Trent's FS14 LS Build
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Looking good!
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- * Bateau Builder *
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
A busy couple of weeks but I applaud your perseverance in getting the bot where you can stay on it. Paint looks great!
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Nice work!!! Jeff
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Man, you really do some nice work Trent, that hull looks slippery!
It's shame about the grab-rail mount location, running those drains right into the cockpit would have been ideal. I suspect the weep holes will work just as well.
Great work all-around on the hatches and gutters, that seems like a straightforward model to follow whether you're dealing with the "containers" inside the hatches or just some hatch framing, I think it would work well with ether case.
It's shame about the grab-rail mount location, running those drains right into the cockpit would have been ideal. I suspect the weep holes will work just as well.
Great work all-around on the hatches and gutters, that seems like a straightforward model to follow whether you're dealing with the "containers" inside the hatches or just some hatch framing, I think it would work well with ether case.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Working on hatch lids today and need to determine the location of backing for the hinges. Is there any rule-of-thumb for hinge placement relative to the length of the hatch? I’ve got two small hatches that are of no concern - but I have one that’s 32”.
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
I put mine pretty close to the corners on the long ones in hope's that they may discourage warping. Good question on rule of thumb, dont know about that.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
I got the same thing to figure out, Trent. My plan was to just eyeball it and see what looked right.
I do plan on reviewing some photos of other boats and shoot for something similar.
I do plan on reviewing some photos of other boats and shoot for something similar.
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- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 167
- Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2021 10:29 am
- Location: Big Pine Key, FL
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
It’s been a while since my last progress post. It’s a rainy vacation day and I’m away from the boat, so I have some time on my hands. Current status is that the deck is glued and ready for glass. As you guys know, there have been a myriad of small tasks to get to that point and I’ve been doing them concurrently – so my pictures and timeline are all over the place. I wanted to make sure that finishing out the deck was a fairly painless process and I’ve been spending a lot of time on “underneath” areas that you won’t see but would be a royal PITA to do after the deck is glued down. That included:
Hatches - fitting the lids for ¼” gap all around
Laying out the pieces:
After glue-up, using some hole saw discards to form the epoxy corner interior radius
My hinge mortise jig
Dry-fitting the latches
Neat epoxy & glass
Fairing & priming the sole and hatches
Started thinking about how to hang the electrical and fuel lines where there’s no conduit. I had planned on typical screw in hangers. Then started wondering if I should overdrill and epoxy those holes. Then thought about what I would need to do for future additions or repairs. Decided against that method and chose to make some hangers for the underside of the gunwales and forward deck:
Also added some hangers for courtesy lights:
Finishing all those hard-to-get-to-underside surfaces:
Glued the deck:
Here’s a pick of the underside finish. Removing the tape that was protecting from squeeze out and the various positions I had to get in to see what I was doing confirmed my decision to get this part of the finish work behind me:
Finally selected a rubrail. I had always planned on Taco, but my planning turned out to be a little off. I couldn’t find a Taco model that fit perfectly what I had built. So then I started considering a bright rubrail and did a lot of research into that as the bow and the stern “corners” would need to be steam bent or more likely, laminated due to the tight radii. I had always avoided a bright rubrail for maintenance reasons. I’ve already got plenty of things to maintain. So I took another look at Tessilmare, specifically the R-30. Jeff at BBC was kind enough to get me a sample and I think it’s going to be perfect. Note that I think I have it upside down here. I think the intent is that the “lip” is designed to hug the deck seam on a production boat. That won’t work for me, but this will:
This is where she is now:
- Neat epoxing and painting the underside of the hatch gutters. Not fun unless you like to work upside down. Because of the way I boxed in my hatch compartments, the underside of the gutters is a “finished” surface that I’ll want to clean from time to time.
- Also, because of the way I reduced the cockpit and have overhanging deck “cubbies”, I wanted those areas faired and finished in advance of the deck – to avoid some back breaking positions that I’d have to get in otherwise and avoid the sloppy work caused by that. While I was at it, I faired and primed the sole and inside of the gunwales too.
- Got all the holes cut in the deck: Lift eye, cleats, rod holders, anchor light & trolling motor plug.
- Built and finished the hatches and mortised for hinges.
- Overdrilled and filled hardware screw holes.
- Neat epoxy on the underside of deck pieces.
- Installed lift eye and nav lights. All other electrical has easy access with the deck in place.
- And finally decided on a rubrail (Thanks Jeff – I will be ordering soon)
Hatches - fitting the lids for ¼” gap all around
Laying out the pieces:
After glue-up, using some hole saw discards to form the epoxy corner interior radius
My hinge mortise jig
Dry-fitting the latches
Neat epoxy & glass
Fairing & priming the sole and hatches
Started thinking about how to hang the electrical and fuel lines where there’s no conduit. I had planned on typical screw in hangers. Then started wondering if I should overdrill and epoxy those holes. Then thought about what I would need to do for future additions or repairs. Decided against that method and chose to make some hangers for the underside of the gunwales and forward deck:
Also added some hangers for courtesy lights:
Finishing all those hard-to-get-to-underside surfaces:
Glued the deck:
Here’s a pick of the underside finish. Removing the tape that was protecting from squeeze out and the various positions I had to get in to see what I was doing confirmed my decision to get this part of the finish work behind me:
Finally selected a rubrail. I had always planned on Taco, but my planning turned out to be a little off. I couldn’t find a Taco model that fit perfectly what I had built. So then I started considering a bright rubrail and did a lot of research into that as the bow and the stern “corners” would need to be steam bent or more likely, laminated due to the tight radii. I had always avoided a bright rubrail for maintenance reasons. I’ve already got plenty of things to maintain. So I took another look at Tessilmare, specifically the R-30. Jeff at BBC was kind enough to get me a sample and I think it’s going to be perfect. Note that I think I have it upside down here. I think the intent is that the “lip” is designed to hug the deck seam on a production boat. That won’t work for me, but this will:
This is where she is now:
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Very nice work!!!! Jeff
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
That looks incredible! I like the hatch lids. I wanted to do a lip around the perimeter but I struggled with how to do the corners. That's a great idea!
I guess if mine warp and I have to rebuild them then I will plan for that.
I guess if mine warp and I have to rebuild them then I will plan for that.
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