applied the fiberglass tape to the other side and mounted the transom.

She's starting to take shape!

Posted: **Sun Oct 25, 2020 8:46 pm**

A little on the motor. The motor cover is from a Nissan, but the model number is most definitely a Tohatsu. Circa 1996. I REALLY wanted to snag a 2 stroke Yamaha, but I couldn't beat the price.

It's currently rigged as a poor man's tiller. Previous owner had fabricated a steering handle out of some angle aluminum and a flat bar with a remote throttle control. He was just reaching over the to the gear lever on the side to shift fwd and reverse. I plan to rig it properly for remote control. I want to build a small side console for the boat. I'm going to use this image as inspiration. I've already purchased a 2nd hand Nissan Remote Throttle control for it.

The motor is in pretty good shape for it's age. Good compression. The previous owner gave it a cheap rattle can spray job. Because it's main intended use is in saltwater, I want to make sure the motor is as protected as possible so over the course of the build process, I plan on stripping it down and recoating, including with the zinc primer. I'll also be giving it a once over to make sure everything is in tip-top shape. Carb rebuild, Water Pump rebuild, and possibly a lower unit seal replacement are on the list, just to be safe.

Posted: **Sun Oct 25, 2020 8:48 pm**

Looking good!

Posted: **Tue Oct 27, 2020 1:10 pm**

Coming along great Cameron! I'm quite keen to see how your side console works out, it's something I consider often. Once concern I had was the load(me) on one side when alone in such small boat and if it was going to make the boat list/lean/pull. I guess a few batteries on the other side could balance it out, depending on how many batteries you weigh.

I'm a novice builder and can't offer a lot of expertise but I'll tell you a few of my biggest blunders so far with my FS14LS:

1. After stitching and before gluing the side panels, ensure that they are in contact with the frames all the way 'down" to the deck(the boat being upside down). I failed to do this and ended up with a ton of splay.

2. After glassing the bottom, let it cure completely and then knock down all the stitching before starting to fair. This would have saved me a lot of time and material.

Enjoy!

Jeff

Posted: **Tue Oct 27, 2020 1:21 pm**

Nice progress bamaguy0!! Look forward to hearing about your motor as I did not know Nissan had built outboard motors!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Oct 27, 2020 9:20 pm**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Tue Oct 27, 2020 1:10 pm Coming along great Cameron! I'm quite keen to see how your side console works out, it's something I consider often. Once concern I had was the load(me) on one side when alone in such small boat and if it was going to make the boat list/lean/pull. I guess a few batteries on the other side could balance it out, depending on how many batteries you weigh.

I'm a novice builder and can't offer a lot of expertise but I'll tell you a few of my biggest blunders so far with my FS14LS:

1. After stitching and before gluing the side panels, ensure that they are in contact with the frames all the way 'down" to the deck(the boat being upside down). I failed to do this and ended up with a ton of splay.

2. After glassing the bottom, let it cure completely and then knock down all the stitching before starting to fair. This would have saved me a lot of time and material.

Enjoy!

Jeff

Good tips! I'll be sure to note that! I did notice the stitching in my panel splices and how big and rough it is. That would not be fun to fill and fair!

Regarding the side console, I plan to do some CG calulations when I'm laying out the locations of hatches and equipment. Here are a few things I've thought about so far.

I don't expect to go out alone very often, but when I do, I don't see shifting closer to the center that big of a deal. I had an old Ashcraft 14 ft boat a while back that had a side console but you kinda had to ride closer to center. It was about the same beam as well. I don't mind this. Just didn't want a full blown center console taking up floor space.

Live/baitwell. I would like to incorporate a baitwell into the boat. Maybe an ideal location is the port side aft deck. It would act as ballast when I am alone. I don't see making much more than a 5 gallon well though, so impact would be minimal.

I do intend on having a buddy or my wife ride next to me when they come along. That means I will need to plan on having as much weight forward as possible. Fuel tank and batteries will be under the forward deck and I do want to have a trolling motor so that will add some more weight forward.

If I'm way off base I'd love to be called out now before I get too far along, but I know I've seen similar sized boats with small side consoles, so I don't think I'm way out in left field on this one.

Posted: **Wed Oct 28, 2020 12:54 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 27, 2020 9:20 pm I do intend on having a buddy or my wife ride next to me when they come along.

Great point, I had not thought of that. it puts both of you fairly far back. I'm great at throwing out generally bad ideas, so, maybe move the console a little forward and use some fold-down/fold-forward jump seats to move both parties a little forward.

Posted: **Wed Oct 28, 2020 9:29 pm**

You'll probably want to move your poling platform so the weight of the person poling is directly above, or better yet, just forward of the outboard. I've never seen or poled a flats skiff with a platform so far aft, and it could cause the boat to squat. Just something to consider. Build on. Mike

Posted: **Thu Oct 29, 2020 11:09 am**

Appreciate that feedback Mike, I had suspected it may raise some eyebrows like that. My hope is to keep the rear deck usable for casting and have a platform as well, which is why I have it so far back, but I'll look to move it forward, if it's over the engine it shouldn't take up much working room.

Posted: **Thu Oct 29, 2020 4:47 pm**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Thu Oct 29, 2020 11:09 am Appreciate that feedback Mike, I had suspected it may raise some eyebrows like that. My hope is to keep the rear deck usable for casting and have a platform as well, which is why I have it so far back, but I'll look to move it forward, if it's over the engine it shouldn't take up much working room.

I agree with seaslug keep the platform over the motor. Tom

Posted: **Fri Oct 30, 2020 4:49 pm**

Thanks Tom, I'll happily listen to the experts on this!

Posted: **Fri Oct 30, 2020 5:16 pm**

Yeah, it's cool, but this is all good info that should be documented in your own build thread as well. That's a very cool looking poling platform. Are you making it all out of plywood?

Anyway, back to our regular scheduled programming.

I spent this week hanging panels and checking fits. Ran into an issue, but I was about to work through it and I think everything is all good.

Earlier in the week, I got the bottom panels on.

After I hung the side panels, contours weren't matching up. First I trimmed the bottom panel to get it to match up, but they still weren't sitting just right. Spent a couple nights messing around with it. Thinking on it some more after I wrapped up for the evening yesterday, I began to suspect that I cut the side panels too long and thus, too tall as well.

I had gotten most of the contour fixed at this point, but note how much longer the panel is at the bow.

Sure enough, my side panels were about 4 inches too long. Well I trimmed it to fit the bottom panel contour on the port side then matched it back up with the starboard side panel to trim and keep it symmetric. Because I initially trimmed the port bottom panel somewhat before I realized what was going on, I trimmed the starboard bottom panel to match as well.

After getting everything trimmed up to match each other and a little extra shaving here and there to keep gaps everywhere, I feel comfortable saying that she's ready to proceed on.

Now I'm taping up the inside seams to prevent excess epoxy buildup and hope to have the first joint glue application by the end of the weekend.

Posted: **Fri Oct 30, 2020 5:50 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 5:16 pm ... should be documented in your own build thread as well. That's a very cool looking poling platform. Are you making it all out of plywood?

No one reads my thread!

Plywood platform and solid wood risers. The idea is that the platform can slide in and out, theoretically.

Your results after trimming look great! Are you spacing the panels with something to create a gap? I Use framing nails every few inches

Posted: **Fri Oct 30, 2020 5:58 pm**

I used small pieces of PVC on the inside of the panels. Seemed to work out OK.

You've piqued my interest with this poling platform. Depending on how much plywood I use for my console, I might have enough to try something like that as well.

Posted: **Fri Oct 30, 2020 6:55 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 5:58 pm I used small pieces of PVC on the inside of the panels. Seemed to work out OK.

I did the same on the advice of some folks here, made the alignment much easier!

Posted: **Fri Oct 30, 2020 6:56 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 30, 2020 5:58 pm
You've piqued my interest with this poling platform. Depending on how much plywood I use for my console, I might have enough to try something like that as well.

I moved those photos to my thread, I'll let you know how it progresses!

Posted: **Fri Oct 30, 2020 9:14 pm**

I got the first application of epoxy in the seams tonight.

Airshow is in town tomorrow, so I won't be working on it.

Posted: **Fri Nov 06, 2020 6:30 pm**

Spent the week cleaning up the edge bonds. I sanded and rounded the edges then made another pass with some additional epoxy fillet to fill any large voids. Sanded the 2nd application this morning.

I prepared my pieces of 6" wide tape and went to work applying it on all the seams. I pre-darted the pieces where the corners would end up. That helped to align everything once I laid them out on the epoxy.

I didn't really see a particular order specified, just quantity so I did the 2 keel pieces first, then 1 transom, then the chine, then the 2nd transom. I thought this would help keep the transom corners under control and it seemed to have worked out OK.

After I applied all of the specified tape, I ended up applying an additional cap over the front of the bow after all the tape pieces were down. Seemed like it helped to keep the stackup of layers under control up there.

All in all, I'd say for my first fiberglass job everything worked out pretty well. We'll see how it cures up overnight. Plan will be to sand down the stitching and scuff up the cured epoxy then apply the wide cloth.

Hindsight being 20/20, if I'd prepared the cloth ahead of time, I would have been able to continue on to that part. This being my first big glass job I wasn't sure how long it would take, though.

Posted: **Fri Nov 06, 2020 6:49 pm**

Looking really nice, very neat! Check your recoat time before you sand, may not need to do any scuffing/sanding before you lay the cloth. The Silvertip gives you 72 hour re-coat time without sanding.

Posted: **Fri Nov 06, 2020 6:54 pm**

Good call! I'll check on that for the MarinEpoxy. I'm going on an overnight trip tomorrow, but I'll be back Sunday. Might still have time.

Posted: **Fri Nov 06, 2020 7:12 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 06, 2020 6:54 pm Good call! I'll check on that for the MarinEpoxy. I'm going on an overnight trip tomorrow, but I'll be back Sunday. Might still have time.

Also, you can do a "hot coat" to extend your re-coat time: just brush on a thin coat of raw epoxy wherever the cloth will go to keep the surface "alive" for another cycle. Far, far, far better than waiting for cure and sanding!

Edit: and if you do end up needing to wait and sand, let it cure hard and use a good mask when you sand to avoid epoxy sensitivity, something you may want to read up on if you're not familiar.

Posted: **Fri Nov 06, 2020 7:26 pm**

Yeah, I have a Honeywell half mask respirator. I lucked out and found one in stock one night on Amazon. I think they're starting to become more available again.

Posted: **Fri Nov 06, 2020 9:06 pm**

Talk about peer pressure!

Just wet out the rest of the hull. Letting it get tacky then I'll be applying the cloth.

Posted: **Fri Nov 06, 2020 11:51 pm**

I think I might be a little crazy for making such a last minute decision to go ahead and apply the cloth at 9PM, but I think it turned out well.

Now to let it all cure, I'm gonna rest a bit, and I need to decide if I should go ahead and glass up the sides or not. I'm thinking the 6oz tape would be ok. Maybe to encapsulate the rubrails.

Posted: **Sat Nov 07, 2020 9:38 am**

After review this morning, I've noticed a few small bubbles formed on the chine. Ordered some 5ml syringes with needle(blunt) tips to work on injecting them to get them solid. I don't think any of them are worth grinding off and patching.

Wonder if MarinEpoxy thins with Acetone?

Posted: **Sat Nov 07, 2020 10:18 am**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 07, 2020 9:38 am After review this morning, I've noticed a few small bubbles formed on the chine. Ordered some 5ml syringes with needle(blunt) tips to work on injecting them to get them solid. I don't think any of them are worth grinding off and patching.

Wonder if MarinEpoxy thins with Acetone?

I would not do that, the acetone won't have any way to evaporate after you inject it. I'm pretty sure you shouldn't thin epoxy with solvent anyway, but especially in this case. You can thin it by warming it up, you'll just have to use small batches and move fast.

Posted: **Sat Nov 07, 2020 10:46 am**

joe2700 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 07, 2020 10:18 am
bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 07, 2020 9:38 am After review this morning, I've noticed a few small bubbles formed on the chine. Ordered some 5ml syringes with needle(blunt) tips to work on injecting them to get them solid. I don't think any of them are worth grinding off and patching.

