LB26

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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

I have some good fairing tips.

Use a straightedge and run it over the hull on a 45 and 'learn' the curves of the hull. Write the fill amounts needed at each location in pencil.

Long board sanding is required. Use 40-60 grit, but stop at glass and don't sand into it; especially if you drop to 40. I only use 40 on bad high spots and 60 on the longboard. Writing fill amounts like 1mm, 0.5mm, or 3mm will really shorten the work and eliminate guessing.

Do not do corners until the flat sections are decent. Fill all major fill or deep fills first. I call it the bulldozer method. Biggest stuff first and eventually, less and less compound.

Always keep compounds on a flat board to slow their kick times.

Use hard concrete trowels. Drywall trowels float over too much and add to sanding. I have a 12 and 14" concrete trowel.

Good luck. Follow the pencil trick. It pays off bigtime.
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Hi Guys

Cheers Dan, fairing going ok so far... My alcohol intake is going up though !!!

Question for all. My plan once faired and ready for paint is to prime the hull but finish paint the bottom. once flipped it will sit on a purpose made cradle with some old carpet to protect the finished paint. Any problems with this ???

If this is ok I will need to prepare the platform for the shaft strut ready to take the strut at a later date as I do not want to damage the finished paint.

Jacques a question regarding the rudder

I have been looking into the Vetus rudders as suggested on the drawings. the nearest I can find to the dimensions shown is the RUD4040 this though is larger than the drawing.

Sorry but I have a question on Tabbing.... The keel, the drawing shows what looks like 3 layers of cloth, at the widest point the cloth would be 762mm and then decreasing with each layer. The scantlings only refer to taping 2 layers each side.
Can someone clear this one up for me.

Cheers

Les

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

I primed, then flipped and no bottom paint because bottom paint is best applied at the end. But you can apply finishes now; really up to you and the paint choice. Classic anti-fouling paints slough off, so mucj depends on paint.

The skeg must be glassed, so I think the three
Layers are glass and two tabs. But the schedule is missing or a bit off for the skeg.

I was not able to clearly find the schedule for glassing the skeg, but here is what I would do...

Lay one larger piece of 1708 over the entire skeg and onto the hull 150mm each side.

Lay one piece 100mm narrower over entire skeg, or a 100mm each side onto hull.

Lay a last piece of 1708 or 1808 or even lighter cloth over the skeg to 50mm each side.

Then no tabbing is needed and you have some good resistance to damaging the skeg from impact. The skeg lamination schedule is a little unclear to me. It clearly states two tabs of db120, but personally not a fan of that in the schedule. And I generally like the schedule..jist not here.

It can be hard to laminate a skeg. Make sure the edges are rounded and the fillets habe either cured and are sanded or they have gelled a bit. Gelled fillets are a bit stickier. When you lay the glass, mark the centerlines on the dry glass and a centerline on the skeg with a sharpie to make laying easier. I would wet the pieces on a table and plastic first; then roll them off and on; with the starting spots marked. This will help you get them set wothout too mucj alcohol later required. Never pull on the inside corners on the hull with the roller. Inside corners only get pushed into.

So, you lay the glass one layer at a time using sharpie lines, then fold it over the skeg and wrap it and into the corners and then to the hull. Then you roll the top and sides down to the corner, then you remove air in the corner to the edges and then you push the glass woth one directional rolling to the corner and not pulling out ever. You'll see what happens if you roll outwards; it'll develop air and you'll want oozo. Then do the next one and then a third. You may want to go slow and allow the bottom layer to gel, up to you...it might be passed gel time for all three, so your table plastic may get gooey as this sounds like about 2 hours work to me to do well.

See if JM disagrees or wants more than 3x1708 here.

An alternative would be to wrap the skeg only to the sides and reduce each layer by one inch and allow it to cure and then tab the skeg to the hull. A little easier for amateurs because you don't have all the curves to fight.

i'd go same plan. 3x1708 or 1808 for both the skeg glassing and the tabbing. When you tab, you also lay the first glass up to the top edge of the skeg, then back off say 1/2-1" each time and lay the tapes onto the hull 150,100,50mm to make fairing easier. This is a bit more glass, but not much, but also a two day affair and sanding in between.
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jacquesmm
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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

Vetus rudder 4040:
It is very close in height but too wide.
You could have a machine shop cut a slice from the trailing edge (stern side) and that would work.
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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

Tabbing: do not count the layers on the drawing. I can not show too many layers. Instead, follow the tabbing and overlap instructions.
Start with the tabbing and overlap each layer of wide fabric. That will give you a very thick and sturdy keel.
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Thanks Jacques / Dan

Happy with that.

Jacques I know you think the bow thruster is not needed and I would not disagree but I would be happier having one. So I have been in touch with Vetus and they recommend the 35kgf-12v for this boat. They have forwarded the installation advice. The link is below.
https://www.vetus.com/en/bow-thruster-3 ... 125mm.html.
On page 18 it goes through the recommendations for fitting. The top left fitting looks straight forward. But the next suggestion seems a little more complicated...
Can you give me your opinion regarding there layouts, or maybe you have your own fitting thoughts.
They also give position advice earlier on.

Advice appreciated.

Cheers

Les

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

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jacquesmm
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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

Even with the small size of that thruster, it will very tight and the installation will be difficult.
I would start with a pilot hole for the center of the tube and measure it all from there: take dimensions from inside, make a temporary cardboard tube and use that as a template.
I can give you a suggested location for the pilot hole. Give me a day or two and keep in mind that I can not guarantee that you will be able to access all the bolts.
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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

I am not certain which part is confusing you.

Adding a fairing or not?

Personally, I would not. The LB26 is not a large vessel and the performance of the thruster would not change enough to be notable I'd say. Also, I would use a grid of 316 stainless or fiberglass g10 or 1/8-1/4" laminate and this is more complicated with a fairing.

Now, that said, I would not attach the tube wothout rounding and a tape layer on the outside or it could crack at the tube/hull intersection...and then perhaps delam unless you remove the core and fill with thickened resins before bonding the tube.

My two cents, but it must be noted, have no thruster experience; just good glass knowledge.
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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

I see JM is going to try to help with locating. I would try to get the thruster a bit further back because the boat is small; access is really key. The thruster will still perform a foot further aft..but pushing it close to bow will drive all sorts of access headaches. Also, when you install, you might be wise to run some longer pigtails for the ground/bond/hot. Wiring close to the unit will be hard.
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