When I rebuilt my Sintes 21 and added a bracket she ended up being too tail heavy. Even when I took my 240 pounds all the way to the bow it did not stop it. The only way I got control of things was with trim tabs. It needs some tab at any speed but at least now she will run 40 without porpoising.bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 06, 2022 8:13 pm It looks like my theory on porpoising may be off. Lowering may not help but actually hurt. Drawing the force vectors in my head I think I understand why. I saw a little bit of cavitation as well trimmed up slightly so I think dropping it some will help in that regard. I'm just gonna have to find the happy median and then treat the porpoising if still present. This is really going to only be a problem when I'm alone I suspect, but for the near term that's probably going to be the majority of my use case.
It seems the internet is keen on trim tabs. I'm guessing it seems to come up a lot when folks repower from 2strokes to heavier 4strokes.
Cameron's FS14LS+5%
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Been working on some final touches after the last test run.
First I finished putting down the foam decking. Got a ruler design that fit between the speakers on bulkhead B.
And I placed what I had left on the gunwale walls to prevent reels from knocking around.
Got spring hatch supports for 3 of the hatches.
3rd being the bilge hatch.
I have a gas strut for the big fore locker hatch, but I'm waiting on the end pieces to come in. Maybe tomorrow.
And I went ahead and mounted my Bennett SLT spring loaded trim tabs.
One of the other projects I had to do was after the last run I noticed a leak at the water separator fuel filter I put in. First I removed and resealed a fitting that I thought was the culprit. That didn't fix it, so I got a new kit and completely replaced it. I didn't want to spend the time troubleshooting. Finished install on that kit and no leaks to be seen. I'll double check in the morning and we'll call it good. That's why I hadn't installed the 3rd hatch support so I had more room to work in the bilge area.
I did place an order for a Permatrim cavitation plate, but after a week of waiting on any info I was told they didn't have Yamaha grey in stock. SIM Yamaha is the only US distributor and they're waiting on a stock replenishment. I cancelled the order and ordered an OZ Hydrofoil on ebay. They are both very similar aluminum plates with turn downs on the side to help keep water funneled over the prop. The nice part is they're powdercoated in typical outboard colors so it looks about as factory as it can get. It claims it will arrive in about a week even from Australia, so we'll run without for now.
I also found an aluminum Solas Amita 4 blade prop on clearance at Overton's website for dirt cheap today. Figured it was worth a shot to see how it performs. If I like it I may order a SS prop after a season or so. I'm hoping I can get the OZ Hydrofoil and 4 blade on before my trip the following weekend with VT_Jeff, but we'll see.
All in all, I think she's ready for a real trip now. My parents are coming in Friday night and my dad and I will head out to Mosquito Lagoon on Saturday and put her to the real test as well as attempt to get the first fish landed from it. I want to do some poling and see how that goes. Should be exciting even if no fish are caught.
First I finished putting down the foam decking. Got a ruler design that fit between the speakers on bulkhead B.
And I placed what I had left on the gunwale walls to prevent reels from knocking around.
Got spring hatch supports for 3 of the hatches.
3rd being the bilge hatch.
I have a gas strut for the big fore locker hatch, but I'm waiting on the end pieces to come in. Maybe tomorrow.
And I went ahead and mounted my Bennett SLT spring loaded trim tabs.
One of the other projects I had to do was after the last run I noticed a leak at the water separator fuel filter I put in. First I removed and resealed a fitting that I thought was the culprit. That didn't fix it, so I got a new kit and completely replaced it. I didn't want to spend the time troubleshooting. Finished install on that kit and no leaks to be seen. I'll double check in the morning and we'll call it good. That's why I hadn't installed the 3rd hatch support so I had more room to work in the bilge area.
I did place an order for a Permatrim cavitation plate, but after a week of waiting on any info I was told they didn't have Yamaha grey in stock. SIM Yamaha is the only US distributor and they're waiting on a stock replenishment. I cancelled the order and ordered an OZ Hydrofoil on ebay. They are both very similar aluminum plates with turn downs on the side to help keep water funneled over the prop. The nice part is they're powdercoated in typical outboard colors so it looks about as factory as it can get. It claims it will arrive in about a week even from Australia, so we'll run without for now.
I also found an aluminum Solas Amita 4 blade prop on clearance at Overton's website for dirt cheap today. Figured it was worth a shot to see how it performs. If I like it I may order a SS prop after a season or so. I'm hoping I can get the OZ Hydrofoil and 4 blade on before my trip the following weekend with VT_Jeff, but we'll see.
All in all, I think she's ready for a real trip now. My parents are coming in Friday night and my dad and I will head out to Mosquito Lagoon on Saturday and put her to the real test as well as attempt to get the first fish landed from it. I want to do some poling and see how that goes. Should be exciting even if no fish are caught.
- cape man
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Hope the trim tabs do the trick!
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Some very nice work, also hope the Bennett tabs work for you, have heard good things about them.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Man, that's all clean as a whistle. Looks great!
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
The time has come...go get some fish slime on that deck!
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
I looked at hatch openers but what I found was crazy pricey, would be interested in what you got, so if they rust etc I can blame you instead!
Boat looks great, go go gadget skiff!
Boat looks great, go go gadget skiff!
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Jeff - I assume you are referring to hatch stays or gas struts. I looked at both options and yes, struts (SS) for my 3 hatches was going to run about $200. I chose to go with the spring stays since I don’t really need any lift assist and I just want the lid to stay open - and not accidentally get forced too open to where something has to give. I think I paid $15 each for the stays (304 SS) from boat outfitters (really like this company). Just received them and they appear to be high quality. I wish they were 316, but we’ll see.
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
My spring stays are Sea Dog 304 stainless at about 15 each. The gas strut is Whitecap stainless body at just under 40. Then I had to find stainless gas strut brackets. Those are Sea Dog as well.
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
For keeping a hatch open I went with the friction hinges from gemlux: https://gemlux.com/collections/marine-f ... e-2-75x1-5
I really like them as they are 316 stainless and keep the hatch open in whatever position you leave it.
One thing to watch out for is that they will apply way more force where your hinge attaches to the hatch. For thin plywood hatches I think this would be a problem. I embedded a piece of g10 to drill and tap everywhere a hinge attaches to a hatch to spread the load.
You can see the g10 inserts in this pic of my hatches
And how it hold the hatch here
I really like them as they are 316 stainless and keep the hatch open in whatever position you leave it.
One thing to watch out for is that they will apply way more force where your hinge attaches to the hatch. For thin plywood hatches I think this would be a problem. I embedded a piece of g10 to drill and tap everywhere a hinge attaches to a hatch to spread the load.
You can see the g10 inserts in this pic of my hatches
And how it hold the hatch here
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