Wonder if MarinEpoxy thins with Acetone?
I would not do that, the acetone won't have any way to evaporate after you inject it. I'm pretty sure you shouldn't thin epoxy with solvent anyway, but especially in this case. You can thin it by warming it up, you'll just have to use small batches and move fast.

I do believe most can be thinned with solvents a very small amount, but at a hit to strength. In this case I just need to fill the gap, but I do agree it would be difficult for the solvent to evaporate. Heating up the resin may be the trick...if it's even needed. Just thought that might help ensure the entire bubble is filled. If I do weep holes in the percieved extremity that should be good enough.

Posted: **Sat Nov 07, 2020 5:25 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 06, 2020 11:51 pm I think I might be a little crazy for making such a last minute decision to go ahead and apply the cloth at 9PM, but I think it turned out well.

Looks great from here, and, you just saved yourself a lot of sanding and got a better bond by taking the big bite, nice work!

Posted: **Sat Nov 07, 2020 5:27 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 06, 2020 9:06 pm Talk about peer pressure!

From total strangers no less. I could be a boat-bot!

Posted: **Sat Nov 07, 2020 9:55 pm**

Hey Jeff,

I'm starting to think ahead on making my own poling platform. Since you've already designed yours, I was wondering if you'd considered any other designs before going with what you did?

Kinda thinking about fiberglass tubes. Maybe buying the braided sleeving and making some curved molds to form them on.

Posted: **Sun Nov 08, 2020 9:56 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 07, 2020 9:55 pm Hey Jeff,

I'm starting to think ahead on making my own poling platform. Since you've already designed yours, I was wondering if you'd considered any other designs before going with what you did?

Kinda thinking about fiberglass tubes. Maybe buying the braided sleeving and making some curved molds to form them on.

I considered that(FG tubes) as well. Shine with BBC did that with an FS17LS, it came out very cool.

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=16831&start=330

Somewhere there is a thread dedicated to his platform but I'm not easily finding it.

His 2-legged platform was a big insipration for my design and I toyed with the idea of stealing it more closely. In the end, I went the way I did(with the design) because I like the asthetics of the swept back legs matching the angle of the console and the transom, I like the ability to easily remove the platform, and the fact that as designed, the transom takes none of the load. I also prefer to work in wood wherever possible, so fabricating FG legs/platform was not an attractive option to me. But, FG/CF tubes with pool noodle or some other forms offer limitless possibilities, def a smart direction to be looking!

I'd personally recommend getting Fusion 360 to toy with the design, it's free for personal use and there is a great user community to help get spun up. I just started with it myself but it has made decision making far easier! Dan Smullen recommended it to me so credit to him.

Posted: **Mon Nov 09, 2020 6:17 pm**

Oh yeah I use Fusion360 already. I have a 3d printer and make stuff from time to time using it. I use CatiaV5 for my day job so it's interesting jumping back and forth, but I've gotten the hang of it I think.

I've modeled the boat using F360. I made a version of the boat at nominal, plus 5%, plus 10% and even a slightly raised sheer version when I was trying to decide how far to go. I used it to do my math for me as once I laid all the panels out per the plans just adding a *1.1 or 1.05 to the dimensions scaled everything appropriately. I also used it to decide my nesting at +5% and using 9mm thick stringers. Ill be designing the side console in there as well as my deck hatch layout, and battery and tank positions.

Thanks for the info on the glass tubes. I'll definitely be looking through them.

Posted: **Mon Nov 09, 2020 8:03 pm**

Ok, I know who I'll be coming to with my f360 questions!

Posted: **Mon Nov 09, 2020 9:52 pm**

I'm by no means an expert, but always willing to lend a hand.

Started sanding tonight. Got a long way to go. Been trying to rig up my vacuum to work on my electric sander and it's just been awful trying to get something to fit. Hoping my Amazon order will solve the problem. Should arrive tomorrow.

Posted: **Mon Nov 30, 2020 7:44 pm**

It's been a while since I posted last but I've been hard at it trying to fair the hull. I've run myself out of Blended Filler mix and I think I'll be switching over to QuickFair from here. Here are a couple of photos along the way.

I realized after I was in too far that I probably applied too much filler in the beginning so I sanded a lot of it off with the Random Orbital.

I also decided to apply 6oz biax tape up the sides of the hull. In hindsight this ate up a lot of my filler material because of how sparce the fibers are compared to a more dense biaxial or light woven cloth. I wanted to cover the side in fiberglass and I figured why not the 6" tape since I had it on hand and it fit right in place with some minor trimming. Oh well, you live and learn.

I'm going to work on forming the sharp chine with woodflour and bonding a skeg and likely also the rubrails on at this point before I continue fairing anymore.

Last week I traveled to my parents in Alabama for Thanksgiving. I realized a couple days before I left that they had recently replaced their porch columns due to some rot that had set in from not putting them on risers off the porch floor 30 years ago. They were 4x6x8 cedar posts that only have maybe 6" or so of rot on the end at worst. Following the seaslug hatchmaking guide we took the 3 best columns of the 6 and made 6 pieces of 2 1/4 x 2, 4 pieces of 2 x 1/2, and then for sole and deck cleating we cut the remainder to 7/8 square. Ill trim them to get the rotten portions out, but I thought this was an excellent use of some cedar that would otherwise go to waste.

Posted: **Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:06 pm**

Looking good.

That RO sander probably added to your fairing woes. If you're looking for a smooth surface, the RO probably adds 1-2 extra fairing coats. Running a board is more labor intensive, but it'll give you a fair surface faster than the orbital sander...and a more fair surface period. I would suggest following up your previous fairing/sanding with at least one final pass with a 2' board. It's a good idea to have it when you move on to high-build anyway.

Posted: **Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:15 pm**

That makes sense, thanks for the insight!

Posted: **Tue Dec 01, 2020 6:16 am**

Great use of the columns! Nothing like reusing old wood. Good Karma for the boat to have a piece of the family house in her.

Posted: **Sun Jan 24, 2021 10:46 pm**

I know it's been a while, but I don't feel like I've had much to update on so I'm just checking in. Had a bit of a hiatus from Thanksgiving to New Years and then that carried into January a little bit. I was able to go to both the Rose Bowl game and the CFB National Championship game. They were a blast! It's fun when your team wins.

Anyway about the boat, fairing is moving along at a slow pace. I've used more Quikfair than I'd like to admit, but I'd say the vast majority of the hull is complete. I have a couple spots to level on the transom and then the rest is leveling some sags I had between the transom and Frame D. The port side was worse so I applied a milled fiber paste to build up the lowest spot and then faired from there. On the starboard side, it wasn't as bad so I'm building up with Quikfair only. I think another couple nights this week and I'll have it to a point that I'm satisfied with moving on to a couple coats of primer. I will need to make some strakes as well as I've chosen to add a couple strakes vs a skeg. It's mostly to attempt to avoid adding as much depth as possible, but still attempt to add some level of control to the hull.

I've also made some purchases for the boat. I've been watching FB marketplace for certain items to try to save a bit of money. I've gotten a poling platform and a 55lb bow mount trolling motor recently for 400 each. The poling platform is on the tall side as it came off a bigger boat, so I will probably cut it down and have pads welded back on. The trolling motor has a bad copilot module, but I plan to upgrade to ipilot anyway which removes the copilot module. As long as that's the only thing wrong with it I'll be golden. I also bought a 5gal tank from Boyd's in Ocala. Got the "custom" feature of a filler hose neck vs the stock item with a threaded cap neck. I've converged on a center console design where the tank will be under the fwd seat that will be part of the console.

Here are a few WIP pics from this weekend. I'm even closer now than I was when these were taken.

Posted: **Tue Jan 26, 2021 4:50 pm**

Those fairing photos are making me (not) nostalgic!

Progress looks great. Nice work holding out for the tank with the filler neck.

I'm not adding any strakes/keel but I considered the same thing you are planning: strakes that will not add depth. Interested to see how you do those.

Posted: **Wed Jan 27, 2021 12:40 pm**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Tue Jan 26, 2021 4:50 pm Those fairing photos are making me (not) nostalgic!

Progress looks great. Nice work holding out for the tank with the filler neck.

I'm not adding any strakes/keel but I considered the same thing you are planning: strakes that will not add depth. Interested to see how you do those.

It's funny the levels of enthusiasm that I've went through while trying to fair. I started the new year with a hard push to get it done, then hit a wall feeling like there was no end in sight, but now I'm so close I'm excited again!

The current plan for the strake right now will include a 1"x1"x8' angle aluminum and using that to form it. I'll probably make it out of a mixture of graphite/epoxy(for the sharp edge), milled fiber/epoxy, and strands of fiberglass to give it some longituidnal strength.

Posted: **Wed Jan 27, 2021 12:49 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 27, 2021 12:40 pm It's funny the levels of enthusiasm that I've went through while trying to fair. I started the new year with a hard push to get it done, then hit a wall feeling like there was no end in sight, but now I'm so close I'm excited again!

Nice work getting your mind right and getting back to it. I'll admit that staring at and running my hand over my smooth hull/paint job is a favorite hobby. One of my myriad shortcomings.

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 27, 2021 12:40 pm
The current plan for the strake right now will include a 1"x1"x8' angle aluminum and using that to form it. I'll probably make it out of a mixture of graphite/epoxy(for the sharp edge), milled fiber/epoxy, and strands of fiberglass to give it some longituidnal strength.

I like it, that's gonna be bomber!

Posted: **Sat Jan 30, 2021 5:22 pm**

I think I've gotten the boat faired as least well enough that I'm OK with it. I'll work on it a little more once I get a couple coats of primer on it, but for now I'm working on the strakes.

Tried making my first one last night and it did not end well for some reason.

I poured some thick milled fiber/epoxy dams on both ends and then filled the bottom of the angle with the graphite powder/epoxy mix. I'd say it was pourable but not brushable as far as thickness went. You can see the strands of fiberglass that I pulled out of scrap pieces of fabric to lay in as well. I let it gel in this setup for a couple hours.

I came back and laid in the fiberglass. Not super packed, but 3-4 strands on top of the graphite/epoxy mix with generous overlap, most of the time about half the length of the next strands. After that I poured a fairly runny mix of milled fiber/epoxy over it all until I got it to a level I was happy with. Photo was a few hours after pouring and I noticed a lot of bubbles.

This morning it was solid, but tacky, like I could impress fingerprints in it still. And the bubbles were still there. I left it to sit all day. The lows last night were in the 50s and high today was 70. This afternoon, about 24 hours after I started it was still solid, but rubbery. I was able to peel it out, quite literally. It basically double backed on itself to peel out of the angle. I'll leave it to sit on the boat another day to see if it'll kick, but I think something was up with my mixture. Even the cups I mixed from were still kinda jelly. This hasn't happened to me before. I know I used the correct mixture because I have the pump heads for the jugs of epoxy. Temps weren't the most ideal for slow hardener, but I thought it would still cure at these temps and duration. Maybe not? It's been a while since I've used the epoxy for anything since I've been fairing since October/November with Quikfair.

Aside from that, I mocked up the console that I designed out of cardboard. I think it will work out pretty well.

Posted: **Sat Jan 30, 2021 6:56 pm**

A heat gun may help with those bubbles.

Posted: **Sat Jan 30, 2021 7:15 pm**

Yeah, I wasn't too concerned about them because that's the bonding side of the strake. Just wasn't sure if that was indicative of something gone wrong.

I'll try again closer to next weekend. The highs are supposed to be near 80 later in the week. I'll also need to get more aluminum. I bent this one trying to get the strake out.

Maybe I'll go ahead with primer application tomorrow. I plan on digging the strake bonding area out to get back to bare fiberglass anyway. I'll have to fair that back in after they're bonded.

Posted: **Sat Jan 30, 2021 7:36 pm**

Are you using packing tape on the inside of the aluminum?

Posted: **Sat Jan 30, 2021 7:52 pm**

I didn't this time. I tried waxing it. I'll be using packing tape next time.

