LB26

Power Boats only. Please include the boat type in your question.
fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

TomW1 wrote: Wed Jul 13, 2022 1:55 am fallguy do you even know what a diurnal tank is? It is one that has a positive pressure >1lb to prevent emissions to escape to the atmosphere. The ABYC and EPA worked together on this. This is nothing new and has been in effect since 2015 as part of the 2013 regulations. I do not know if the European regs require the same reg though they are pretty strict on emissions.

Tom
Yes.
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Afternoon All

Thanks for all the feed back. I have asked the fabricator in Germany to supply the quote for the tanks to meet the European Regs. Will await his response.

On my last post I asked a question regarding drilling drainage holes in stringers and main frames, anything I need to be aware of ???

Cheers

Les

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

les2021 wrote: Thu Jul 14, 2022 7:56 am Afternoon All

Thanks for all the feed back. I have asked the fabricator in Germany to supply the quote for the tanks to meet the European Regs. Will await his response.

On my last post I asked a question regarding drilling drainage holes in stringers and main frames, anything I need to be aware of ???

Cheers

Les
No cuts on tops of stringers. But sort of passe' for drainage.. Getting the tabbing low is the real challenge to not cut into the cored material.. use an oscillating tool with a carbide head
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jacquesmm
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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

Some of the rules that are discussed here apply only to manufacturing not to amateur boat building. If you buy a tank from a manufacturer, it will be certified and that's it. Look for the ABYC sticker or ask the manufacturer.
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TomW1
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Re: LB26

Post by TomW1 »

Limber (drainage) holes are drilled at the lowest point in each compartments frame to the farthest compartment where another limber hole is drilled at the back in the stringers to take any water to the center compartment to be pumped overboard. A 1"-2" hole is plenty as the deck is sealed and water should never reach below decks.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

Thanks Tom, I forgot to reply to that one.
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Morning Guys

As usual thanks for the last batch of advice.

All going well at the moment if not a bit slow, the temperature is now getting to it's hottest over here.

Just finishing the deck supports and drainage holes, will post photos soon.

I am about to fix engine mounting angle steels, I plan to use s/s bolts. Is there anything I should know about this job. Do I glue the bolts in and use double nuts incase of vibration ??? and how tight do I do the nuts up ???

Finished the relocation of the shaft log. It was playing on my mind for the last month, now happy.

Cheers

Les

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Re: LB26

Post by Fuzz »

I would cut an oversize hole and fill with epoxy/filler. Drill out for the bolt size. This will let you tighten them down hard with no risk of rot or crushing the stringer. If you use stainless bolts make sure and coat them with anti-sieze or they will gauld. Use lock washers or double nuts, something to keep them tight.

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Everything David said is correct. I would add one thing.

You cannot install bolts in light core. You need to decore and in this case, I would decore and glass over.

So, let's say the bolts are 3/8-16, which is probably like a 10mm metric.

You locate exactly where the bolts go and drill them out.

Then you overbore. The minimum bore would be +3mm each side or 16mm, but I prefer 2x or a 20mm bore and you can go to 3x or 30mm bore, but unlikely you have that much space or a 30mm drill. A 30mm fill likes to heat and crack as well, so stick with 20 or 2x. If you are using a 25mm hole, you may need to fill it halfway and then let it exotherm and fill it again in an hour on the other side..

Fill the holes all the way with thickened epoxy. You can add milled foberglass, if you like.

Now, to prevent vibrations from breaking out the plug, I would glass over the filled bores with a piece of 1708 or 1808 tape on each side. In a perfect world, you would have bored and filled these holes before glassing in the stringers which would give the holes all the fiberglass for strength. This is a good remedy.

For your deck cleats, you need to do the same and would be best to do so before glass. That way, you can hog out enough for the entire cleat fitting. Otherwise, you have to make stainless exterior and interior plates to not crush laminate. Cleats always need backing plates...fyi.

An alternative is to drill the hole and then hog out the material with a cutoff allen wrench on a drill, or to hog out glass behind the hole, but this is really hard to do.

Pay attention to the bit on stainless galling. I have found serrated flange nuts have less tendency to gall as the threads are not being overworked by a spring loaded lock washer, but large bolts I will either wax or use anti-seize.

I can show you more if needed on cleat prep. If you botched it, you can hog out underneath and work upside down, but it is harder.

Just yesterday, I spent hours fabbing exterior plates where I only have 4# core. I'll add a picture for you.
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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Cleat base prep. See how I marked the base out and went bigger? The inside was glassed, then I hogged out, filled and glassed the deck shoe and locked the fill inside the hull.


Marked for removal. My buddy Ray who died this year.
17E556A5-365B-47A8-90D1-ACE8E3CAA1E8.jpeg
Bow cleat hogged out.
2E1DEB33-850C-410B-B1AD-A439F87EF2D6.jpeg
Finished with glass I think
43ACF152-C8AB-4C97-ABB9-979F2B074D16.jpeg
Side cleat hogged out one side, other side glassed.
BCF963AB-C354-48B0-BB27-E11F4B250FAD.jpeg
On the boat..
4FAF154E-0FD6-45A2-8BEB-30DECA135ACC.jpeg
My boat build is here -------->

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