LB26

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jacquesmm
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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

They aim for a higher speed than what I planned for but yes to the 2:1 with the prop I list on the plans.
I did not know that a 2.5:1 was available. It probably did not exist at the time of the design but we are limited by the prop diameter and availability.
Watch the weight if you want to go fast.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com

les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Jacques

Cheers for your input, the engine side of things is a little outside my area.... ( ok miles )

Les

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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Hi All

It's time for more questions.....

Paint. My supplier on the main land stocks an Italian product called Nubian, Fondo 29 primer and Smalto 41 top coat, 2 layers of each. It seems this is Polyurethane Enamel.

The question is, is this a good product or should I be looking for an Epoxy paint product. I am about a month away from painting the bottom but need to get things organised.

I have no knowledge of epoxy paints and painting boats so any advice would be most welcome.

The hull is coming on nicely, I will post some photos soon, another couple of weeks and I should be ready for primer.

All the best

Les

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Paint is a complex issue.

First, is the boat going to be slipped or moored in the sea? Keepng the boat in the sea changes the paint requirement.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

After that main decision, there are several ways to go.

But the first decision is critical. Sea creatures love to stick to the boat bottom and so anti fouling paints are used. These paints slough or break away in light layers. But they do not trailer well.

The hardest paints are generally the best, so a common practice in boat paints is to use two part polyurethanes. However, these also have some issues to watch out for...namely, some of them do not do well under immersion and they are not easily blended at repair time. You must sand them for mechanical key and then the next layer is higher than the last and you get edges.

Of course, I have skipped primer. The boat needs primer, on all surfaces. Really, Les, there is one great primer on the market. Interlux 2000e. The stuff rolls on like magic. Your bottom should get 3 mininum to 5 coats of it. After the first coat, look for pinholes and fill them with fairing compound. Epoxy primer is really the only one you ought to consider, imo.

Back to topcoats, after the two part poly is one part polyurethane. One part is easier to blend, but the paint is not as hard.

Do not use a polurethane primer. The primer coat needs to be sanded with about 180 grit for key, so you will create a mechanical bond and can bond most any paint to it.

The interlux2000e can also be used for hullsides. I really love the stuff; it rolls on really well. If I were starting over; I'd only use interlux products.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Dan

The boat will be moored. I will try and find an Interlux supplier over here.
If I can obtain the finish you managed I will be over the moon.

So if I understand right.... After using the 2000e you can apply Epoxy or Polyurethane ? and the two part Poly is a better product ? But below water line it should be epoxy all the way ?

Cheers

Les

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

les2021 wrote: Tue Nov 30, 2021 11:01 am Dan

The boat will be moored. I will try and find an Interlux supplier over here.
If I can obtain the finish you managed I will be over the moon.

So if I understand right.... After using the 2000e you can apply Epoxy or Polyurethane ? and the two part Poly is a better product ? But below water line it should be epoxy all the way ?

Cheers

Les
For a small boat like the LB26, use Interlux 2000e on the entire hull exterior. You can roll it on with low nap fine rollers 6" wide max. Feather away always. Ask me if you don't understand.

Talk with the locals at the marina you will moor in and use their preferred anti-fouling to 3" above the waterline.

The way this is done is as follows.

#1 primer 3 coats back to back; repair any unsighlty fairing problems and sand it all with 120 grit
#2 primer a 4th and perhaps 5th coat based on paint on hand, or revise #1 and fair after a first coat..the primer allows you to see imperfections much better; some guys use a mist coat of car spray paint here, not me

After your primer coat looks nice, sand it to 180.

#2, if possible, paint the hullsides to design waterline by shooting a laser line to dwl and masking it off, use your topsides paint; dark paints are off limits unless you post cure. OR you can wait

#3 mask a line to 3" above dwl onto your hullsides topcoat and sand the topcoat and blend it back to the primercoat with 180 grit

#4...decision time. Anti fouling paints are not to be applied while the boat is cradled, generally.. so, you can flip the boat now or risk damaging the anti fouling(don't).

You can also opt to only apply primer and paint the boat when further along. The primer will protect the boat from uv and you can see if it looks nice or not.

Then when flipped, paint the hullsides down to dwl with topsides paint. Mask to 3" above dwl, feather in the top oat. Remask and paint antifouling to 3" above dwl.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Personally, I would only primer the boat now. There is a ton of abuse the boat will take on the cradle and the antifouling will probably fail some. Yes, this means lifting the boat off the cradles to paint under.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

You can go back through my blog here to August of 2020 and see some Interlux 2000 going on..
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

TomW1
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Re: LB26

Post by TomW1 »

I sort of disagree with fallguy, since yours is a single hull boat, Finish the bottom only, not the sides and after the flip cover the sides with plastic. Pad the cradle so you won't damage the bottom paint. There are all sorts of bottom paints avilable some will last only a year some will last more depending on the use of your boatl You will just have to check what is available to you in Greece. Good luck on finding your bottom paint.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

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