Posted: **Sat Jan 30, 2021 11:24 pm**

I built spray rails for my dory the same way. When I first pulled them out of the angle iron they were pretty flexible. Made it easy to fit them to the style line

I would think you are ok and they will cure more as time goes by.

Posted: **Sun Jan 31, 2021 9:47 am**

It appears you are correct. It's still not completely hard but has definitely stiffened up overnight.

We'll chalk this one up as a trial run and move forward.

Posted: **Fri Feb 05, 2021 9:05 am**

I was able to apply a coat of primer to the hull on Sunday. I was going for two coats, but noticed some pinholes once I started applying so I'm going to correct those before applying the 2nd coat.

Temps cooled off this week with even some frost a couple mornings. I didn't do any work outside in the evenings, but made a dent in creating a wiring diagram so I can start ordering materials for that. We'll be back in the upper 70's today so I'll be working on filling the holes and making strakes this weekend.

Posted: **Fri Feb 05, 2021 9:12 am**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 05, 2021 9:05 am I was able to apply a coat of primer to the hull on Sunday. I was going for two coats, but noticed some pinholes once I started applying so I'm going to correct those before applying the 2nd coat.

Temps cooled off this week with even some frost a couple mornings. I didn't do any work outside in the evenings, but made a dent in creating a wiring diagram so I can start ordering materials for that. We'll be back in the upper 70's today so I'll be working on filling the holes and making strakes this weekend.

Damn, that's looking super smooth! Upper 70's? Y'all are spoiled!

Posted: **Fri Feb 05, 2021 9:41 am**

Nice!!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Feb 19, 2021 12:45 pm**

Progress update!

So since last update where I had 1 coat of primer, I filled some pinholes, smoothed those out, applied 2 coats of primer, sanded that smooth then bonded strakes. While the strakes cured I also filled a few low spots that were highlighted during sanding the primer. I sprayed a mist of black spray paint down and sanded that off. That really highlighted the low spots.

Because I wanted a good bond for the strakes, I first laid out an area that the strakes were going to go. I sanded that area down to ensure I was at or close to fiberglass. Since I had a significant dip between Frame D and the Transom I had to remove a good amount of filler. In order to keep the Strakes at the appropriate height, I applied a thick mixture of epoxy and milled fiber into the trough I made and let that set for a few hours. After it had started to harden, but was still tacky, I then bonded the strakes on top of it.

I was initially planning longer strakes. These were my 2nd attempt after the first didn't end well and cured eventually. This 2nd shot I used a 4ft section of angle aluminum. After I removed them from the aluminum, I set the aluminum up on an angle to try to make a taper section. This did not go well. After removal I just could not get them to line up with the straight sections in a manner that I thought would be worth the time and effort. I scrapped those pieces and only bonded the original straight strakes that I made. Time will tell if it's enough.

After the bond cured, I began fairing them in. I sanded away more than just the bond area, so I had to fill that back in plus just standard filleting of the strakes to the body.

Last night, I decided that the weather and temperatures this weekend wasn't going to be suitable for applying the graphite. I went ahead and powered thru it overnight and I think it turned out OK. I had a lot of roller fuzz in the graphite which I wetsanded down at least a little bit today.

Photos pre-sanding

SHINEEEEE! Plus a few bits of fuzz...

Another reason that I wanted to push through last night was that I had set a goal earlier in the week of getting the graphite done and flipping the boat this weekend. I'll be heading to Port Charlotte to pick up a brand new Continental A1515 trailer tomorrow. Will be flipping tomorrow or Sunday. We'll see!

I know I'm opening myself up for additional work by having to flip it back over later for painting, but I don't trust myself to have the outside done and pristine when I still need to apply the rubrails and work on the inside. I'm also not confident enough in my sheer line to try to apply the rubrails in this orientation. It'll be fiiiine. At least that's what I keep telling myself.

Posted: **Fri Feb 19, 2021 12:50 pm**

Nice work!!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Feb 19, 2021 1:41 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 19, 2021 12:45 pm Progress update!

That strake business sounds like it will be fun to look back on. I hope they perform for you for the headaches they caused. Graphite job looks great, I'll be interested to see how the wet-sanding changes/improves it, and if you'll have to add another coat afterwards.

Good news in the trailer, I'm picking mine up tomorrow as well.

Posted: **Fri Feb 19, 2021 2:46 pm**

I didn't grab any photos of it after. Guess I could...

I didn't really do a full flattening of all the bumps and ridges. Just a general softening. I plan on primer/paint for the bottom at a later point. I hit it with 220 overall and what was more stubborn I came back and hit locally with 120. I used some scotchbrite after that. All with water. It just kinda has a dull glean to it now. I don't plan on applying more since it's not my finish for the bottom.

Posted: **Sat Feb 20, 2021 5:05 pm**

Trailer!

Flipping soon!

Posted: **Sat Feb 20, 2021 5:15 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 20, 2021 5:05 pm Trailer!

Flipping soon!

What, no salt? You got gipped!

Posted: **Sat Feb 20, 2021 5:18 pm**

We are both gonna need to turn our winch stands upside down.

Posted: **Sat Feb 20, 2021 5:33 pm**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Sat Feb 20, 2021 5:18 pm We are both gonna need to turn our winch stands upside down.

So I'm wondering about that. I know the winch will basically be slammed to the tongue. You put your bow eye on the more vertical edge of the bow. Im wondering if it would be better a little further aft on the other edge. I think if I do that it won't need to be flipped, but I don't know yet if that would have any other adverse side affects.

Posted: **Sun Feb 21, 2021 4:56 pm**

Got the boat flipped over last night so I was fiddling with that some today. A swing away hitch is a must ASAP. I think even then I'm going to have to rethink my garage layout a bit. That workbench behind the boat won't work once I hang a Tilt n Trim bracket and the motor back there. It's much too deep.

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Sat Feb 20, 2021 5:18 pm We are both gonna need to turn our winch stands upside down.

I think this will work. It's as low on the post as it can go. I think I can lower the roller about an inch by cutting the fork down and drilling new holes. I like this setup over flipping it over for sure.

Posted: **Sun Feb 21, 2021 5:52 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 21, 2021 4:56 pm Got the boat flipped over last night so I was fiddling with that some today. A swing away hitch is a must ASAP. I think even then I'm going to have to rethink my garage layout a bit. That workbench behind the boat won't work once I hang a Tilt n Trim bracket and the motor back there. It's much too deep.

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Sat Feb 20, 2021 5:18 pm We are both gonna need to turn our winch stands upside down.
I think this will work. It's as low on the post as it can go. I think I can lower the roller about an inch by cutting the fork down and drilling new holes. I like this setup over flipping it over for sure.

Congrats on the flip, that has to feel great! Roller does look good there. I'm thinking maybe remove the roller altogether and replace with 2 carpeted boards at 90 degrees like ski boat trailers use. Your idea to move the bow eye to the keel is interesting but I may worry about it catching a keel roller, you will have a better sense of that with your hull on the trailer, maybe it wont come close.

Posted: **Sun Feb 21, 2021 6:00 pm**

Congrats on the flip!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Feb 26, 2021 8:36 pm**

Got the hull inside glassed today!

Posted: **Fri Feb 26, 2021 10:14 pm**

Looks great from here! Marathon session to get that done?

Posted: **Fri Feb 26, 2021 10:22 pm**

Yup. Been out of town for work this week, so I had nothing to do but think about it. Started around 8 this morning and finished around 5:30. I wet out the seams, applied my fillets, taped, then covered. My back's worn out that's for sure. The trailer is just a tad low for working in all day and once everything is wetted out you can't prop up with your other hand.

Going kayaking at a local spring tomorrow, so we'll see if I can even roll out of bed by Sunday.

Posted: **Fri Mar 05, 2021 11:07 pm**

Glued and glassed the stringers in today.

Posted: **Sat Mar 06, 2021 6:43 am**

Looks great. That had to be another back breaker!

Posted: **Sat Mar 06, 2021 8:10 am**

You're not wrong!

At least this time around I could put a hand down for support.

Posted: **Sun Apr 04, 2021 8:48 pm**

Dang! It's been a month since I've posted an update. I think I'm just as far behind on VT_Jeff's build thread also...anyway...

I had some family matters to attend to that took me away for 2 weeks, but I'm back at it as hard as ever. I got the Frames bonded and glassed in place. I've drilled the holes for the chase tubes to run to and fro. This weekend I also started the console. It's ready for the tack bonds and then glassing the seams. I plan to use the 6oz biax tape on the seams and then I have some 4oz woven to cover it with.

I think the next big push will be the rubrails and then flipping it back over for final paint. I'll probably work odd jobs in between.

Posted: **Sun Apr 11, 2021 8:50 pm**

Good progress this week, mostly this weekend. Focus was on the rub rails, but worked on a couple other things as well.

I bonded the first layer of rubrail on each side. This was a tack bond to get it in place and then once it's all stacked up on there I'll create a generous fillet on the underside. I used Thixo Fast Cure from TotalBoat. I chose it due to the thick non sagging properties plus it's quick curing and comes in a caulk tube so it's super easy to apply. I clamped the strips in place, using construction shims to get them vertical and then spot bonded with the Thixo.

I'm very pleased with how it turned out. I used a laser level to establish a shear line reference and then laid the strip out to that on the starboard side. I know my boat is very level both directions, so then using the bonded starboard side, I set up the port side ensuring it was level across. I think this is the best I'm going to get and again I'm pretty pleased with it. I did noticed that my shear was wayyyy low in the center of the boat, so I'm glad I didn't just lay it up to the line the hull already had.

In other news, the console was taped. That didn't turn out quite as well because I got in a rush. I'm doing a little bit of rework with that before the final outside glass. Not sure if I'll glass the seams on the inside or not. I'll at least fillet but that may be as far as I go.

Decided on a rod storage method. With the shear so low it's hard to stack 2 spinning setups under the deck but I think it will be workable. I'll run 1-1/4 PVC thru the holes as rod tubes. Forward tubes will need to be heated and bent to follow the shape of the bow.

Posted: **Sun Apr 11, 2021 9:21 pm**

Nice touch with the shims and spot bonding. I tried to do all 3 layers in one session and it was hectic as hell.

With the flat shear, did you get away with straight strips, or did they match the contour of the top edge of the side panels?

Posted: **Sun Apr 11, 2021 9:34 pm**

Yeah I knew since I was trying to get it level in 2 directions plus follow the curve of the hull trying to do more than a strip at a time wasn't going to be worth the hassle.

They are straight strips. The flat sheer plus shimming them to vertical calls for that. If one or the other weren't in play then curved probably would have been needed. Although I cut them thin enough they could have probably taken a small amount of vertical curvature with enough clamps.

Posted: **Sun Apr 11, 2021 10:14 pm**

Nice work Cameron. How deep are the rubrails? And what are you planing for the final finish?

Posted: **Mon Apr 12, 2021 10:05 am**

That's a great approach to those rubrails, Cameron. With that vertical strip in place, you'll be able to throw some decking on a use a flush-trim bit to fit it exactly. My strips were not vertical so that did not work for me, resulting in the need to fill small gaps here and there where my saw was lofting/tracing/cutting were less than perfect, aka, everywhere.

Your point about the sheer being low in the middle is a great point also: with your method, small variations in the flatness/sheer height are easily fixed by the strips which want to be horizontal anyway. My sheer, after applying the shaped, traced strips, while still upside down, ended up looking like the surface of Lake Ontario after a 3-day blow: wavy. took me a lot of planing and epoxy to get it flat.

Also, these flat-sheer boats should have a vertical rub rail anyway, imo, they look much better, I think Seaslug made the same observation.

Did you measure the angle and cut the shims to match at each location or just stick a few in here and there until it looked right?

I hope future builders of this design see your post and go with your approach.

Posted: **Mon Apr 12, 2021 11:18 am**

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Sun Apr 11, 2021 10:14 pm Nice work Cameron. How deep are the rubrails? And what are you planing for the final finish?

