Yeah - they need to come off. Bottom plate is likely off too, but is less exaggerated. I’ll try to look at it this way - after today, I will have stitched up a boat twice and am one step closer to becoming and expert
Not on you Jeff - appreciate all of your input. I never thought that reading dimensions would be my biggest challenge (to date) on this build.
Trent's FS14 LS Build
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Just a small challenge and only a slight set back.
I’m confident that before your project is over it will probably not be the biggest challenge you face.
Hopefully you can avoid the worst by learning from the rest of us that have had, shall we say, some doozies.
A word of warning, when mixing epoxy, 2 part primers and 2 part paints, take your time to ensure that you have the correct ratio of resin & hardener and mix thoroughly before applying. Mixing problems lead to very big, messy and time consuming challenges. A 30 second mistake can take weeks to repair when it comes to epoxy, fairing compound, primer and paint.
Best wishes for continued success.
I’m confident that before your project is over it will probably not be the biggest challenge you face.
Hopefully you can avoid the worst by learning from the rest of us that have had, shall we say, some doozies.
A word of warning, when mixing epoxy, 2 part primers and 2 part paints, take your time to ensure that you have the correct ratio of resin & hardener and mix thoroughly before applying. Mixing problems lead to very big, messy and time consuming challenges. A 30 second mistake can take weeks to repair when it comes to epoxy, fairing compound, primer and paint.
Best wishes for continued success.
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
I’m going to confirm it all before I trim and will report back
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
And thankfully, after we finished the stitching, my buddy suggested that I take a break and come back to it tomorrow. Otherwise, I probably would have started the spot welding and this would be a much bigger and costlier fix.
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Well I owe you a few beers at least, or at least some boxed wine if you have gout like I do.Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Tue Mar 30, 2021 7:42 am Yeah - they need to come off. Bottom plate is likely off too, but is less exaggerated. I’ll try to look at it this way - after today, I will have stitched up a boat twice and am one step closer to becoming and expert
Not on you Jeff - appreciate all of your input. I never thought that reading dimensions would be my biggest challenge (to date) on this build.
Glad to see you taking it in stride. As the "senior" members here like to say, Ain't nuthin' but a thing.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
On the mixing. A former member saved my bacon with a tip that I still use.
If you do that it is tough to mess up the ratios.“cracker larry” wrote:On your mixing table put the resin on the right corner. Put red solo cups on that side and use them to hold resin premix. Put your hardener in the right corner and use anything other than red cups to hold it premix. Measure out all that you need for a job pairing the red and “not red”. Then mix a pair and use it. Keep going till done.
To measure easily get clear solo cups, a red and a green perm marker. Pour any amount of water (about 1/3 of a batch) into one cup (call this cupA). Use the green marker to mark the level on cupA. Pour cupA contents into a second cup (call this cupB). Refill cupA to the green mark and pour it into cupB. Now mark the water level on cupB with the RED marker. You now have cupA marked for hardener and cupB marked for resin in a 2:1 ratio (change the number of pours from cupA to cupB if you use a different ratio epoxy). You can just reuse them as needed as long as you don’t mix them up or get contamination in them.
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
That's pretty sage.Jaysen wrote: ↑Tue Mar 30, 2021 9:39 am On the mixing. A former member saved my bacon with a tip that I still use.
If you do that it is tough to mess up the ratios.“cracker larry” wrote:On your mixing table put the resin on the right corner. Put red solo cups on that side and use them to hold resin premix. Put your hardener in the right corner and use anything other than red cups to hold it premix. Measure out all that you need for a job pairing the red and “not red”. Then mix a pair and use it. Keep going till done.
To measure easily get clear solo cups, a red and a green perm marker. Pour any amount of water (about 1/3 of a batch) into one cup (call this cupA). Use the green marker to mark the level on cupA. Pour cupA contents into a second cup (call this cupB). Refill cupA to the green mark and pour it into cupB. Now mark the water level on cupB with the RED marker. You now have cupA marked for hardener and cupB marked for resin in a 2:1 ratio (change the number of pours from cupA to cupB if you use a different ratio epoxy). You can just reuse them as needed as long as you don’t mix them up or get contamination in them.
I'm gonna offer my .02 on mixing small quantities of gel-magic, which does not lend itself to being poured into cups.
I use clear, plastic cocktail cups for gel-magic. Put the cup on the scale, tare it. Use a large tongue depressor to add a glob of resin. Read the weight of the resin and look it up on the mixing chart you printed out and hung on the wall. Use a second large tongue depressor to add a glob about half the size of the first, and then add/remove small amounts until the scale indicates the correct total amount. Wipe the sticks and leave them on top of their respective buckets. Use a third TD to stir, I usually use small ones for that. I have a quart container of tonge depressors and a quart container of cocktail cups hanging right above my mixing station.
This is what I have on my wall. Resin weight in left col, total weight in right column.
Also: I've moved away from syringes, they're a bit of a pita to load. I have a metal coffee mug into which I place a quart ziplock. I dump the mixed goo into the corner of the ziplock, twist, and then cut the corner for the size bead I want. If it's small qty, I can get 2 sessions out of a bag, one for each corner, as long as the qty's are small.
I do this nearly constantly since my particular boat is 99% fiddly bits.
For welding the seams, I would splurge and use syringes, they are defnitnely nice for bigger jobs like that.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Happy to say that it’s fixed now. Recut the panels and stitched her back up. Have a couple of very minor hard spots to massage. Will post some
pics tonight. Appreciate all the input.
pics tonight. Appreciate all the input.
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
Awesome!Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Tue Mar 30, 2021 12:53 pm Happy to say that it’s fixed now. Recut the panels and stitched her back up. Have a couple of very minor hard spots to massage. Will post some
pics tonight. Appreciate all the input.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Re: Trent's FS14 LS Build
That's a good idea. I find that by weighing in grams it's easier to do math in my head. If the ratio is 100:46 that's 10:4.6, and it's easy to mentally do any multiple of that. I've gone a small as 1:0.4 and it works fine. If you measure in oz it's all more difficult to do mentally. Totally agree on having supplies in bulk at your mixing station.VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Tue Mar 30, 2021 10:00 am
That's pretty sage.
I'm gonna offer my .02 on mixing small quantities of gel-magic, which does not lend itself to being poured into cups.
I use clear, plastic cocktail cups for gel-magic. Put the cup on the scale, tare it. Use a large tongue depressor to add a glob of resin. Read the weight of the resin and look it up on the mixing chart you printed out and hung on the wall. Use a second large tongue depressor to add a glob about half the size of the first, and then add/remove small amounts until the scale indicates the correct total amount. Wipe the sticks and leave them on top of their respective buckets. Use a third TD to stir, I usually use small ones for that. I have a quart container of tonge depressors and a quart container of cocktail cups hanging right above my mixing station.
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