LB26

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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

I have to read up on the transom laminating.

I was providing a generalization is all that biggest
Pieces are first.

Not gonna look now, but if you are uncertain about how to glass the transom, then ask again.
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Jacques

Can you have a look at my last post and give any comments please.

Cheers

Les

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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

A metallic shaft log is OK but a fiberglass one is much easier to glass to the hull. Are we talking about the shaft log or the cutlass bearing?
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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

The LB26 does not have an engine mounted on the transom, so the layup may be different than an outboard design. If no wraps are stated; don't.

A two layer lamination must not have overlaps in the same places; that is fundamental.

I prefer to dryfit everything first. And I use sharpies to mark all details, including a mark on the hull and glass for lengths, every 3-5 feet. This is to make sure you are not too short or long at the end, or confused. Then I roll the pieces up on cardboard tubes and label them in order of laying. So, say 6 pieces, #1 is first to go on.

A picture of where you are at may help.

For rather thick tapes; it is difficult to laminate edges without air entraining. And for this reason, I really advise to use a 4-6" trowel and precoat the tape edges on the bottom with thickened epoxy, which will prevent the tape thicknesses from affording air entrainment. It takes maybe 10 oz of epoxy give or take, but cheap i surance against future delam or trying to repair air lines along the tapes.

Large boats are very difficult to reach the middle when the edges are wet. It is probably better to work wet on green versus wet on wet. What does this mean? Well, let's say you prep the work on Thursday. Friday morning; you can lay the first layer and Friday evening; you can lay the 2nd layer. I believe you will need some scaffolding to make the job easier to walk. A step ldder is too slow to keep moving.

Also, wirk layer by layer;not side to side.

And make sure you have a good consolidation roller. I really won't work without a bubble buster.

If you have any not flat areas or a keel or skeg, those need to be done separately and before the large areas. I can't recall how the skeg on the LB is done, but it may he done after. Point is if glued on now; laminate first.
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Hi Jacques

The shaft log.

If I go stainless is there any advice on bonding it to the fibre glass.

Thanks

Les

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

I profess zero expertise on bonding steel to glass.

I would think 5200 would be the way to fly. Then the hull need to be solid glass or a core capable for bolting so it can't crush. What are you using for high density core? I am not sure 12# is enough for that......?

I don't know how much to rough up the log for the bond, but perhaps 40 grit sanding won't mess it up. The bolts do much of the work.

Then you have to add the shaft log into bonding system if metal.
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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

for JM
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jacquesmm
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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

Bonding to SS is difficult. If you sand SS, you remove the protective layer and it may break down.
Use a fiberglass shaft log.
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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

We are cross posting. I replied in another thread: go for a fiberglass shaft log, you can build it yourself, it's just a fiberglass tube.
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Jacques

I have been studying the stringer and soul details and threads ( the recent one to Faith ) and Dan's input. I think I am reasonably happy but would it be possible to send me the detail section you sent to Faith so I can compare ?
By the way I am going to build the shaft log in fibreglass as you suggest.

Fibreglassing going well, final sanding tomorrow ready for final layer of woven .... and yes it is one hell of a big hull to laminate alone but very satisfying !!!

Cheers

Les

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