They're 3/4 tall. My plan is to stack 2 6mm strips at that height. From there the deck will go directly on top and then another strip the total height(roughly 1-1/8) to cap it all off. I'll do a 1/8 round over on top and then install the smallest Taco Marine vinyl rubrail (1-1/16 x 11/16) on top of it all.

Posted: **Mon Apr 12, 2021 11:29 am**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Apr 12, 2021 10:05 am That's a great approach to those rubrails, Cameron. With that vertical strip in place, you'll be able to throw some decking on a use a flush-trim bit to fit it exactly....

...Did you measure the angle and cut the shims to match at each location or just stick a few in here and there until it looked right?

I hope future builders of this design see your post and go with your approach.

Appreciate the kind words! I just used the construction shims from Home Depot/Lowes. They come in a pack of a dozen or so for a couple dollars. I did cut them in half both length and width wise then used the thinner ends. Most locations took 2 or 3 wedged together to get it right. The trick is to not stick them in to far and separate the strip from the hull, that's why it took stacking them most places. Clamping force can be dialed in as well to adjust the strips.

It was a trial and error kinda thing. Knowing my boat was fairly level both directions i used a small level to adjust the shims until they were close to vertical. There's some small variation down the length but the goal was to keep the bubble between the lines the entire length and I believe I achieved that. Placement was focused mostly on the curvature of the hull so I tried to focus a few extra clamps forward and then opened the spacing out further aft. I probably could have had a little more control with a few more clamps, but that was all I had and felt it was adequate without having too big of a stockpile after this project is over.

Posted: **Mon Apr 12, 2021 11:46 am**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 12, 2021 11:18 am
Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Sun Apr 11, 2021 10:14 pm Nice work Cameron. How deep are the rubrails? And what are you planing for the final finish?
They're 3/4 tall. My plan is to stack 2 6mm strips at that height. From there the deck will go directly on top and then another strip the total height(roughly 1-1/8) to cap it all off. I'll do a 1/8 round over on top and then install the smallest Taco Marine vinyl rubrail (1-1/16 x 11/16) on top of it all.

You're making me think now, which is always dangerous.

I am currently planning on using a bright strip as the cap, which causes headaches in a few ways. It would be actually easier for me to add a plywood cap with a roundover, and then just attach my bright strip to that like Coach did on his SC16. I'm going to name this boat "RubRails" by the time it's over.

Posted: **Tue Apr 13, 2021 8:07 am**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Apr 12, 2021 11:46 am
bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 12, 2021 11:18 am
Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Sun Apr 11, 2021 10:14 pm Nice work Cameron. How deep are the rubrails? And what are you planing for the final finish?
They're 3/4 tall. My plan is to stack 2 6mm strips at that height. From there the deck will go directly on top and then another strip the total height(roughly 1-1/8) to cap it all off. I'll do a 1/8 round over on top and then install the smallest Taco Marine vinyl rubrail (1-1/16 x 11/16) on top of it all.
You're making me think now, which is always dangerous.

I am currently planning on using a bright strip as the cap, which causes headaches in a few ways. It would be actually easier for me to add a plywood cap with a roundover, and then just attach my bright strip to that like Coach did on his SC16. I'm going to name this boat "RubRails" by the time it's over.

I can dig it! Seems like it'll make it a little cleaner.

Posted: **Sat Apr 17, 2021 8:23 pm**

Progress this week was here and there. Working on several different little tasks mostly.

Earlier in the week, the 2nd rubrail layer went on. I ground a flat surface at the bow for the bow eye. After establishing a flat surface, I created a wider flat surface with epoxy using a trimmed popsicle stick wrapped in packing tape for the shape. When I flip it over, I'll smooth out the transition a bit.

Friday was a "holy day" where I started putting holes in the boat. Drain plug, baitwell fittings, transom and bow eyes, and 4 holes for a PT-35 Tilt n Trim bracket. Bilge pump fitting and nav lights are all that's left.

I did set the motor on the transom for a bit while trying to figure out where to locate the Tilt n trim setup. Had to snap a photo.

Also got the repairs on the console smoothed out mostly, and trimmed and darted a piece of 4oz woven fabric to cover it with.

Today the wife and I took a trip over to Kennedy Space Center for the day so I didn't get to do a whole lot, but I did cutout the deck pieces and ripped the next stack of rubrail strips. I decided to go with 2 more layers so I'll have a full inch off the hull sides. I like the flared look and maybe it'll help keep the ride a little drier as well.

I know Trent was interested to see what my rubrail stackup would look like finished so I mocked it up for some photos. I had already put the deck pieces away so a scrap piece will suffice for a show n tell.

Thought I'd show off what I'm working with here. Table saw is something that I haven't had the luxury of owning. Sure would have been nice while ripping the rubrail strips, but an extra piece with a known straight edge and a few nails will work in a pinch.

Goals for Sunday will be to drill the bilge pump thru hull fitting and nav light holes, start bonding the next layer of rub rail, and cover the console with the 4oz glass. Probably have to work in some yard work as well.

Targeting the flip for next weekend.

Posted: **Sun Apr 18, 2021 7:16 pm**

Remainder of the holes drilled and started the next layer of rubrail on the starboard side. That's enough for today.

If I can get the holes filled back in with epoxy and all of the rubrail pieces on then I should be good for the flip this weekend.

Question: Anyone blended in paint edges? What's the best way to make sure it looks smooth and continuous? I'm starting to realize that my work around the transom won't be done until the deck is installed and glassed. I feel like I'm going to be better off not painting the whole transom and painting it with the deck later. I'm trying to figure out whats the best to keep from having a step where the original paint ends and where newer paint would begin. Is the topside paint easily sandable? Could I taper blend it?

Posted: **Sun Apr 18, 2021 7:24 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 18, 2021 7:16 pm Remainder of the holes drilled and started the next layer of rubrail on the starboard side. That's enough for today.

If I can get the holes filled back in with epoxy and all of the rubrail pieces on then I should be good for the flip this weekend.

Question: Anyone blended in paint edges? What's the best way to make sure it looks smooth and continuous? I'm starting to realize that my work around the transom won't be done until the deck is installed and glassed. I feel like I'm going to be better off not painting the whole transom and painting it with the deck later. I'm trying to figure out whats the best to keep from having a step where the original paint ends and where newer paint would begin. Is the topside paint easily sandable? Could I taper blend it?

Great progress Cameron. I'm interested to see how the mounting of the bow eye ultimately works out, its bold!

I am patching paint on my transom and had the same concern about steps. I feathered it way back and hit it with some quickfair to ensure a smooth transition. I'll let you know how it ends up.

Posted: **Sun Apr 18, 2021 8:48 pm**

As things are starting to come together I have had to work in some audibles on the transom.

First was the shape. My Tohatsu 25's short shaft comes in at 17. I built the transom based on that. Well I later decided to pick up a power tilt n trim setup because fishing in the flats I will need to lift the motor a good bit I imagined. Manually lifting it will get old, especially with a poling platform in the way.

The PT-35 raises the motor 3-11/16" above the transom and has a 5" setback. I was ok with an inch or so rise above the bottom of the hull with a 5" setback, but not a nearly 4" rise.

So trimming I went. The transom height is now below deck level. Luckily I was already planning a motorwell, so I'll have a dip at the motorwell, but the rest of the transom will be deck height.

This is where my predicament comes in. I think now in order to properly transition the deck to the transom, I need to wrap the rubrail around at least until the dip in the transom. This will also ensure I can hide the transition of the hull color and the deck color behind the vinyl rubrail.

Most importantly is the deck glassing because that will need to wrap around slightly and if the rubrail is there then I can terminate it how I plan to everywhere else along the deck.

It's more work, and might set me back another week, but I think I need to try this out and see how it looks.

Oh, in my trimmings I cut the deck portion parallel to the deck and in the dip, tried cutting square to the transom. That didn't go as well as planned. So now I have a transom that's cut a little too shallow on the inside. I wasn't planning on adding the clamping board any longer since I'm adding the power tilt setup, but it seems the easiest way to restablish the transom shape I'm looking for. It will only be the width of the motorwell though. I'll get some photos of my boo boo and how I plan to fix it in the coming days.

Posted: **Mon Apr 19, 2021 4:03 pm**

Nice work Cameron and great progress. I really appreciate the rubrail/deck photos - really helps to see it. I was expecting that it might extend the bow some similar to seaslug's method, but I guess laying them vertical averted that. I think the 4-ply will turn out to be a good move.

I will have a similar bow eye placement as yours - mainly because mine needs to connect to the deck cleat so I can use the cleat to lift the boat with a davit. I need some depth to make that connection work.

Looking forward to the transom photos because I'm having some difficulty visualizing what's going on there.

Posted: **Mon Apr 19, 2021 4:36 pm**

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Mon Apr 19, 2021 4:03 pm I will have a similar bow eye placement as yours - mainly because mine needs to connect to the deck cleat so I can use the cleat to lift the boat with a davit. I need some depth to make that connection work.

Very interesting idea!

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Mon Apr 19, 2021 4:03 pm
Looking forward to the transom photos because I'm having some difficulty visualizing what's going on there.

Very Ditto! I can't picture it without pictures.

Posted: **Mon Apr 19, 2021 6:15 pm**

Let's see if this works...a summary until I snap some photos.

Previously, my transom was above the deck so the outcome would be more like this.

But now I think it's gonna end up looking more like this.

Posted: **Mon Apr 19, 2021 7:36 pm**

Got it. Pretty similar to any of the larger designs here. I have to think you could scab some wood on your bad deck cut if you wanted to avoid adding a transom double, but either is a fine choice.

Posted: **Mon Apr 19, 2021 9:10 pm**

Yeah I thought about an epoxy paste buildup, but adding the 3rd piece that would otherwise be the "clamping board" is going to be easiest in this case.

Posted: **Mon Apr 19, 2021 9:28 pm**

Port side rubrail 3rd strip bonded on tonight.

Also glassed the console with 4oz woven fabric. We'll see how that turns out tomorrow. I tried forming a flange on the bottom by glassing it on top of some plastic and running it long. I put strips of 12oz biaxial down along the bottom first to give it a little bit of structure and then the 4oz on top of it.

Posted: **Tue Apr 20, 2021 7:46 pm**

Final starboard side rubrail strip went on!

Thought my console turned out pretty good as well. Covered the entire thing with 1 continuous piece of 4oz woven. That was a feat! I'll fillet the inside and do a full coat of epoxy then work on building up the flange some more with some chopped strand mat I have lying around. Theres a little waviness in the flange so I'll have to do some sanding to smooth it out once built up. Nothing I can't handle though.

Posted: **Tue Apr 20, 2021 9:34 pm**

Looking good, smart move with the 12oz. Tom

Posted: **Wed Apr 21, 2021 3:30 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 7:46 pm Final starboard side rubrail strip went on!

Thought my console turned out pretty good as well. Covered the entire thing with 1 continuous piece of 4oz woven. That was a feat! I'll fillet the inside and do a full coat of epoxy then work on building up the flange some more with some chopped strand mat I have lying around. Theres a little waviness in the flange so I'll have to do some sanding to smooth it out once built up. Nothing I can't handle though.

Great idea/execution. You going with wheel steering or is this just a grab-console/seat? I know we talked about it but don't recall the final decision on it.

Posted: **Wed Apr 21, 2021 3:52 pm**

Yeah full blown steering and throttle.

Have a Seastar NFB helm and Seastar Xtreme Throttle already.

Even modeled them up in Fusion360 to help size the console.

Posted: **Wed Apr 21, 2021 4:09 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 3:52 pm Yeah full blown steering and throttle.

Have a Seastar NFB helm and Seastar Xtreme Throttle already.

Even modeled them up in Fusion360 to help size the console.

Shifter or just throttle?

Posted: **Wed Apr 21, 2021 4:12 pm**

Oh yes throttle and shift control.

Posted: **Wed Apr 21, 2021 4:26 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 4:12 pm Oh yes throttle and shift control.

Wow. The honda units I've looked at are huge compared to that. Good to know!

Posted: **Wed Apr 21, 2021 9:02 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 3:52 pm

Even modeled them up in Fusion360 to help size the console.

DIY Builder’s secret weapon!

