I would think you need to run those sole panels to the hullsides.
The ibeams are transverse members, not longitudinals.
Hoping you did not laminate those sole panels. They look like raw core, so easy to add to..
On the hull edge, you would glue and tab a cleat. Then if you have large spans between the hull and stringer bed, you'd add the beams.
Sorry if I created confusion. Always remember to sketch up questions; it helps us avoid misinterpretation.
Not sure what you have planned, but cabinets or lockers need that extended to the hull.
LB26
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Re: LB26
You are probably wondering how the heck are they going to fit...
Well, the way I would do it is to install the i beams transverse, so they are under the seams..to get them in span centers or so the sole pieces fit may require some figuring.
Then you laminate and trim the panel bottoms, fit them and glue them down and laminate the top and tab them all around to seal the deck. Bear in mind the hour here is 4am and I am super sleepy, dozing off, so please discuss further before acting on my advice. The building notes I did not review.
Well, the way I would do it is to install the i beams transverse, so they are under the seams..to get them in span centers or so the sole pieces fit may require some figuring.
Then you laminate and trim the panel bottoms, fit them and glue them down and laminate the top and tab them all around to seal the deck. Bear in mind the hour here is 4am and I am super sleepy, dozing off, so please discuss further before acting on my advice. The building notes I did not review.
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Re: LB26
Can you pull that sole up and take a picture?
I can explain it better. You will need to widen the bulkhead a bit to make it easier to glue and the i beam is only an intermediate for wide spans..
I can explain it better. You will need to widen the bulkhead a bit to make it easier to glue and the i beam is only an intermediate for wide spans..
Re: LB26
The plans are not clear about that, sorry.
The section at frame D shows a line all across as if the cockpit sole extended all the way to the sides but the cockpit sections show a "hanging" cockpit sole.
Each way has pros and cons.
The full sole extending all the way across is strong but requires a bunch of openings in particular for the air intake. the seam between that sole and the sides is a stiffener but with a sandwich side, we don't need that extra stiffening.
The hanging sole provides enough air and gives nice access to all the rigging and plumbing but it should sit on something. Your solution of longitudinal supports is good. Extending the outside stringers is also good and probably easier if it leaves enough access to the sides of the engine. Those supports will need openings for access.
The support beams (pillars) are not bad since they leave a lot of access to all the inside.
You choose, each solution is good and is trade between access and stiffness.
Sole stiffness is important around the engine cover.
The section at frame D shows a line all across as if the cockpit sole extended all the way to the sides but the cockpit sections show a "hanging" cockpit sole.
Each way has pros and cons.
The full sole extending all the way across is strong but requires a bunch of openings in particular for the air intake. the seam between that sole and the sides is a stiffener but with a sandwich side, we don't need that extra stiffening.
The hanging sole provides enough air and gives nice access to all the rigging and plumbing but it should sit on something. Your solution of longitudinal supports is good. Extending the outside stringers is also good and probably easier if it leaves enough access to the sides of the engine. Those supports will need openings for access.
The support beams (pillars) are not bad since they leave a lot of access to all the inside.
You choose, each solution is good and is trade between access and stiffness.
Sole stiffness is important around the engine cover.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: LB26
Hi All
At last back in the boat shed after our trip to the UK.
Not spending too much time in the shed at the moment as it is very hot !!!
Decided to cut the shaft log out and replace with a new one.... not an easy job but was not happy with the position, think I have found out where I went wrong so hopefully fit the new one tomorrow which will give me peace of mind.
At last I think I have found a company to manufacture the fuel tanks, it has taken ages to find a supplier. In the end I have found a company in Germany, sent them all the details so awaiting the cost
Can someone let me know if there are does and do nots regarding drilling stringers and main frames to allow any water that gets in to go to the bilge pump.
Thanks for your last reply Jacques, I have an idea for supporting the soul around the engine, I will sketch it up so you can comment.
Regarding matting for under the fuel tanks, is there anything I should know ?
Cheers
Les
At last back in the boat shed after our trip to the UK.
Not spending too much time in the shed at the moment as it is very hot !!!
Decided to cut the shaft log out and replace with a new one.... not an easy job but was not happy with the position, think I have found out where I went wrong so hopefully fit the new one tomorrow which will give me peace of mind.
At last I think I have found a company to manufacture the fuel tanks, it has taken ages to find a supplier. In the end I have found a company in Germany, sent them all the details so awaiting the cost
Can someone let me know if there are does and do nots regarding drilling stringers and main frames to allow any water that gets in to go to the bilge pump.
Thanks for your last reply Jacques, I have an idea for supporting the soul around the engine, I will sketch it up so you can comment.
Regarding matting for under the fuel tanks, is there anything I should know ?
Cheers
Les
Re: LB26
For the fuel tanks, fabricate a cardboard mock-up and check the following:
- support (neoprene ads or equivalent)
- straps and access to straps
- bottom drain if you want that. I like the decanter cup type but you may loose height.
- access to pickup, vent, fill and access to the clamps for all those hoses.
Do all that before paying for the tanks.
- support (neoprene ads or equivalent)
- straps and access to straps
- bottom drain if you want that. I like the decanter cup type but you may loose height.
- access to pickup, vent, fill and access to the clamps for all those hoses.
Do all that before paying for the tanks.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: LB26
Hi les here is a company that allows you to calculate tank volume by inches to determine how many gallons it will hold. You can then convert to metric https://speedytanks.com/build-your-tank/ Then they recommend this way to fasten the tanks down. http://www.marinesurvey.com/yacht/fueltank.htm The only thing you will have to do will tell your German supplier after determining the size you need is where you need the fittings placed. You will want the fill and vent at the front of the tank and the gas gauge at the rear. You will need a ground wire from the fuel fill to the tank and from the tank to the ground bar. Don't forget to leave room for fixtures on top when measuring height, 3-4" is good.
Well hope this helps.
Tom
Well hope this helps.
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: LB26
Tanks in the US are required to be diurnal and the venting requires charcoal canister which you need to have space alloted for.. You will need to know if the surveyor or local authority in Greece will require it.
Access to all tank fittings is required and if you use metal fills; that is required to be bonded to house grounds.
All hoses on tanks ought to be double clamped in opposite screw directions.
And fuel tanks ought to be pressure tested after installation to 2-3psi overnite.
Neoprene pads are typically set in 5200 and then the tanks can be set on top of the neoprene. If you fab the tanks well, holding them down from the top is ideal. Or you can use hard plastic angle irons to avoid galvanics.
I don't care to argue with any other contributors about diurnal tanks. Do what is required!
Access to all tank fittings is required and if you use metal fills; that is required to be bonded to house grounds.
All hoses on tanks ought to be double clamped in opposite screw directions.
And fuel tanks ought to be pressure tested after installation to 2-3psi overnite.
Neoprene pads are typically set in 5200 and then the tanks can be set on top of the neoprene. If you fab the tanks well, holding them down from the top is ideal. Or you can use hard plastic angle irons to avoid galvanics.
I don't care to argue with any other contributors about diurnal tanks. Do what is required!
Re: LB26
fallguy do you even know what a diurnal tank is? It is one that has a positive pressure >1lb to prevent emissions to escape to the atmosphere. The ABYC and EPA worked together on this. This is nothing new and has been in effect since 2015 as part of the 2013 regulations. I do not know if the European regs require the same reg though they are pretty strict on emissions.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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