Crimony Trent, that is some crazy high-quality, professional looking work! Gold-plating not required! I can now attest to the fact that trying to keep the boat clean in places where the paint is not fair and very smooth is about impossible, so you're really going to appreciate that effort, will pay off big-time. Big ups on all of that!
I also like that rounding technique. I took a much longer way around the barn on that with my poling platform. Once again, I wish you and Cameron had done your builds before me! I like the look of my bright rubrail but it's a major hassle around docks since the boat is too oddly shaped in many cases to use fenders effectively, so good choice on the plastic, will save you a lot of needless worry and will look great.
Build on!
Trent's FS14 LS Build
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
I think you rub rail is upside down. If you hook that 1/4 kick out under the rub rail then as water splashed up the hull it dies into the rub rail as it hangs over. It made my ride extremely dry for a little boat.
cbuf
cbuf
See my LM 18 build here.
viewtopic.php?t=64254
See my LM 18 Questions here.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64299&hilit=lm18\
Finished Boat Here
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=65173
viewtopic.php?t=64254
See my LM 18 Questions here.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64299&hilit=lm18\
Finished Boat Here
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=65173
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Cbuf - I’ve been pondering your suggestion but am away from the boat and haven’t been able to “test” what I think you are saying. Are you saying to let the R-30 hang below the bottom surface of the rubrail? I can see how that could make for a drier ride.
I was using the R-30 to cover the deck seam, which it would not do if I lowered it. However, there is really no reason that I couldn’t wrap the rubrail when I glass the deck so that the seam disappears. Right? I think the only consideration would be aesthetic and whether the profile of the whole assembly gets too thick.
I was using the R-30 to cover the deck seam, which it would not do if I lowered it. However, there is really no reason that I couldn’t wrap the rubrail when I glass the deck so that the seam disappears. Right? I think the only consideration would be aesthetic and whether the profile of the whole assembly gets too thick.
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
If your concern is that deck seam, you could just pack it with some thickened epoxy and sand it flush then fair any remaining low points. I'd suggest spending the time on that vs using a rub rail in the opposite than intended orientation.
You could wrap the glass, but youll want to have that seam flush before you do.
You could wrap the glass, but youll want to have that seam flush before you do.
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
I guess I misstated that a bit. The seam is flush. The glass would handle it just fine without any further work aside from sanding the current finish off the rubrail for adhesion purposes. I just didn’t plan on it being “faired” for final paint because I wasn’t planning on it being exposed to view. Lowering the R-30 would change that. They way I was going to use it was just for “bumper” purposes. I think Cbuf is suggesting that I can use it more as a spray rail.
I think the lip on the rubrail is more for alignment purposes than anything else. I could turn it “right-side-up” just as well and I think the performance would be the same.
I think the lip on the rubrail is more for alignment purposes than anything else. I could turn it “right-side-up” just as well and I think the performance would be the same.
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
That pic is before I glued the deck - the squeeze out filled the small chamfered area
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Oh I see. Sounds like you just need to hold off the pondering until you can santity check it in person. It sounds like either way will work.
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Been trying to find time to post an update since it's been almost 2 months. Progress has been slow but steady I guess...
Got the deck glassed (4 oz. woven)
Based on Jeff's experience, I made sure to take the opportunity to tab the transom to the deck. Since I forgot to fillet the joint on the first application, I actually tabbed it twice. So I think this seam will end up being as strong as I could want.
Primed the deck - hard to remember now, but I think I put down 2 coats, sanded, and then a third.
I got distracted by this side project - I wanted to create a small seat that would double as a motor well cover. This was a project that I imagined early on but never took the time to really figure out on paper - so in-situ it was. Used some scrap Ipe from a decking project. I'm allergic to varnish (emotionally, not physically) - so with the Ipe, an occasional oiling will do and if if grays - so be it. It's a bit crude, but I'm pretty happy with it. The legs fold when it's in the cover position to avoid conflicts with the various hoses that will be back there. I do have my doubts about the practicality of it - I generally have little patience for fiddling with stuff like this when I'm looking for fish. I expect that it will be in the cover position most of the time - but if I want to sit and putt around one day, I have the option.
Had some gel-magic work to do in the motorwell. Those that live in colder climates will find this humorous, but it did drop to around 50 here for a day or two and the epoxy wasn't setting.. A heating pad to the rescue! Actually, the heating pad didn't work well at all, but an incandescent work light raised the temp in the motorwell cavity by 20 degrees and worked like a charm.
Had my grab rail made by a fabricator in Big Pine. The base plates aren't exactly what I planned for, but it's a good fit.
On to deck paint. Moved her to Big Pine because I needed to be there for a week for other reasons and my paint space is much better there. Started with the cockpit and hatch gutters to keep the paint mixes manageable. For the gutters, I just applied wet on wet on wet. I'm done with sanding gutters.
The deck was done wet on wet on wet (3 coats), sanded with 400 and then the final coat. Based on my experience with the hull, I wanted to achieve full coverage before I started any sanding and 90% of this gets covered by non-silp anyway.
Been getting things in order for rigging and trying to find a window to do the non-slip since that will require 3 or 4 days in sequence without interruption.
Got the deck glassed (4 oz. woven)
Based on Jeff's experience, I made sure to take the opportunity to tab the transom to the deck. Since I forgot to fillet the joint on the first application, I actually tabbed it twice. So I think this seam will end up being as strong as I could want.
Primed the deck - hard to remember now, but I think I put down 2 coats, sanded, and then a third.
I got distracted by this side project - I wanted to create a small seat that would double as a motor well cover. This was a project that I imagined early on but never took the time to really figure out on paper - so in-situ it was. Used some scrap Ipe from a decking project. I'm allergic to varnish (emotionally, not physically) - so with the Ipe, an occasional oiling will do and if if grays - so be it. It's a bit crude, but I'm pretty happy with it. The legs fold when it's in the cover position to avoid conflicts with the various hoses that will be back there. I do have my doubts about the practicality of it - I generally have little patience for fiddling with stuff like this when I'm looking for fish. I expect that it will be in the cover position most of the time - but if I want to sit and putt around one day, I have the option.
Had some gel-magic work to do in the motorwell. Those that live in colder climates will find this humorous, but it did drop to around 50 here for a day or two and the epoxy wasn't setting.. A heating pad to the rescue! Actually, the heating pad didn't work well at all, but an incandescent work light raised the temp in the motorwell cavity by 20 degrees and worked like a charm.
Had my grab rail made by a fabricator in Big Pine. The base plates aren't exactly what I planned for, but it's a good fit.
On to deck paint. Moved her to Big Pine because I needed to be there for a week for other reasons and my paint space is much better there. Started with the cockpit and hatch gutters to keep the paint mixes manageable. For the gutters, I just applied wet on wet on wet. I'm done with sanding gutters.
The deck was done wet on wet on wet (3 coats), sanded with 400 and then the final coat. Based on my experience with the hull, I wanted to achieve full coverage before I started any sanding and 90% of this gets covered by non-silp anyway.
Been getting things in order for rigging and trying to find a window to do the non-slip since that will require 3 or 4 days in sequence without interruption.
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
She's looking great! I really like the seat/cover idea. One if the things that is absolutely critical with this size boat is making sure things are efficient. That's a novel use of space in my opinion!
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Nice work!!! Jeff
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