Marshall's FS17
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Dan - Thanks! I've decided against wet-on-wet. Probably an experience issue. I am making some progress and should tape soon.
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Radius at transom
Making some good progress and hope to tape towards week's end. Question: Do I form a radius on all panels at the transom (bottom and side)? I'm assuming "yes." I've attached an illustration provided by Fallguy during a previous forum discussion.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Anything that gets glass needs a radius.
On the transom, the bottom to dwl needs to be returned to sharpish. I prefer the sharpen the entire transom. But sandpaper break razor sharp edges so paints can adhere and not move away.
On the transom, the bottom to dwl needs to be returned to sharpish. I prefer the sharpen the entire transom. But sandpaper break razor sharp edges so paints can adhere and not move away.
Last edited by fallguy1000 on Tue Nov 30, 2021 10:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Right, you radius it for glassing, then once glasses you sharpen the edge under water with thickened epoxy.
Water will break off of a sharp edge cleanly, but will roll up and follow a radiuses edge which causes drag at the rear and shoots water up the forward sides.
Water will break off of a sharp edge cleanly, but will roll up and follow a radiuses edge which causes drag at the rear and shoots water up the forward sides.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Thanks!
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Bow Shape
About ready to tape and looking at my fillet on the bow. I'm assuming no sharp edges due to tape and glass? Semi-rounded or work hard on an emphasized constant radius? I still need to sand a bit and work on some imperfections but thought some answers to these questions might be wise now before going any further.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Take the glass you are planning on using and make sure it will go around the stem very easy. Much better to round that over too much than not enough.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
I fear I might have caught something others missed. You mentioned a precoat in the initial stage. Was this all the wood surfaces, or just edges? Any wood anywhere coated with epoxy more than a day old (depends on brand and type) must be sanded with ~80grit before laying coats or glass on top. You can't overdo this, going to bare wood is not an issue. But everything must be toothed good, and clean. Major amounts of dust need to be removed, but small amounts will be incorporated into the epoxy as filler.
I precoated the inside of my boat as I was building outside. When the time came to do the inside I did it in sections (I'm a slow worker) and spent about 2 hours sanding each section multiple times. Probably overkill. It can help to fill the weave of glass within 24 hours with a loose mix to provide a more uniform surface to sand and glass too. If you can hit it again with the next layer of glass in less than 3 days there will usually still be some chemical bonding but I would always sand/scratch thoroughly anything that's over a day old.
I precoated the inside of my boat as I was building outside. When the time came to do the inside I did it in sections (I'm a slow worker) and spent about 2 hours sanding each section multiple times. Probably overkill. It can help to fill the weave of glass within 24 hours with a loose mix to provide a more uniform surface to sand and glass too. If you can hit it again with the next layer of glass in less than 3 days there will usually still be some chemical bonding but I would always sand/scratch thoroughly anything that's over a day old.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Yes I did pre-coat (all surfaces). I was unaware that I needed to sand before tape and glass.
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