LB26

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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

A good point for Les here as well. If you are a bit uncertain about the layup; far easier to add some to the inside as nearly no fairing reqd.
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Afternoon All

Once again thanks for all the feedback.

Jacques / Dan It could be the way I ask the questions and yes Jacques it could be lost in translation

The reason for asking all these questions is.... until I am 100 percent sure that I am going the right way I will not start the laminating. I have just spent 7,000 euros on resin, fibreglass tools etc, I can not afford to get it wrong !!!!

The reason for pushing the question on bow taping was that we are told to follow the laminating schedule, It says 2 layers of 15cm tape to the bow. Jacques has now pointed out that it is not necessary, overlapping the sheet material is fine. So I will now take the sheet material 20cm past the centre line on the port side and likewise on the starboard side, this will give 2 skins on the bow.
Just to clarify I have decided against fitting a towing hook.

The chine is not a problem 15cm tape.

With regard the keel this one I am still not quite there. Can someone just give me sizes of tape ? As mentioned before if i run a 15cm tape down the centre line no problem but the second layer giving a 5cm step each side only leaves a 5cm strip down the middle ( this does not seem right to me ) The other option is to run 2 x 15cm tapes down each side with a 2.5cm overlap on the centre line then run a 15cm down the line ?

Sorry if I am being stubborn on this one I just want to get it right.

I fully understand and respect the strengthening of certain parts of the hull and to me it is not a problem.

Dan the best comment of the day, " put extra layers on the inside to save fairing "

Please keep giving me feed back even if I am a pain in the arse.....

Les

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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

les2021 wrote: Wed Sep 01, 2021 8:19 am . . . we are told to follow the laminating schedule, It says 2 layers of 15cm tape to the bow. Jacques has now pointed out that it is not necessary, overlapping the sheet material is fine.
The lamination schedule is correct but if you skip the tape, the overlaps are sufficient.
It is just easier to start with the tape and cover with the wide fabric later.
Sometimes, too many questions create confusion.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

15cm tape is a 6" tape
offset the first tape 2.5 cm or 1 inch off center
Offset the second tape 2.5 cm or one inch offcenter the other way
The overlap is 15-2.5 or 12.5cm or 5 inches, not 5cm
(Bad math by me!). Move each tape half inch off center!!

Not sure why you are getting 5cm, perhaps you were going to stagger them too far apart

The minumum typical overlay in most glasswork is 2" or 5cm, but that is not a standard. A stagger of a half to one inch is fine...

For a doubled four inch tape, which is 10cm, you'd do the same and end up with a 3" overlap.

The two inch rule is the MINIMUM, not the always!
Last edited by fallguy1000 on Wed Sep 01, 2021 10:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

JM did not say to not do the bow tapes. They are in the spec. He said the overlaps are enough (implies with the specified tapes). (No need for the 40cm)
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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Also, if you tape first, come back with a bit of compound one pass like I said.

If you were going to put a ruler to the work....

Centerline
First tape is 3.5" one side 2.5" other
Second tape is 3.5" one side, 2.5" other side, overlap is 5".

Main Fabrics overlap each side about 2"...and this avoids hard pointing.

Now and then some cheating may occur. You may decide to go 3" overlapping, etc. avoid ever cheating to a butt join..like cheat to more overlap, not less or not much less...if you are really in a pinch and can only make an inch; that can happen now n then..
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BarraMan
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Re: LB26

Post by BarraMan »

Les, I wonder if you're overthinking this? Something that most of us have been guilty of at some point! I had a hangup about strakes! :lol:

I'm going to claim that while building my boat I went from total novice to "Master glasser" in a fairly short space of time! Unfortunately there are no photos on my build thread because the site that stored them went belly up. Some day I may upload them again to this sites gallery, which didn't exist when I started.

I don't know what the schedule is for your build, but in terms of taping and glass cloth overlaps etc, here's what I did - worked out just fine, with minimal fairing required.

Image

Image

Image

You can see that I used a marker pen to mark the overlaps.

I also overlapped the glass cloth over the join and 2" past the taping. In my case, on Jacques advice (my boat will do 50 kts), I put 3 x layers of cloth on the bottom - each one overlapped an additional 2 " past the last so no two edges coincided!

les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Morning All

Thanks again Jacques / Dan / BarraMan / OneWayTaffic.

Ok thats and end to that subject. I now feel happy :D It seems to me these are guides and common sense is the way forward.

Thanks for the photos BarraMan, having never attempted laminating before I just felt that I needed to understand more before I got going. Dan has been a great help along the way.

My trade was carpenter and joiner and I had my own construction company for 30+ years. It is the same in construction you learn all the tricks but it takes time and many questions .....

So no more laminating questions !!!!!!

Cheers

Les

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

One thing about glasswork that is different from carpentry is fiberglass benefits from thickness, not a shingle effect. Always try to put the larger stuff down first. Putting a transom overlap of 2",4",6",8", for example is not so good because the overlaps result in air entraining.

None of your questions have been bad and you don't need to be handcuffed to ask no more. I understand why you wanted more reinforcement of the bow, but it is not needed if the foam butt bonds are good. Do you know the Lloyd's Register and class society rules carry different requirements for those bow bonds? I consider them unnecessary, but those foam bonds in the LR rules are supposed to be different (angled) and your intuition is really not wrong. But the only people who would follow the LR rules are the ones forced to do so because the rules are extremely difficult to implement. Imagine making the flare and using all 45 degree bonds...silly. The gains may be offset by poor work even.

Even in foam work, there are practicalities.

Build on, ask away!
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Morning all

I'm back at last :D

Due to the pandemic and travel restrictions now being eased we had family visiting from the UK non stop.... BUT now back in the boat shed :D

Once again thanks for helping with all my questions re taping.... Taping went well and now the first layer over the hull is on as well, really happy just one small bubble which I have fixed. 8 hours work... long day.

Dan just read your last reply again regarding transom overlaps, so if I understand correct are you saying this should be cut exactly to the transom
shape ??? Is Jacques OK with that ? so I take it you just overlap the bottom sheets ???

Dan I am just sanding the first coat ready for the next, I am planning to put 2 layers on the transom and bottom on the same day. Is there any tips or advice you can give ????

Jacques regarding the shaft log, does this have to be fibre glass ??? the engine suppliers are only offering this in stainless steel or bronze.

Will post photos soon.

Cheers

Les

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