Posted: **Wed Apr 21, 2021 9:12 pm**

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 9:02 pm
bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 3:52 pm

Even modeled them up in Fusion360 to help size the console.
DIY Builder’s secret weapon!

Yup, I bought them way early in the build process just so I could model them.

Posted: **Thu Apr 22, 2021 10:28 am**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 9:12 pm
Yup, I bought them way early in the build process just so I could model them.

I'm going to need to take a fresh look at converting my tiller motor to remote controls. All I'm doing out of the gate is remote steering.

Posted: **Thu Apr 22, 2021 7:06 pm**

Rubrails are DONE! At least the sides are that is. I'm bonding the Transom Clamp board in place and then I'll work on bonding the strips around the back.

Have to drill 2 more stern eye holes because the rub rail will now be in the way.

Paint ordered. Got the EZPoxy from Petit with a can of the Performance Enhancer. Going with a Platinum hull and white deck. I think it's gonna look a little something like this.

Probably also work on the console in the mean time as well.

Photos later.

Posted: **Thu Apr 22, 2021 8:30 pm**

Photos!

Posted: **Thu Apr 22, 2021 10:55 pm**

Lookin' good Cameron. Wondering why you chose to go with EZPoxy? Paint has been one of the most confusing things for me.

Posted: **Thu Apr 22, 2021 11:45 pm**

Looking good guy. The two part EZPoxy is supposed to be a good paint. Tom

Posted: **Fri Apr 23, 2021 7:08 am**

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 10:55 pm Lookin' good Cameron. Wondering why you chose to go with EZPoxy? Paint has been one of the most confusing things for me.

It started with a color choice that I couldn't find anywhere else. Ocean Blue and Seattle Grey. That was my plan for a while, so I bought Petit primer and brushing thinner when I was fairing. After I decided to change colors I figured it would just be easiest to stick with Petit since I already have some Petit brand materials. I could have went anywhere for Platinum(kingston grey in other brands).

The other reason I liked the idea of EZPoxy was the additive that you can get with it. It doesn't really make it a true 2 part polyurethane since it's not required, but seems to get it closer to that performance level.

Cost is another factor. I really wanted to use the EMC Quantum paint, but couldn't justify the significant cost increase. Maybe next time around when I'm more experienced.

Posted: **Fri Apr 23, 2021 9:58 am**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 8:30 pm Photos!

Well done on the rub rails, those really stack up nice, should give you some spray protection I would think. I may have some trailer envy as well. I wanted a sweet Alum trailer like that but cheap me said no way.

Posted: **Fri Apr 23, 2021 10:12 am**

Brand new was 1220 out the door! I had similar sized Magic-Tilt galvanized quoted at like 1400. It was a no brainer for me. I had to go over 2 hours away to get it. Boat trailers are scarce in FL.

I will say I am not enthused about some of the welds or the wiring, but for the price I couldn't say no.

It's not that the welds are bad, but they made structural welds and then simply because there was a gap between the 2 channel pieces(diff size stock) they just filled it. I'm sure people who don't know any better asked for it, but what they don't realize is a glop of weld just to fill a gap like that will be more likely to crack than a simply functional one.

I'm considering rewiring the thing or at least wrapping the existing wiring with some chafing protection.

Posted: **Fri Apr 23, 2021 10:36 am**

On the EMC front... any idiot can make it look good by accident. That stuff is the “Pillsbury cinnamon roll” of paints. As a confirmed idiot I managed to get a solid finish by just following the directions. The times I tried to improve on the directions it went to hell-in-a-handbasket. If I ever get the nerve to paint the “big” boat I’ll wind up dropping the $$ on EMC again.

That said, once seen some stellar finish from Pettit and Interlux. I’m just too stupid to do those well.

Posted: **Fri Apr 23, 2021 10:56 am**

Maybe I should have splurged then...A painter I am not.

Posted: **Fri Apr 23, 2021 11:33 am**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 10:12 am Brand new was 1220 out the door! I had similar sized Magic-Tilt galvanized quoted at like 1400. It was a no brainer for me. I had to go over 2 hours away to get it. Boat trailers are scarce in FL.

I will say I am not enthused about some of the welds or the wiring, but for the price I couldn't say no.

It's not that the welds are bad, but they made structural welds and then simply because there was a gap between the 2 channel pieces(diff size stock) they just filled it. I'm sure people who don't know any better asked for it, but what they don't realize is a glop of weld just to fill a gap like that will be more likely to crack than a simply functional one.

I'm considering rewiring the thing or at least wrapping the existing wiring with some chafing protection.

I like to rewire my trailers with outdoor extension cords, has worked well for my util trailer that has crossed the continent maybe 6- times.

Posted: **Fri Apr 23, 2021 1:12 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 2021 10:12 am Brand new was 1220 out the door! I had similar sized Magic-Tilt galvanized quoted at like 1400. It was a no brainer for me. I had to go over 2 hours away to get it. Boat trailers are scarce in FL.

I will say I am not enthused about some of the welds or the wiring, but for the price I couldn't say no.

It's not that the welds are bad, but they made structural welds and then simply because there was a gap between the 2 channel pieces(diff size stock) they just filled it. I'm sure people who don't know any better asked for it, but what they don't realize is a glop of weld just to fill a gap like that will be more likely to crack than a simply functional one.

I'm considering rewiring the thing or at least wrapping the existing wiring with some chafing protection.

My galvanized karavan 1200# was $1500 and I was stoked to get it, they were getting very hard to find. They are not the commodity up here that they are down there.

Posted: **Fri Apr 23, 2021 8:48 pm**

Today was kind of a short day workwise because I got my first COVID vaccine around midday. Spent the morning modeling on the computer.

I have a 3d printer and I've been racking my brain this whole build trying to find something that the printer could be of use for. It finally hit me a while back...router guides! First one on the list was to round off the bow. I drew 3 up. A 1" radius, a 1.25" radius, and a 1.5" radius. Printed the 1" radius first and it worked like a charm.

Until my pluge base decided to stick on me and then release itself when I wasn't clear of the part. Oooof.

That's ok. It's too tight of a bend for the Taco Marine rubrail anyway. Printing the 1.25" radius and I'll run it tomorrow...with the fixed base this time. It should remove most of that and some wood putty will fill the rest in. If I go to 1.5" it'll definitely get removed.

Also worked on getting the transom squared away. Had to adjust the deck piece I cut previously to move slightly further aft. Took the opportunity to sit the poling platform on there. It's gonna get it's legs shortened for sure. It came off of an 18' boat. I like the platform size, but it's definitely too tall. The feet are partially corroded away also, so I'll use it as an opportunity to make new feet and get them welded on.

And a shot of the transom now with the proper dip for the PT-35 and the rest at the same level as the rubrail so the rubrail will now wrap around to the dip. First rubrail layer going on tonight. I think I'll at least do 2 layers at once tomorrow. It's a lot easier as a straight 14" long piece.

Posted: **Sun Apr 25, 2021 8:52 pm**

Not a lot to write home about the rest of the weekend. Worked on a few different things here and there. Not many photos either.

The 1.25" radius guide cleared out most of my oopsie. I think I'm gonna go with this shape. I think the Taco Marine rubrail will wrap around it just fine with a little heat.

Finished the Transom rubrails. After bonding the first earlier, I was able to stack the next 3 in one shot. It's nice not having to work around a bend.

I filled all the thru hull holes with epoxy and had to do some backfilling tonight where apparently I didn't pack the holes well enough. I'll work on drilling those out this week and smoothing them back out to the surrounding structure. Bonded some cedar strips on the B and D frames. I plan on supporting the boat by those frames when I flip it so I figured I should shore that up a bit in preparation.

Added another layer of 12oz biaxial to the bottom side of the console flange. Now I'll give the whole thing a good sanding and trim the flange to final-ish width. At that point I'll analyze the wavy areas and figure out how to level them. Probably with some of the chopped strand mat i have lying around.

Goal is to flip it back over on Friday, but we have plans nearly every night this week, so we'll see if I make it or not. I at least what the holes redrilled before I flip. Could probably stand to at least have a small fillet on the rubrails because I know they'll get handled pretty heavily during the flip. Might have to wait another week.

Posted: **Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:51 am**

Where is the link to upload drawings for the routing templates I need?

Posted: **Mon Apr 26, 2021 1:16 pm**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:51 am Where is the link to upload drawings for the routing templates I need?

Shoot me a PM. What you got in mind?

Posted: **Mon Apr 26, 2021 1:20 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 26, 2021 1:16 pm
VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:51 am Where is the link to upload drawings for the routing templates I need?

Shoot me a PM. What you got in mind?

JK, but if something comes up I will def check with you first. What a great resource(a 3d printer) to have for this type of work!

Posted: **Mon Apr 26, 2021 1:31 pm**

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Apr 26, 2021 1:20 pm
bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 26, 2021 1:16 pm
VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:51 am Where is the link to upload drawings for the routing templates I need?

Shoot me a PM. What you got in mind?
JK, but if something comes up I will def check with you first. What a great resource(a 3d printer) to have for this type of work!

It's usefulness comes and goes. I go through periods of making stuff and then it collects dust for a while. I really want to experiement with some more robust materials because the easy to print stuff isn't the best strength-wise. For a one-off router guide it works just fine though.

Posted: **Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:24 pm**

Looks like a lot of good progress to me. Good find on the poling platform. Just noticed that your deck is set inside of your rub rails. Was that because of your low shear line issue that you resolved with the rub rails? Or some other reason?

Posted: **Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:37 pm**

Also, since you and Jeff are also using the Boyd's fuel tank - wondering how you guys have resolved venting the tank? I went the same route as Jeff and ordered the off-the-self version where the filler cap will be inside the hatch. I had this set-up in a past boat, but the tank was near the transom and I ran the vent up the poling platform. Black hose on black post wasn't really noticeable. Not really an option with this build since I'm not planning on a poling platform and my tank will be forward of frame B. Running it to the side of the hull seems iffy with such a low shear. A last resort would be to run it up the grab bar - but that's not really an "overboard" location and I'm afraid would seem like an afterthought.

Posted: **Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:41 pm**

No that was the intent the whole time. Idea is the lower set pieces act as the bonding surface for the deck. Jacques says you either need the rubrail outward or strips inside the hull to give the same support. I just decided to cap it off with additional strips to build it out some more. Once the decks are glued in I'll do a roundover on the top and then put the vinyl rubrail on. End result should be something similar to this.

Posted: **Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:50 pm**

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:37 pm Also, since you and Jeff are also using the Boyd's fuel tank - wondering how you guys have resolved venting the tank? I went the same route as Jeff and ordered the off-the-self version where the filler cap will be inside the hatch. I had this set-up in a past boat, but the tank was near the transom and I ran the vent up the poling platform. Black hose on black post wasn't really noticeable. Not really an option with this build since I'm not planning on a poling platform and my tank will be forward of frame B. Running it to the side of the hull seems iffy with such a low shear. A last resort would be to run it up the grab bar - but that's not really an "overboard" location and I'm afraid would seem like an afterthought.

I'm hiding mine inside my center console just forward of Frame C. The filler cap that I'll put on the side of the console also has a vent. I need to check and make sure it vents when closed...if it doesn't I'll just put a P trap vent on the side.

Placing the tank forward of Frame B I think I would place a vent as high and centered on the Frame as you can stand it. One of the ones with a top shield so water rolling off the deck wouldn't flood it is probably the best bet.

I don't think there's really a good overboard option with these small boats. At least we're not forced to conform to ABYC. I'd say I'm at least trying to conform for my design in the console. There will be a wall in the console between the tank area and the rest of the console. Basically aligned with Frame C. The only electrical running into that area will be the fuel sending unit and that will be thru a bulkhead fitting.

Posted: **Mon Apr 26, 2021 10:12 pm**

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:37 pm Also, since you and Jeff are also using the Boyd's fuel tank - wondering how you guys have resolved venting the tank? I went the same route as Jeff and ordered the off-the-self version where the filler cap will be inside the hatch. I had this set-up in a past boat, but the tank was near the transom and I ran the vent up the poling platform. Black hose on black post wasn't really noticeable. Not really an option with this build since I'm not planning on a poling platform and my tank will be forward of frame B. Running it to the side of the hull seems iffy with such a low shear. A last resort would be to run it up the grab bar - but that's not really an "overboard" location and I'm afraid would seem like an afterthought.

