I would not worry about the trailer weight and spare tire weight. Once you get your weight and your fishing gear, cooler and other weights added on your total weight will be close to if not over 1000lbs as you leave the dock. The 25HP should give you a top speed near 30 or slightly over.
Tom
Trent's FS14 LS Build
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Comedy routine atvthe dmv!
I weighed at 2 different moving companies 1 day apart and the difference was like 400#. So who knows what anything actually weighs. I calced the weight of the bom and it came in well over the spec weight, which I feel may have an error around 30% or so.
I weighed at 2 different moving companies 1 day apart and the difference was like 400#. So who knows what anything actually weighs. I calced the weight of the bom and it came in well over the spec weight, which I feel may have an error around 30% or so.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
I used a nearby CAT Scale. You can download an app and just drive up, connect to the station over cellular, have it run the weight of the entire rig, then go unhook the trailer and drive back through with tow vehicle only. 15 bucks first time and 3 for reweigh. Those scales are guaranteed to be accurate because DOT fines are no joke!
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Seaslug - if you’re out there - would love to hear more about your current build or just see some progress pics. Especially interested in how the process & materials differ.I've built 4 of Jacques boats and currently finishing my second Conchfish 16 by Chris Morejohn.
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Well - I’m finally planning to splash this weekend. After weeks of +25 knot wind conditions and various “social” commitments, this weekend is looking like the one. Excited and nervous. I’ve got a motor to break in and some davit rigging to dial in - so mostly it will be about that…and not sinking
Which brings to mind - I haven’t gotten insurance yet. I’ve been with State Farm for car and boat insurance for well over 30 years, so that will be my first stop. Any advice? I remember reading a nightmarish thread about folks having difficulty securing insurance and Fallguy’s advice to Remember these words:
Custom built. Composite. Will pass insurance survey.
And to forget these words:
Homemade. Wood. No inspection.
Any other sage advice out there?
Which brings to mind - I haven’t gotten insurance yet. I’ve been with State Farm for car and boat insurance for well over 30 years, so that will be my first stop. Any advice? I remember reading a nightmarish thread about folks having difficulty securing insurance and Fallguy’s advice to Remember these words:
Custom built. Composite. Will pass insurance survey.
And to forget these words:
Homemade. Wood. No inspection.
Any other sage advice out there?
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Yes, make sure you have your states inspection and all your tags, HIN, title and registration, if needed.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
I have insurance
I hate insurance
I hate insurance
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Long but great day today! Got her splashed. Got the motor broken in - and almost broken. More on that later. And got the davit dialed in one more step. No great photos, but my wife took some decent videos. Will try to get those posted soon along with some of the final rigging details. Towards the end of this build, I was questioning a few things about this boat, but after today, I found that it's exactly what I wanted and I couldn't be happier.
I splashed her fully loaded because I didn't want to fool myself about anything. Full tank of gas. Cast net. All the safety gear. Small cooler. The only things I didn't bring were a tackle bag and fishing rods. My first observation is that the ride of this hull - given it's size - is really nice. Kudos to Jaques for the design. I've had a couple of small skiffs in the past and was prepared for a wet beating. Not the case. The day started out flat but ended with a moderate chop. I was really impressed with how the hull performed in the choppier conditions and taking on other boat wakes. I know that's partly due to the standing position/extended tiller/grab rail, but regardless, this is a cool little hull. Also, I had it in my head that this was a one man boat, especially given the way I reduced the cockpit and extended the front casting deck. Unless you upsized it like Jeff and Cameron did. I've been scratching my head on how I might make it comfortable for my wife or daughter on occasion. And I didn't think there would be room for them to stand along with me. Not the case. They both went out with me and enjoyed it quite a bit. As long as it's not a 10-mile run to the spot - no reason I can't bring someone along.
All systems worked, nothing leaked, and the paint didn't come pealing off . Motor performed great. WOT was 29 MPH (TomW1 nailed it) and she cruises really nice at 20. WOT with a passenger was 27 MPH.
