Marshall's FS17

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cape man
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by cape man »

You just need to rough up the hardened epoxy to get a physical bond with the glass and next layer of epoxy. If you go to bare wood make sure to precoat it with neat epoxy before applying the glass. Let it soak in for a few hours to make sure the wood isn't "starved" before laying glass.
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MarshallTX
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by MarshallTX »

All good inputs; thank you. I'll sand/rough all areas before I tape and glass. Much appreciated!

OneWayTraffic
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by OneWayTraffic »

In the fillets vs cleats thread I posted a really informative article on the mechanics and chemical side of getting good bonding. It's well worth a read, you will learn something.

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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by MarshallTX »

Sounds interesting; will read today. Thank you.

fallguy1000
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by fallguy1000 »

MarshallTX wrote: Mon Dec 06, 2021 10:13 pm All good inputs; thank you. I'll sand/rough all areas before I tape and glass. Much appreciated!
This is critical. I have sanded a few places where I figured I could go by the 72 hour Silvertip bond window and I was not pleased with layer on layer adhesion. Now, I sand anything cured overnite.
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MarshallTX
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Transom radius - prep for glass

Post by MarshallTX »

Does the radius need to be precise across the dimension of the transom? I don't have a router but can certainly buy/borrow. Would sanding be adequate (even though not consistent)?
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Reid
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by Reid »

In my opinion, sanding is more than fine. I have always been able to eyeball and hand sand the radius. You will be able to dial in the final edge once it is glassed and you move to the fairing stage.

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fallguy1000
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by fallguy1000 »

2nd Reid.

Run a good sander like a Festool RtS 400 or work by hand a flat about 1/4" wide on a 45 and then round it put by flattening each angle.

I cut down a piece of pvc like 1.5" or 1.25" on the table saw. Glue it on a piece of wood with a hot glue gun. Rip it down to about 1/3rd size.

Put velcro on the inside and you can put 1/4 sheet papers with hook n loop on it. Just be a little gentle removing them.

40 grit paper will remove a lot of wood nicely
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OneWayTraffic
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by OneWayTraffic »

I'm all about the grinder with 20grit for this kind of sanding. Routers work fine, but the radius needs to be big enough. If you use a grinder then you can get'er'done quickly. One trick is to use a circular saw with the blade set to 45 degrees down the edges. If you are careful and brave enough, it works well and then you can sand the transitions. When you glass it I find I can get the glass to stick better with a thickened epoxy on the curve, under the initial layer.

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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by MarshallTX »

All great inputs; thanks! Hope to make some good progress this weekend...

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