I sweated this for a while and did a lot of research and hemmed and hawed and then just vented it out the side near the tank. Non-siphoning vent, supposedly. No water separator either, definitely living dangerously.

It could theoretically suck water, but it's pretty unlikely.

Edit: I wont be going very far in rough water with this boat and smooth water should not be an issue. That's my thinking anyway.

Posted: **Fri Apr 30, 2021 9:45 pm**

Couple things accomplished today.

Rounded the stern rubrail corners. 3d printed router guides are definitely the way to go.

Worked on leveling the fiberglass flange of the console with a layer of chopped strand mat. Will have to apply more layers strategically to get it completely leveled out.

Flipped the hull over to begin paint prep work. Gonna put the nice sized radius under the rub rail, clean up a few epoxy runs, maybe another coat of graphite/epoxy, then primer and paint.

Posted: **Tue May 04, 2021 6:14 pm**

Summer is here in Central Florida! 90+ degrees. Sweaty PPE and short pot lifes abound! And once it cools off and the sun goes away the mosquitos show up. You just can't win.

Working on the fillet of the rubrail underside. Using PVC as a guide I just finished up with about a .75" radius. Once that's cured I'll give it a good sanding and then go to about an inch. It's the female end of a 1.5" conduit that I'm gonna use, so it's about 2.2".

Posted: **Tue May 04, 2021 8:23 pm**

Just had the same thought. My build is under the house but otherwise exposed - mosquitos are starting to swarm in low light conditions. I think they’re fond of the epoxy smell. No-see-ums are starting in full force too. At least we have a nice breeze right now, but come June...

I was hoping to flip soon for paint, but I think I may have missed that opportunity.for the foreseeable future.

Posted: **Tue May 04, 2021 8:33 pm**

I'm just the opposite from you guys, I'm just getting to where its warm enough to paint.

Cameron, are you dragging the pvc through the fillet to form the radius or using a long piece as an actual mold? I have to do the same task, but right side up.

Posted: **Tue May 04, 2021 8:50 pm**

Just dragging a short piece through.

Posted: **Tue May 04, 2021 8:52 pm**

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Tue May 04, 2021 8:23 pm Just had the same thought. My build is under the house but otherwise exposed - mosquitos are starting to swarm in low light conditions. I think they’re fond of the epoxy smell. No-see-ums are starting in full force too. At least we have a nice breeze right now, but come June...

I was hoping to flip soon for paint, but I think I may have missed that opportunity.for the foreseeable future.

Yeah I was telling my wife this evening that we're probably gonna need to get up at the buttcrack of dawn to do the painting. That way temps aren't too out of control. She's gonna roll and I'm gonna tip...at least that's what we're going to attempt.

I'm in my garage, but I have to stick the nose out a bit to get around the back side between the transom and work bench. I bought one of those garage door nets I aim to put up and maybe be able to work a little later. Haven't put it up yet though.

Posted: **Wed May 05, 2021 7:43 am**

Cameron/Jeff - my fuel tank arrives today and I have a question about how you are running your fuel line. I think we’re all placing the tank forward of frame B. Are you running your fuel line “high” or “low”? Meaning, are you running it “high” below the gunnel - or - “low” below the sole? If “high”, are you including anti-siphon and fuel demand valves? If “low”, I think there’s no question that you need the valves.

Posted: **Wed May 05, 2021 8:03 am**

I'm just forward of C and will be running under the floor. Have not worked out the valving/fittings yet. That will come after flipping back over after painting.

Looks like I definitely need anti-siphon, though.

Posted: **Wed May 05, 2021 8:33 am**

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Wed May 05, 2021 7:43 am Cameron/Jeff - my fuel tank arrives today and I have a question about how you are running your fuel line. I think we’re all placing the tank forward of frame B. Are you running your fuel line “high” or “low”? Meaning, are you running it “high” below the gunnel - or - “low” below the sole? If “high”, are you including anti-siphon and fuel demand valves? If “low”, I think there’s no question that you need the valves.

I'm running high, no valves. Not sure what they are for but I'm all ears.

Posted: **Wed May 05, 2021 8:50 am**

Jeff - my understanding is that if there is a break in the line, the anti-siphon prevents fuel from siphoning out of the tank and into the boat. It is a USCG (and EPA?) requirement if your fuel line is below the tank at any point or runs downhill (not sure I’m stating that with 100% accuracy). The fuel demand valve only allows fuel to flow to the motor when the motor demands it. I think it’s use is primarily for portable tanks and evolved after the EPA stopped allowing those tanks to be vented. Hope that helps. Attwood has a decent YouTube video showing the two valves working in conjunction.

I’m sure there are folks around here that have a more precise understanding, but I think that’s the gist of it.

Posted: **Wed May 05, 2021 8:52 am**

https://youtu.be/pGHLlaygibc

Posted: **Wed May 05, 2021 9:02 pm**

I do know that the fuel demand valve is needed for ventless portable tanks. They puff like a balloon if left in the sun, and without that, you'll flood a carb because that's the only place for the tank to vent. I'm not sure it's needed for a vented permanent tank.

My stupid gas cans are the same way. I went to vent one the other day because it had puffed in the garage and it was pointing towards my fishing rods. Still a good 2 feet away, but pointed toward them. Didn't expect it to actually SPEW gas. I was just expecting to burp it, but nope. Doused my rods and reels in gas...2 stroke oil-mixed gas at that. I rinsed them off, but time will tell if they're OK. Maybe I'll get new fishing gear to go with a new boat.

I hate ventless fuel containers...

Anti-siphon will definitely be needed for me and could still be a good plan for you guys too. One more thing to clog up and starve the motor, though.

Posted: **Thu May 06, 2021 9:51 am**

Agree that the fuel demand valve is not needed with a properly vented tank.

Regarding the anti-siphon valve, I was hoping to find an elbow version. No luck - possibly doesn’t exist because of the internal mechanism. Also was hoping to find a 3/8” NPT x 5/16” barb version. No luck there either. My understanding is that a 5/16” fuel line is preferable for a small outboard. 3/8” is Ok, but 5/16” would be better.

Posted: **Thu May 06, 2021 10:52 pm**

Guys buy a quality tank from Moeller 3-24 top side tanks you will not have any problems as they meet al EPA, ABYC and USCG Regs. I and Cracker Larry researched all the ins and outs of this when the new rules came out many years ago. If you need a larger aluminum tank there are a couple of dealers that the members use. The main thing is have a shut off near the tank and a loop that is higher than the tank to the motor. The loop is the anti-syphon preventer. Go with a 3/8 hose it is the standard size these days and will not flood your motor. If your not sure check with your dealer and see what your fuel intake size is. 3/8 is almost pretty much the standard these days, except for larger motors.

Tom

Posted: **Sat May 08, 2021 2:18 pm**

Progress is slow, but I've wrapped up the fillet underneath the rubrail. Just applied a generous coat of neat resin to seal everything up to make sure no bare wood is still exposed. Once that cures I'll go back with some Quickfair and smooth out the humps and bumps. I'm also finalizing the flat surface for the boweye. That will also get a swipe or so of Quickfair to blend into the hull.

After the Quickfair I'll do another coat of graphite/epoxy, then a couple coats of primer, a final fairing sand, probably another coat or 2 of primer, then she'll be ready for paint.

Posted: **Tue May 11, 2021 8:55 pm**

On Sunday I Quikfaired the rubrail fillet and started sanding on that. I'm about halfway thru sanding it down and I think I'll have to touch up a few spots. I'd say the application got me 90% there.

Also added another layer of CSM to the console flange. I flipped it over and let it cure allowing gravity to do it's thing to try to level it all out. It did an OK job, but I'm taking it one final step further tonight. I layed out new plastic and marked the outline of the flange. I removed the console from the plastic and then applied a thick mixture of milled fiber and fumed silica around the perimeter then set the console back down on top. This should form a shim to level it out the rest of the way assuming all goes as planned. I'm happy with the thickness, so I just need to get it somewhat level and then I can move on and start fairing it. Would be nice to be able to get some coats of primer on that when I do the final prime of the hull.

I think with the way things are going so far my goal is to get the additional layer of graphite/epoxy on the hull by the end of this upcoming weekend. Then maybe, just maybe I could be ready to paint by the next weekend. Unfortnately this weekend would be better for painting temp-wise, but I'm just not there.

2nd covid shot on Friday. Here's to hoping that doesn't put me down for a day or so!

Posted: **Tue May 11, 2021 10:30 pm**

Way to keep the candle burning!

Are you going to paint over the graphite? Your epoxy/quickfair/sand/prime/quickfair/sand/graphite/prime/sand/paint plan has my head spinning, it's good you got it recorded for reference!

Posted: **Tue May 11, 2021 10:41 pm**

Yeah I plan to paint over the graphite. I'm ok with some scuffing on the hull paint as long as the graphite underneath protects the glass.

The priming again after the graphite is for a re-fair basically. Just to make sure I've got it as good as I can. I did have to sand some runs and stuff in a couple spots plus the bumps in the graphite that I cleaned up, so I'd like to smooth that out with a couple coats of primer before finally painting.

It is probably excessive.

Posted: **Thu May 13, 2021 7:54 pm**

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Thu May 06, 2021 9:51 am Agree that the fuel demand valve is not needed with a properly vented tank.

Regarding the anti-siphon valve, I was hoping to find an elbow version. No luck - possibly doesn’t exist because of the internal mechanism. Also was hoping to find a 3/8” NPT x 5/16” barb version. No luck there either. My understanding is that a 5/16” fuel line is preferable for a small outboard. 3/8” is Ok, but 5/16” would be better.

Hey mojo here’s a 5/16 stem to 3/8 male npt
https://www.hydraulics-etc.com/205-106/ ... ey=205-106

Posted: **Thu May 13, 2021 8:25 pm**

Completed the sanding of the first Quikfair pass for the rubrail fillet. As I suspected it was about 90% good enough. Applied a little bit more in a few spots tonight and I think she'll be ready for primer tomorrow.

Decided to forego the extra graphite layer. I don't think it's gonna add much value and I'm gonna try to paint next weekend.

The shim on the console flange worked...ok. It wasn't quite thick enough in some areas so I'm going to have to backfill the gap. Ordered some syringes better suited for that than what I have. Once I do that I'll give it a good sanding and then apply a layer of 4oz woven to that bottom side and call it done and ready for fairing.

Posted: **Fri May 14, 2021 7:44 am**

Hey mojo here’s a 5/16 stem to 3/8 male npt
https://www.hydraulics-etc.com/205-106/ ... ey=205-106

Wow - thanks!

Posted: **Fri May 14, 2021 10:10 am**

Free idea of the day:

Cut the top of the seat off the console and replace it with a slightly oversized bright piece on hinges to give you some simple storage under there or at least access to whatever will live under there.

Posted: **Fri May 14, 2021 10:33 am**

Yeah I gotta work out how to do that. That's where my fuel tank will live...walled off from the rest of the console of course.

. Definitely want to have access there to maintain hoses and the level sender.

I also plan on working out an opening on the seat back as well to get to the back side of the instrument panel and whatnot. Probably should have angled it slightly, but I am where I am.

Posted: **Fri May 14, 2021 5:36 pm**

1 coat of primer down. Should be able to get another one on this evening.

Posted: **Fri May 14, 2021 8:03 pm**

2 coats of primer done. It's highlighted a couple spots in my rubrail fillet that may need a smear or so of Quikfair. I'll take care of that tomorrow and giver her a good sanding to smooth it out.

You'll notice some bits in the coat...I couldn't get all of the solids to remix. I think I used it last time without all the solids fully mixed and so now I have a surplus which would result in little chunks. No worries though because she's gonna get a good fairing sand. If I leave enough primer on for paint then we'll move right along, but if I end up needing to take most of it off we'll apply another coat afterwards.

