GF16 questions.

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matth6
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Re: GF16 questions.

Post by matth6 »

I have the side panels assembled, mid seat frames are in (temporary screws) and the transoms dry fitted with some tape and zip ties. Everything measures perfect, diagonals are equal. The next step is to cut and dry install the seat tops to check symmetry and that everything is lined up properly before gluing the transoms in place. My question is once the transoms are glued in and the rub rail is epoxied on for support of hull shape do I leave all the frames and seat tops screwed in temporarily for the flip and install of the bottom or do i epoxy glue them in place. I know at this point the transoms get epoxied in place but its unclear on all the frames. I realize after the bottom of the hull is in place the boat gets flipped back upright and the seams of the frames get taped. I just am unclear if i keep the frames screwed in for the first flip or epoxied in place.

piperdown
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Re: GF16 questions.

Post by piperdown »

matth6 wrote: Wed May 12, 2021 12:30 pm I have the side panels assembled, mid seat frames are in (temporary screws) and the transoms dry fitted with some tape and zip ties. Everything measures perfect, diagonals are equal. The next step is to cut and dry install the seat tops to check symmetry and that everything is lined up properly before gluing the transoms in place. My question is once the transoms are glued in and the rub rail is epoxied on for support of hull shape do I leave all the frames and seat tops screwed in temporarily for the flip and install of the bottom or do i epoxy glue them in place. I know at this point the transoms get epoxied in place but its unclear on all the frames. I realize after the bottom of the hull is in place the boat gets flipped back upright and the seams of the frames get taped. I just am unclear if i keep the frames screwed in for the first flip or epoxied in place.

I tacked mine in place with epoxy and wood flour then pulled the screws after it all cured for the frames. The tops I just left screwed in place. I tacked the frames in quite a few places. Then I flipped it, removed the screws and then overdrilled the screw holes just a bit and injected epoxy and wood flour to fill the holes. Got the bottom situated and then tacked the seams. Let cure, pulled the ties and finished the seam up.

If you tack the frames good, just finish up the entire bottom and don't worry about flipping back over to tape the frames. Complete the entire exterior then flip back. Way more flipping in the instructions than needed.
Eric (aka, piperdown)

"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain

piperdown
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Re: GF16 questions.

Post by piperdown »

BTW. Like a couple others did with their GF16's, when the bottom is completely done and I flip it back right side up, I plan on removing the frames completely (I'll build a spanner to keep the side from creeping in or moving out) and fiberglass the entire floor and up the sides. Then I'll reinstall the frames (realizing I'll have to trim them some) and glue and tab them in. Won't add anything but a little weight and I prefer the thought of having the entire hull sheathed using big sheets instead of having to cut all kinds of smaller ones and fitting them down between the frames.
Eric (aka, piperdown)

"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain

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Re: GF16 questions.

Post by jacquesmm »

What Piperdown says is a correct procedure. An alternate is to fiberglass all the inside "boxes" without removing the frames. What Piperdown does is better: leave frames in with temporary fasteners (a couple dry wall screws), flip it, remove frames, glass whole bottom, put frames back and tab all around the frames, each side.
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matth6
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Re: GF16 questions.

Post by matth6 »

Thanks for the help! I like the idea of glassing the inside with no frames and reinstalling them. One clarification, When you say finish the bottom before flipping back to finish the inside do you mean runners and fairing and all or simply the seams and glass?

piperdown
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Re: GF16 questions.

Post by piperdown »

matth6 wrote: Wed May 12, 2021 2:33 pm Thanks for the help! I like the idea of glassing the inside with no frames and reinstalling them. One clarification, When you say finish the bottom before flipping back to finish the inside do you mean runners and fairing and all or simply the seams and glass?

All of it. Runners, fairing paint, etc. Otherwise you'll have to flip it back again to paint the bottom. So I'm talking everything to the outside and bottom, then flip.
I've still got fairing to do along the starboard side. Once that's done then it's getting a graphite and epoxy bottom, then paint the sides, flip and work on the interior.
Eric (aka, piperdown)

"Give an Irishman lager for a month and he's a dead man. An Irishman's stomach is lined with copper, and the beer corrodes it. But whiskey polishes the copper and is the saving of him." --> Mark Twain

TomW1
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Re: GF16 questions.

Post by TomW1 »

matth6 wrote: Wed May 12, 2021 2:33 pm Thanks for the help! I like the idea of glassing the inside with no frames and reinstalling them. One clarification, When you say finish the bottom before flipping back to finish the inside do you mean runners and fairing and all or simply the seams and glass?
Completely finish the bottom. All the way to to the graphite coating or bottom paint which ever you are using. You can paint the sides after the flip. Cover the bottom with plastic so it hangs down so you don't get any thing on it. You can also paint the sides while it is upside down it some times easier to do that way.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

OneWayTraffic
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Re: GF16 questions.

Post by OneWayTraffic »

If you paint mid way through the build take no shortcuts with the masking. Epoxy will bond to paint just fine.

matth6
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Re: GF16 questions.

Post by matth6 »

ITs been almost a year since I posted here but am excited to say I finally have glassed the hull as of this past weekend. For my first time I must say I am pleased with the results depsite having a few touch ups I will need to address before moving forward. My question today is on the runners and spray rails. I know the plans call for them to be epoxied to the hull over the fiberglass but I was curious if there is any benefit or even draw backs (besides the use of extra material) to them being epoxied to the hull then glass in with some glass tape. Would this be a net benefit to the end product? Overkill? Any advise would be much appreciated.

Also, as I plan to fair and at least prime/ graphite the boat before flipping what is the best fairing compound for a first time builder and what grit schedule should be used start to finish?

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Re: GF16 questions.

Post by Reid »

matth6,

There are a few conflicting opinions on the application of spray rails/runners/skegs and I'm sure you will hear several shortly.
Personally I like to install these parts after the boat has been faired, prior to primer. I don't like to attach these with fiberglass, simply prep the site well and epoxy glue them on. The reason being (and this may be more crucial to skegs on the bottom of the hull), if you were to make an error and hit something, rub a piling, run over a sandbar or oyster bed, or hit something below the waterline, the skeg/rail would be sacrificial and hopefully come off without doing any damage to the integrity of the hull. You can always go back and make a new skeg/rail easy enough.

Fairing is not a complicated process. Mixing microballoons into your epoxy is easy enough. It may take a few tries to get your technique right.
That being said, the System Three Quick Fair is a really nice product that has taken a lot of the guess work out of mixing up a fairing compound. It is also very easy to spread and (probably the best attribute) it is easy to sand. The down side, it costs a little more.
A good compromise is to do the initial fairing with microballoons and then switch over to Quick Fair to dial in the hull.

Hope this helps!
-Reid
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