Marshall's FS17

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narfi
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by narfi »

Hehe... 85 cooling down to 75....

But you aren't working in optimal. Mine turned out fine in Alaska, so just do the best with what you have :)

TomW1
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by TomW1 »

Marshaall just seal off your work area wilt a double layer of plastic from the the other part of the garage. This is what I did as my garage if a 3 bay also. It also kept the other side clean. I don't know what epoky you have but 70-75 degrees is a good temp to work and keep your work space at both day and night.
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

MarshallTX
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by MarshallTX »

More good advice; thank you. Working now to prep my area for tape and glass. Should start that in a day or so...

MarshallTX
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Puzzle joint splice

Post by MarshallTX »

I don't see a splice requirement in the building notes. However, many in the forum seem to recommend. Unless someone advises otherwise, I plan to accomplish on all joints. Questions: Is it as simple as a single piece of 6" fiberglass tape (with epoxy) down/parallel with the joint? Is something more required? This also seems easiest during the taping process of the panels. Correct? Any inputs greatly appreciated!
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narfi
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by narfi »

That's what I did cutting my own panels so just two straight panel ends without the puzzle joints. A layer of 6" tape, flip it over after cure and 6" tape on the other side.

Make sure you have a good flat surface when you first assemble with good flat surface and weights on top.... You really don't want it epoxied together unevenly.....

MarshallTX
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by MarshallTX »

Narfi - Thanks!

fallguy1000
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by fallguy1000 »

If not in the building notes; I'd be inclined to only tab that joint on the inside; especially if the joint gets covered with more than a 6 oz woven. Simply because fairing that would be more work. So much depends on requirements and finish. Requirements always must be met. If you want a great finish, fairing that seam is harder to make it vanish..

Of course, I have not built a ply boat, but plan to do so.

Seems like the designer ought to say. If this is a cnc kit; Reid ought to have an idea as well.

On the other hand, a 6 oz tape is fairly thin and you can fix the bump with compounds and work...
My boat build is here -------->

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PapaDave
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by PapaDave »

I always cover my puzzle joints inside and out with 6 inch wide glass tape. The interior is certainly a must in my opinion if it is not already covered with the scheduled glass lay-up. I hit a log with my SK 14 and the hull puzzle joint cracked a little bit but I did not have any glass at that interior joint. I ended up cutting into the deck and putting tape in those areas. The image is my Panga 22 at the exterior puzzle joint. I will do the same layup on the interior of the puzzle joint.
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TomW1
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by TomW1 »

I would at least cover the puzzle joints on the bottom of the hull with 6" tape where the most pressure is received. The 12oz on the sides should be enough for the side puzzle joints to reinforce them.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

MarshallTX
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Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by MarshallTX »

Tom, PapaDave, Fallguy - Just saw these replies. Much appreciated! I just completed taping and about to post a few questions. - Thanks, Marshall

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