Posted: **Sat May 15, 2021 5:48 am**

Nice!

Posted: **Sat May 15, 2021 9:56 pm**

Couple touchup areas of primer needed tomorrow and she'll be ready for color! I think I'm gonna target Tuesday evening for first coat. I have to admit I'm getting nervous. I really hope it turns out well.

I got FoamPro 1/8" nap foam rollers, some 3" wide badger hair brushes. I'm gonna go get a piece of glass so I can tune the amount of thinner. I think I'm doing everything I can to get it right.

Posted: **Sat May 15, 2021 10:32 pm**

Looks great so far, good luck for tue.

I'm working on deck painting myself, not one of my fortes.

Posted: **Tue May 18, 2021 8:15 pm**

We have paint! Pretty happy with how it's looking so far. I forewent tipping because it was leaving streaks. Maybe it wasn't thin enough? I got excited and didnt test it on the glass piece I bought. Maybe I'll try that on coat 2. The 1/8 nap roller wasn't leaving many bubbles and it was leveling out pretty quickly so I just rolled with it.

Not glass smooth because I didn't sand the primer underneath to glass smooth. Was hoping the paint would fill that in a little bit. Thinking I'll do a 2nd coat, assess the slickness and then go from there. Either roll with it or give it a more aggressive sanding and apply another coat.

Paint du jour is Pettit EZPoxy Platinum color with Performance Enhancer.

Posted: **Tue May 18, 2021 9:23 pm**

Wow, looks pretty dang smooth from here! I'll be interested in how long you have to wait before sanding and recoat, I'm going on 5 days now.

Posted: **Tue May 18, 2021 9:32 pm**

According to the Data Sheet I can recoat in 8 hours at 90F or 16 at 70F. Low tonight is 68F. I don't usually work on it on Wednesdays anyway so we'll see what it's like on Thursday. Definitely should be good to scuff 'er up by then.

I checked on it an hour later and it appears to have smoothed out some more. I think after 2 coats she'll be pretty smooth. I'll get some close ups prior to scuffing. It's easy to look good from 10 feet, but 6 inches is another thing all together.

I'm gonna have to get another quart anyway because I think I want the console to be hull color instead of white, so I might just do a 3rd coat with that batch to make sure they match.

Posted: **Wed May 19, 2021 7:54 am**

I've never had luck getting a smooth finish without starting with a smooth finish- paint just changes the color!

Posted: **Wed May 19, 2021 9:02 am**

pee wee wrote: ↑Wed May 19, 2021 7:54 am I've never had luck getting a smooth finish without starting with a smooth finish- paint just changes the color!

Yeah I'm learning that's the case. Now I'm wondering if I sand now or sand later.

Coating is definitely dry to the touch this morning. Not sure I'd go sanding on it just yet, but it's definitely dry and not sticky. Here's a few close ups showing the texture. It is no doubt glossy, just a reflection of the underlying substrates. I used a non foam roller for primer and thats where the orange peel texture is coming from. 2nd photo is an area where trying to tip left streaks. Not bad, but slightly visible.

Posted: **Wed May 19, 2021 8:28 pm**

Well Jeff, it was definitely sandable today.

I might have cried a bit as I did this, but I have a surface finish goal and it's only going to be easier if I start back over. Even at this level of sanded there are still low spots of orange peel that have glossy paint still in them. Ill finish sanding her back down tomorrow night and probably into Friday. Probably do a coat of primer with the same 1/8 nap foam roller on Friday. Sand smooth Saturday. Maybe a coat of paint Saturday or Sunday. Should be able to work a 2nd coat in next week and I'll still be ready for the flip by Memorial Day weekend.

Posted: **Wed May 19, 2021 10:07 pm**

Ouch.

Good call rewinding, you wont miss a week in the years you'll have the boat.

Surface contaminated? Too smooth? Dry too fast?

Posted: **Wed May 19, 2021 10:10 pm**

Nah it was a perfectly good coat adhesion-wise. I just left the primer with too much texture in it.

Posted: **Fri May 21, 2021 11:12 am**

It's like deja-vu all over again!

She is no doubt smoother this go-around.

Posted: **Sat May 22, 2021 11:54 am**

Much better!

Posted: **Sun May 23, 2021 3:22 pm**

I had similar issues with the POR15 primer I used on my C17. I haven't sanded it yet, but will when the weather warms up a bit. (It's late Autumn here).

For the record though I don't think anyone but you would ever notice a small amount of texture. Even mine, which is a substandard finish at present seems smooth and fair as soon as I step back for a photo.

On the inside I consider texture to be a feature, not a bug. Don't want sun glare on the eyes.

Posted: **Sun May 23, 2021 3:37 pm**

OneWayTraffic wrote: ↑Sun May 23, 2021 3:22 pm I had similar issues with the POR15 primer I used on my C17. I haven't sanded it yet, but will when the weather warms up a bit. (It's late Autumn here).

For the record though I don't think anyone but you would ever notice a small amount of texture. Even mine, which is a substandard finish at present seems smooth and fair as soon as I step back for a photo.

On the inside I consider texture to be a feature, not a bug. Don't want sun glare on the eyes.

You're right and it was the same for me. From a distance you could see the reflection of other stuff in the garage even with the orange peel texture. I just had an expectation and I didn't want to compromise. I may have lost a few days, but I think it's worthwhile in the long haul.

That is a good point on the deck side, I probably should have gotten the semi-gloss white vs regular white, but I will be applying anti-skid texture to a large portion of the deck so I think that will knock the majority of the glare down. I know Pettit mentions a flattening agent you can add in their data sheets, but I can't seem to find anyone selling it anymore.

Posted: **Wed May 26, 2021 8:36 pm**

Scuffed the last layer up with 220. Removed paint in some places, some others not so much. Got the next coat of paint on. I have to say I'm really happy with how it's looking so far. There are a couple scratches still showing through, so we'll try to work on those before the next coat.

Posted: **Sat May 29, 2021 8:56 pm**

It’s looking great Cameron. No mosquitoes or gnats? That would be a triumph on it’s own.

Posted: **Sat May 29, 2021 10:56 pm**

That does look amazing! be a shame to put that light under a bushel but I suspect the boat wont plane upside down......

Posted: **Sun May 30, 2021 7:36 am**

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Sat May 29, 2021 8:56 pm It’s looking great Cameron. No mosquitoes or gnats? That would be a triumph on it’s own.

I have had some very tiny ones unfortunately. I don't think they affect the outcome too much, though. The ones that have gotten stuck are so small they don't leave much of a spot and just wipe off once it's dried.

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Sat May 29, 2021 10:56 pm That does look amazing! be a shame to put that light under a bushel but I suspect the boat wont plane upside down......

This last coat I did in a rush, so I have a couple runs on the edges, and didn't cover a couple holidays. Gonna clean the runs up and give it one final coat to call it done. First coat I didn't thin at all. This one I think I thinned too much. It definitely leveled even better with a little bit of thinner.

Posted: **Sun May 30, 2021 7:49 am**

I'm having the same issue with trying to get the right thinness. I probably need to start weighing like I do with epoxy, but it seems like the deeper down the can you get, the more thinner it needs. It's a real challenge.

Posted: **Mon May 31, 2021 9:07 pm**

Was out of town this weekend, so not much progress made. I did get all the runs sanded down and I think I'm ready for another coat. If it turns out well enough I expect it to be the final color coat.

With that in mind, I've been considering keel guard options. I was looking at the stick on variety, but they seem kinda bulky and then you still run the risk of it peeling off at some point.
Another one is the 3M stick on car bra material. It's about 8mils thick, so lower profile and even available in clear. Considering the locales that I plan on using this boat, I'm not sure that would be enough if I misjudge the depth over an oyster bed or decide to beach in a shell-rich area. I do think I'll be getting some of this material for the bow where the winch roller comes into contact. Seems like a good use there.
I've noticed on other forums that Line-X has been getting more popular as a keel guard option. They seem to have been able to get it a little smoother than what I'm used to in truck beds. I don't think I want to go that far, but I do have some graphite powder left over and could easily run a strip of graphite/epoxy down just the keel. I think this is my path forward barring any dissenting opinions that may come this week.

I do already have 3ish coats of graphite/epoxy under the paint, so maybe I'm a but too overly cautious, but I'd rather not scuff the paint if I can stand it. I was thinking 3 layers at a 2", 3", and 4" widths would be enough to build and step out so it's not too bulky.

Posted: **Tue Jun 01, 2021 9:13 pm**

Got a coat of paint on this afternoon.

Had one hiccup trying to fix a light area.

That being said, I think we're in the realm of "Better is the enemy of good enough." Barring any additional issues I find in the sunlight tomorrow, she's done. No more paint.

On to the keel guard. I'll let her dry thru tomorrow since I usually don't do much with her on Wednesdays due to other commitments and then start laying out the graphite masking on Thursday.

Posted: **Tue Jun 01, 2021 10:50 pm**

Looks really nice Cameron! I'd be extremely pleased.

On the graphite strip, how/where are you going to terminate it at the bow/stern ends? Seems like it has the potential to be a cool aesthetic feature as well as functional. I'm a sucker for functional ashtetics.

Posted: **Wed Jun 02, 2021 10:52 am**

Plan will be to round it off just below the bow eye. We'll see if my tape cutting skills are on par with yours!

Posted: **Wed Jun 02, 2021 8:48 pm**

Noticed today that Pettit recommends waiting 7 days after paint application before polishing or waxing to ensure full hardness of the paint.

Think I'll wait that before working on the keel guard. That means this weekend shifts to side projects. We'll see how far along I can get the center console and maybe look at starting the baitwell with some insulation foam.

Posted: **Wed Jun 02, 2021 9:18 pm**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 8:48 pm Noticed today that Pettit recommends waiting 7 days after paint application before polishing or waxing to ensure full hardness of the paint.

Think I'll wait that before working on the keel guard. That means this weekend shifts to side projects. We'll see how far along I can get the center console and maybe look at starting the baitwell with some insulation foam.

Forced wait times can be great productivity inducers. But I would think you only need to scuff the area you're adding graphite to, is that not so?

Posted: **Wed Jun 02, 2021 9:20 pm**

Yeah, but covering that area with epoxy may not allow that area to properly outgas/evaporate all solvents. That would leave the area underneath perpetually soft.

Unintended material incompatibilities have been a big deal in my line of work, so I don't want to risk anything.

Posted: **Sat Jun 05, 2021 8:42 am**

Side project. Paracord wrapping the steering wheel. I thought about grey to match the boat, but figured I could use this to add a bit of flair. Found this pattern that's very close to houndstooth. Being a Univ. of Alabama fan(and graduate), I had to have it!

Don't mind the cat toy in the background.

Posted: **Sat Jun 05, 2021 8:05 pm**

No pics, but made some progress today.

Trimmed out the flange on the console to final size. Should be getting close to putting a coat of primer on. We'll see how it goes tomorrow.

Started my baitwell. Cut out the pieces and glued the walls to the base. It's gonna come out to 5ish gallons. It's gonna go in the port side under the aft deck. Should be fine for a few shrimp or pinfish.

Well I got a splash of Acetone on the hull this weekend. I think my heart stopped a bit, but it did nothing to the paint. I think the paint is good and hard. I'll start laying out the keel guard tomorrow and plan for the first application on Monday evening.

Posted: **Sun Jun 06, 2021 1:08 am**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 05, 2021 8:42 am Side project. Paracord wrapping the steering wheel. I thought about grey to match the boat, but figured I could use this to add a bit of flair. Found this pattern that's very close to houndstooth. Being a Univ. of Alabama fan(and graduate), I had to have it!

Don't mind the cat toy in the background.

Dang guy can't you leave the man in peace? He has been long gone and buried. New regime has been doing a pretty darn good job.

Tom

Posted: **Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:03 am**

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 9:20 pm Yeah, but covering that area with epoxy may not allow that area to properly outgas/evaporate all solvents. That would leave the area underneath perpetually soft.

Ah, understood. That's smart thinking.

