Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

For the engine mount bolts, don't forget that you will need them all loose while you align the engine. That will be done dry first, out of the water but do not tighten them with full force. launch the boat and do the alignement again. Every hull moves a little bit when in the water. Once the hull is settled, redo the alignment. Follow the engine mounts manufacturer instructions to lock the bolts, usually double nuts. Anti seize is good advice.

Cheers Guys

As always good feed back.

Dan regarding cleats I have put Corecell M200 in place for 4 cleats each side port and starboard + infills for water and fuel, so 5 inserts each side. I have also put a large one in for the windlass.

The Stringers where the engine mounting angle goes is 4 x 15mm Corecell M200 plus Jacques glass spec. Like you say it would have been good to have drilled the holes prior to glassing, not sure I am that good

So it looks like drilling larger holes and filling prior to drilling correct holes for angle iron.

Cheers

Les

If you are asking about bolting the L brackets to the stringers, the idea of drilling oversize then fill with epoxy putty (milled fiber) then drill for the bolts is the way to go. I did reply about the fastening of the rubber mounts to that L bracket.

Should be good.

Thanks Guys

Next question....

Fuel tanks, is there a standard gap required from stringers, hull bottom, underside of deck to the tanks.

The underside of deck I understand will be down to the fittings required.

The German company I am dealing with are not easy....

Cheers

Les

The standard is 3% expansion minimum, all directions, but for example.

Suppose stringer spacing is 500mm wide narrowest part.

Divide 1.03

Tank width max is 485.

Always good to allow a bit more. And you ought to use neoprene strips to keep the tank off the surfaces to prevent crevice corrosion. Strips of 3mm are good.

Don't forget, tank must be secured somehow. I used angle irons. Mine were plastic. An aluminum angle should use neoprene spacer as well. Suppose a 1" aluminum angle, plus a bit of clearance to keep tank low enough. Otherwise, you can strap the tank down somehow with less clearance..but you need a fill on top.

Post the tank drawing here and we can watch out for any blatant error. Drains are not allowed in gas tanks (this is diesel) for example. For a diesel tank, it may be wise to install an access for cleaning as well.

I figured you may have fun on the tank issue.

Are they installing any baffles? Baffles would prevent slosh. My tanks are plastic, 64g and have a single baffle like thing iirc.

Also, your sole must have access points for all tank fittings. So, locate fittings, not under a cabinet, for example.

A lot of fab shops like to build to a drawing. If you don't have a drawing or make drawing changes; they can get surly!

Tanks drawings are included in the plans but they are a suggestion: you can make your tanks larger, smaller, move them a little bit to another place.
My drawings show fill, pick up and vents but again, you can change that. Plan for those inspection plates.
Instead of inspection plates, some builders make a large hatch above the tanks. Those detract from the cockpit strength and I prefer inspection plates.
Not shown, optional, are decanter drains. I like them but they are not required, it's just an option.

Afternoon Guys

Finished all the deck / sole supports and glassed the deck ( so much nicer to walk on ! ) The beams and supports are working really well no bounce at all.

Made a mock up of the shaft strut ready to send off.

Al going ok apart from the heat

Next stage wings and window framework.....

Wow nice work.