Woods Flica 34

Sail Boats 15' and up. Please include the boat type in your question.
mariobrothers88
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Woods Flica 34

Post by mariobrothers88 »

Hi guys I'm building the woods flica 34' catamaran. I've finished cutting out the bulkheads and I'm going to be adding the 1"x3" timbers to frame the bulkheads. The build is plywood and epoxy. I'm planning to construct the strongback. The plan calls for 2 long 2"x5" timbers spaced 600mm apart and 2"x2" timbers to support the bulkhead pieces. I am planning to use a laser level to make sure everything is level and square, do I also need to use the plumb bob/spirit method (as detailed in the Gourgeon brothers book) or is the laser level enough?

I have a flat piece of raw land that I will be leveling, putting a layer of gravel, a tarp and then building the strongback on top of that. I have four tall concrete walls but no roof, I was thinking of just putting a few heavy duty tarps on top of crossbeam timbers to act as a temporary roof to keep off the rain and sun. Any suggestions for improving the setup would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks so much in advance!

And special thanks to Fallguy for introducing me to this amazing community!!



fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Flica 34

Post by fallguy1000 »

Hello Ron-

I recommend you use something wider than 5" for the strongback. And don't built it until you frame a cover.

The laser is the best. You want it on a tripod.

I also recommend a high quality and new 4' level. I bought an Empire from HD for about $150.

Drill your laser guideholes at 3/16 or 1/4". You will find it challenging to get the light through, but eventually you will.

Submit some pictures of the build site. I am a fairly knowledgeable builder and can advise what I would do at least. I think you said the walls were 5' high, but not sure length or width.

Get the build site covered before you go much further. If you buy some commercial trusses; you can windbrace them and sell them when done and not lose too much money for common sizes, but 5' is pretty low and you almost need to stub an 8' wall up for that or find a hoop tent that could work.

The Tijuana sun will destroy your epoxy in about 60 days!

It will yellow, weaken, and chalk out.
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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Flica 34

Post by fallguy1000 »

Use these for ground anchors woth short 4x4 uprights. I would use either a 2x8,10,12 for the strongback. 2x12s are nice for scaffold planks later

https://www.amazon.com/CRIZTA-Anchor-Gr ... ljaz10cnVl
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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Flica 34

Post by fallguy1000 »

You will need to take eqch hull to painted before starting the next step to protect them from sun damage.
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mariobrothers88
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Re: Woods Flica 34

Post by mariobrothers88 »

Thanks Fallguy!

Two of the walls are 15' tall, the other wall is the side of the house which is over 20' tall (see attached photo). I was thinking of building a simple wall frame out of 2x4's in the middle (red in the photo) and then attaching heavy duty tarps (blue in the photo) from the concrete walls to the wooden wall. In case of rain, the water will all collect in the middle and i was thinking of collecting it into a half cut 4" pvc drain pipe.

Also for the strongback how do you recommend I attach the 2x12" timbers to make 34' total? Scarf joints? Or overlap the timbers?

Thanks for all the advice!!!

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Re: Woods Flica 34

Post by fallguy1000 »

Just get 6 timbers 2x12 12' long and lap them. Install four or 8 post anchors into the ground with 4x4s. The strongback doesn't need to be straight; just fairly level. The frames need to be installed straight and perfectly level to a hole in the waterline.. Keep the strongback timbers about 2 feet apart or 3.

For your picture, try it again. Once you figure out how; posting pics here is ez.
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Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: Woods Flica 34

Post by Evan_Gatehouse »

Hi,

I'd just say spend the time to make sure the strongback as level and accurate as possible.

i owned a fiberglass Woods Meander but there was a lot of plywood and timbers in the bulkheads / decking. Feel free to ask questions here. I also cruised Mexico on 2 different boats for about 3 years total and loved the country and its people. Can't say enough good things about it.
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
SK17,MM21/MT24

fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Flica 34

Post by fallguy1000 »

Evan is right. If your strongback is not level; you need to do a lot of shimming and shimming is less than ideal.

By the way, I epoxied the shims in on my build as we did have a few and I did not want them to fall out and the jig to fall.
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mariobrothers88
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Re: Woods Flica 34

Post by mariobrothers88 »

Today I glued some timbers to bulkheads, did roundovers with the router on the stringers, and cut out notches in the bulkheads for the stringers. Fun times.

To join the hull panels, Richard Woods suggests just using butt straps to simplify the process but I could scarf the hull panels together as well. I scarfed the keel panels with the router and a jig I built, but the jig would be too small to scarf a big sheet of plywood. Do you guys recommend scarfing the hull panels and what is your preferred method to scarf them?

I am currently planning the build site still, and I was wondering what is the best way to turn the hulls over? I was thinking of using 2x4s to build a temporary roof covered with heavy duty tarp. I would have to make it strong enough to flip the hull.

Thanks for all the help and advice guys, I really appreciate it!!
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fallguy1000
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Re: Woods Flica 34

Post by fallguy1000 »

Butt seams are acceptable, but I would probably build a scarfing jig and scarf 8-12 to one.

If you butt seam or scrarf; make sure the panels are aligned perfectly straight. I have seen where guys are not careful enough and the joint moves.

Shipping tape works well for releasing. I buy gorilla 2" wide ship tape and use it here whenever I don't want epoxy to stick.

So, for the edge of a board used as a panel dog to keep things straightt; you put a piece of tape there..

The best way to flip the flica hulls is beer and friends.

Skoota32 hulls are about 1200 pounds or more to 1600 to flip. I built a homemade gantry with timbers. We used 4 harbor freight manual chain hoosts and had a lot of control that way and one man would be able to flip alone.

Two by fours will be pretty weak unless built as a truss. You moght consoder building some really beefy turning rafters into your tent frame from something bigger if u can't find a flipping team. I would find some clear 2x10/12 and make a couple monster rafters, but manpower is best.

I just didn't have great faith flipping 1200-1600 pounds. Any idea on hull weights after sheathing?
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