Posted: **Mon Jun 07, 2021 7:29 pm**

First coat of the graphite/epoxy keel guard down. 2nd coat will cover everything exposed in this photo. 3rd will be about 4 inches wide.

Not the straighest of tape lines, but I didn't put a ton of effort into it. For what it is, I think it'll be fine.

Posted: **Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:37 pm**

Keel Guard application complete. Ready for the flip back rightside.

Posted: **Thu Jun 10, 2021 6:33 am**

Cameron, that's a great idea and looks like flawless execution. Your bottom looks pretty perfect, great work. I suspect some future builders will be borrowing that concept.

Posted: **Thu Jun 10, 2021 6:35 am**

Thanks! The lines weeble wobble around a bit...Could have been prevented with a laser level, but it'll be mostly inconspicuous once flipped over.

Posted: **Thu Jun 10, 2021 7:39 am**

That’s a really interesting move. I’ve been researching the epoxy/graphite subject and haven’t come across a narrow “keel guard” approach like that. If I recall, you also have full bottom coverage under the paint too, right?

Posted: **Thu Jun 10, 2021 7:43 am**

Nice work!!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Jun 10, 2021 8:54 am**

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 7:39 am That’s a really interesting move. I’ve been researching the epoxy/graphite subject and haven’t come across a narrow “keel guard” approach like that. If I recall, you also have full bottom coverage under the paint too, right?

Yeah the whole bottom is covered under the paint, but didn't want an entirely black bottom.

Posted: **Sat Jun 12, 2021 9:21 am**

First coat of primer on the console.

My buddy that has helped with flips has been out of pocket, so I convinced my wife to help with the flip. Things got a little hairy about halfway, but we were able to get her back over in one piece.

Onwards and upwards!

Posted: **Fri Jun 18, 2021 8:52 pm**

Progress has been slow this week.

On the boat, I cut and installed 50% of the sole cleats. Mostly got all the easy ones out of the way before the ones along the Frames B and D that have no real reference for positioning. I made some chase tube supports, just need to get those bonded in place.

Most of the time spent this week was on the console and figuring out where all the holes needed to go. Cut it all out today. I still have the round one on the seat bottom to finish opening up to size.

Left side opening is a fire extinguisher cabinet. Right side is the throttle, the forward seat back is just an access to the inside for electrical connections. Seat bottom is fuel tank access and the back bottom is a hatch to access the fuze block and battery switch.

Posted: **Fri Jun 18, 2021 9:41 pm**

Looking good guy. Tom

Posted: **Mon Jun 21, 2021 8:18 am**

That’s like a whole other project to figure out and keep you busy. It’s looking real good.

Posted: **Mon Jun 21, 2021 8:24 am**

Nice work bamaguy0!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Jun 22, 2021 10:47 pm**

No progress made Saturday as we entertained some of my wife's family from the Tampa area. Smoked some pork butts and a good time was had by all.

Last minute work trip had me fly out of town on Sunday afternoon and I got home late Monday night.

Amazon Prime day resulted in me ordering some NOCO Genius battery chargers. Got a 10 amp for my trolling motor battery and a 5 amp for the cranking battery. Will mount them close to their respective batteries with an AC plug in the console and a split cable on the inside routing to the two. With the split battery setup that's the best I could come up with. The chargers don't allow extensions on the 12V side due to temperature sensing capabilities unfortunately. It will require some additional chase tubes because the 1" pvc for my 12VDC wiring is too small to fit a 3 prong AC cord through. I think it's also good practice (probably ABYC requirement) to keep DC and AC power separate anyway. Added another hole in the console for that. Also finished taking the round tank access hole in the console to size. At this point there should be no more access holes added to the console.

I did a fit check with the tank in position and the console over it. I didn't account for the sole cleat on the forward side of Frame C. That made tank clearance inside the console very tight. I trimmed the cleat around the tank so that I can get it closer to the Frame and have a little more air space all around inside the console.

Problem 2 was noticed as well. I designed the width of the console slightly less than the stringer spacing width. That means my original plan of tee nuts in the sole for fastening down the console won't fly because I would need to place clearance notches in the stringers for the screws to run through. Doesn't seem wise. My current solution will be adhesive bonded studs on the bottom side of the sole. With a forstner bit I can make a shallow pocket, bond the stud in place flush with the bottom side and then use nuts on the top side to secure the console. I might get creative and use barrel nuts so it looks like screws still, but I need to check the stackup and see if that will work or not. Not a crazy problem to overcome, just requires specialty hardware. More to come on this. It's back of the mind at least for another week or so.

Main focus the rest of the week will be to get the chase tubes finalized and glued in place. From there I can finish the sole cleats. Hopefully by this weekend I can start work on the fuel tank mounts and the forward bulkhead/closeout for the tank opening in the sole.

Posted: **Sun Jun 27, 2021 9:12 pm**

Don't think I made as much progress as my last update had hoped for, but it's progress nonetheless.

Worked out fuel tank mounts using some of the cedar strips my father and I cut out back at Thanksgiving, I don't have to do anything fancy but bond them level. Their thickness sets the tank just above the drain tube and the thickest part of the bond joint will be about .25". Made a hardware order this weekend, so that will be in Tuesday more than likely and I can get that installed.

Glued in most of the tubes for wiring and cabling. I ran out of the epoxy Friday so i had to wait on another kit to arrive today. Isn't Amazon wonderful?(Don't answer that)

I used West Systems G/Flex 655 as some internet research indicated it was one of the better options for adhesion to PVC. The tubes got a good 60 grit roughing followed by solvent wipe of Acetone. The instructions said you COULD flame treat, but wasn't necessary for PVC.

One of the other "problems" that I realized I created was I put a drain tube from the forward deck area under the sole to the aft, but didn't plan on a drain for the fuel tank cavity forward of Frame C. What I noticed was my Frame cutouts for the drain tube all were cut vertically after the hole was drilled so I had additional passages that could be utilized. I went a size up on PVC and then cut out about a 15 degree section.

Then I glued that piece over the tube running between Frames C and D. I ensured that the side passages remained clear when gluing down the original drain tube and then applied some epoxy down the spine of the tube as well. After placing the larger tube over the top I made generous fillets down each side. I plan on testing this sooner rather than later just to make sure it works as intended. I obviously don't expect to accumulate water around the fuel tank since it's covered by the console, but I didn't want to not have a plan for it either.

Did a little work on the livewell, although that's a tertiary task for now. I glassed the ouside seams and then bonded on the secondary floor for the drain area. From here I'll smooth out that transition a little more and then glass the inside.

Console work has been slow. Just filling pits and pinholes missed initally and smoothing out the transition on the flange. Hindsight being 20/20, I would have done something different for creating the flange on the console. I found what appears to be a better method that I will use for the livewell. Anyway, I should be ready for another coat of primer on the console tomorrow. We'll see if I'm pleased well enough after this last touch up of filler.

I feel like I'm in the home stretch of finishing out the sole area. I have the 2 AC cord tubes to glue in and then cement all the elbows and trim them to sole height. Gotta bond the tank mount down and close out the tank cavity. Some final cleat work, and then she'll be ready for foam I think.

Posted: **Sun Jun 27, 2021 9:32 pm**

Great progress!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Jul 02, 2021 11:20 am**

Decent progress this week.

I glued all of the elbows in place. Realized I made a mistake with my steering and throttle cable tube. Originally I had planned on making 1.5" PVC, but realized I needed to step it up to 2" once I tried running the steering cable through. When I did that I did not add any additional length to the tube so the point where the elbow starts to come up thru the floor shifted aft. This was right where the back flange of the console sits.

I trimmed the elbow back to where it's basically a short straight extension then added another elbow to that. That seemed to have shifted it forward just enough.

Once my fuel tank mount hardware came in, I glued in the carriage bolts and then then next day bonded the mounts into the hull. I used some scrap rubrail pieces to maintain spacing and to keep them somewhat level to each other.

After that cured, I finished the mounts up with a coat of epoxy and a good fillet around the outside and then bonded in the tank compartment bulkhead.

I've made a checklist at this point to finish out the sole. If y'all notice anything missing let me know.

Posted: **Fri Jul 02, 2021 12:04 pm**

Nice progress!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Jul 04, 2021 9:08 pm**

Progress from today:

Got all the elbows trimmed close to sole level. I planned for them to be a tad long and will trim down as needed once the sole is down. Remainder of the sole cleats are in and curing. Ill start working with the sole halves tomorrow and getting the cutouts located so it drops right in. You can see my reworked cable tube. I tried using a torch to heat it up and flex it down a bit, but the torch was a bit too hot. I abandoned that idea and will just roll with it.

Also glassed the inside of the live well.

Happy 4th!

Posted: **Mon Jul 05, 2021 8:40 am**

Nice progress bamaguy0!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Jul 05, 2021 4:52 pm**

Looking good Cameron.

I don’t have console and therefore haven’t had to deal with chase tubes penetrating the sole vertically. I’m sure it’s common practice, but I’m curious how you deal with potential water intrusion into the tubes if they are cut flush with the sole? Is the console itself designed to prevent that? If water does happen to get in - is there a way for it to get back out?

Posted: **Mon Jul 05, 2021 9:05 pm**

Off work today, so I was hard at it. Made some great progress I think. I just need to foam the inside and join the sole together. I've heard/read that the foam works better in lower humidity, so that will likely wait at least until Elsa passes by. I'm not in the path, but I anticipate plenty of rain over the next few days. Low humidity and Florida summers don't go together, but I'll give it the best chance it's got.

Most of the work today involved getting the soles cut out with all the various and sundry holes for tubes and the fuel tank and console.

First was the chase tubes. The cable tube was a bugger as anticipated. Had to do some filing on the bottom side to get it to clear.

Here you can see both sides completed.

Next was the cutout for the fuel tank.

At this point I sat the console in place and marked it on the sole pieces. Also staged the aft deck for this photo. Just wanted to see how it all looked. I have to admit I got a little giddy at this point. Now remember the deck is long here, yet to be trimmed to Frame D.

After these pics, I drilled mounting holes into the console then sat it back down onto the sole. I used the same size bit to "punch" marks into the sole to identify hole locations to drill. Drilled those out, and from here will join the sole together. After the sole is joined, I'm going to install carriage bolts underneath the sole. The observant among you will notice a gap in the front. That gap is because I cut out the sole halves in the initial cut of pieces and later decided to move Frame B forward to give the console more room. I'll have to make a 3rd piece to fill that in.

I also glued in a "septum" for the console to isolate the fuel tank area from the rest of the console. The septum aligns with Frame C and will be sealed down to it to avoid any potiental vapors from migrating over to my electrical bits.

Posted: **Mon Jul 05, 2021 9:12 pm**

Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Mon Jul 05, 2021 4:52 pm Looking good Cameron.

I don’t have console and therefore haven’t had to deal with chase tubes penetrating the sole vertically. I’m sure it’s common practice, but I’m curious how you deal with potential water intrusion into the tubes if they are cut flush with the sole? Is the console itself designed to prevent that? If water does happen to get in - is there a way for it to get back out?

So my intention was that the tubes be slightly proud of the sole and I would run a fillet of glue around them, but as you can see in my latest update that didn't happen. I'm thinking I'll build up a small ring around each hole with epoxy. I might even have enough PVC left over in each size to glue one down. I plan to 4200 the console down to the sole so I would not expect water intrusion, but even then I plan to do something. They will not be flush.

Posted: **Thu Jul 08, 2021 10:54 pm**

I got antsy and foamed tonight. Once I got in a rhythm it went pretty smoothly. I'd say it's probably 80%, but I wanted to stop and trim before going any further. That used up nearly an entire 2 gallon kit. I think I have about a half gallon left, so I want to be strategic in my next pours.

You'll notice a mess in the tank cavity...
I was originally going to make a closeout for the frame around the pipes, but then I thought...ya know the foam will fill that void and I can just epoxy it from the inside to really ensure it's sealed up. So I poured some in the corner and it expanded well into the cavity beyond what I expected. I scooped a lot of it up before it set, but will have to clean up a little bit more mechanically. That forward carriage bolt was entirely covered with foam. I at least got that cleaned up and useable. That was my only panic event with the foam so far.