There is one issue that I'd love to get some advice on. 25 MPH and up and I have some porpoising. I tried trimming the motor (manual trim) down (moving the trim pin one position). That fixed the porpoising, but produced a loss of top end speed by 2 MPH and, more importantly, made the motor want to steer right. So much so, that it would be uncomfortable to drive after running a mile or so. That won't work and I'm curious what that's about. I think that is telling me something important but I don't know what it is. Just to check, I also trimmed it up. As expected that produced more porpoising. So trimming isn't going to fix the issue. I do have a jack plate (fixed/manual) and my initial setup has the cavitation plate about one inch above the bottom of the hull with the lower unit about 12" behind the transom. I think that's a "rule-of-thumb" setting. I've boiled the potential fix down to the following options:
I splashed her fully loaded because I didn't want to fool myself about anything. Full tank of gas. Cast net. All the safety gear. Small cooler. The only things I didn't bring were a tackle bag and fishing rods. My first observation is that the ride of this hull - given it's size - is really nice. Kudos to Jaques for the design. I've had a couple of small skiffs in the past and was prepared for a wet beating. Not the case. The day started out flat but ended with a moderate chop. I was really impressed with how the hull performed in the choppier conditions and taking on other boat wakes. I know that's partly due to the standing position/extended tiller/grab rail, but regardless, this is a cool little hull. Also, I had it in my head that this was a one man boat, especially given the way I reduced the cockpit and extended the front casting deck. Unless you upsized it like Jeff and Cameron did. I've been scratching my head on how I might make it comfortable for my wife or daughter on occasion. And I didn't think there would be room for them to stand along with me. Not the case. They both went out with me and enjoyed it quite a bit. As long as it's not a 10-mile run to the spot - no reason I can't bring someone along.
All systems worked, nothing leaked, and the paint didn't come pealing off . Motor performed great. WOT was 29 MPH (TomW1 nailed it) and she cruises really nice at 20. WOT with a passenger was 27 MPH.
There is one issue that I'd love to get some advice on. 25 MPH and up and I have some porpoising. I tried trimming the motor (manual trim) down (moving the trim pin one position). That fixed the porpoising, but produced a loss of top end speed by 2 MPH and, more importantly, made the motor want to steer right. So much so, that it would be uncomfortable to drive after running a mile or so. That won't work and I'm curious what that's about. I think that is telling me something important but I don't know what it is. Just to check, I also trimmed it up. As expected that produced more porpoising. So trimming isn't going to fix the issue. I do have a jack plate (fixed/manual) and my initial setup has the cavitation plate about one inch above the bottom of the hull with the lower unit about 12" behind the transom. I think that's a "rule-of-thumb" setting. I've boiled the potential fix down to the following options:
- I have about 3/4" of lift left in the jack plate. I think I'll try maxing that out first. Unless - maybe it's too high already?
- Put some weight in the bow, but who wants to add weight to their boat?
- Trim tabs. Really don't want to put more holes in my transom, but if that's what it takes...
- Hydrofoil? Do they really work? I definitely don't want to put holes in my cav plate, so this would be a last resort.
- Could a different prop make any difference? I don't think so but I've never quite understood the "science" of props
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
If you end up where the right turning tendency is the only problem you can adjust the small trim tab on the bottom of your ventilation plate right behind the prop to tune that out. Once you have the rest of your setup you can just adjust that a bit at a time until the steering is neutral at your cruising speed.Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Sun May 01, 2022 10:59 pm
There is one issue that I'd love to get some advice on. 25 MPH and up and I have some porpoising. I tried trimming the motor (manual trim) down (moving the trim pin one position). That fixed the porpoising, but produced a loss of top end speed by 2 MPH and, more importantly, made the motor want to steer right. So much so, that it would be uncomfortable to drive after running a mile or so. That won't work and I'm curious what that's about.
Curious what troubleshooting suggestions you guys might have.
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Joe - thanks! That’s brilliantly obvious. I’m not sure why I didn’t think of it. I’ve changed those anodes a few times on other boats and know there set slightly askew to overcome the prop torque - but it never occurred to me that I could actually adjust it. I think that should work.
Now I’m curious if that adjustment will still result in a loss of top end speed. We’ll see.
Now I’m curious if that adjustment will still result in a loss of top end speed. We’ll see.
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