That one would work. Thanks TomTomW1 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 25, 2022 2:28 pm Jeff sells several laminating rollers, but I think this was the one fallguy was thinking of,
https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/prod ... -roller-6/
Tom
Marshall's FS17
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Re: Marshall's FS17
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Tape Splice
I've removed a suspect area of tape (see previous posts). I now have to re-tape the bow and then back a foot or so into the keel. All of these areas (bow, keel) require 2 layers of tape. Q: When applying these new tape layers, can I simply butt the new tape to where the old tape ends or will a splice be required? A splice on top of 2 layers might add a bit of thickness, but can certainly be accomplished if needed. Any suggestions?
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Re: Tape Splice
I'd overlap the joins by 6".MarshallTX wrote: ↑Sun Mar 27, 2022 6:33 pm I've removed a suspect area of tape (see previous posts). I now have to re-tape the bow and then back a foot or so into the keel. All of these areas (bow, keel) require 2 layers of tape. Q: When applying these new tape layers, can I simply butt the new tape to where the old tape ends or will a splice be required? A splice on top of 2 layers might add a bit of thickness, but can certainly be accomplished if needed. Any suggestions?
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Re: Tape Splice
Depends where it is...Barraman is not wrong, but you might be able to get away with less, or patching and a full nother tape might be easier to fair.MarshallTX wrote: ↑Sun Mar 27, 2022 6:33 pm I've removed a suspect area of tape (see previous posts). I now have to re-tape the bow and then back a foot or so into the keel. All of these areas (bow, keel) require 2 layers of tape. Q: When applying these new tape layers, can I simply butt the new tape to where the old tape ends or will a splice be required? A splice on top of 2 layers might add a bit of thickness, but can certainly be accomplished if needed. Any suggestions?
So pictures would help..
You can also taper grind the good tapes for 3" and lay on the new tape if biax tapes and taper grind them to get things fairer, for example. But not with a 6oz woven..
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Re: Tape Splice
The attached pic is not real good, but all I have right now to send. It would be easy to butt a new double/overlapping run against what exists. A splice makes sense, but not sure it's required.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
You don't want to develop hook in the hull, so for that spot, I'd sand the remaining tape to zero in 3", lay another tape over it to the zero point and sand it to flat after it cures. If any of this is not understood, please ask again. If you sand into the wood too much, make thickened resin before adding new tape..
On the inside of the transom, I'd add another tape over spec. All tapes must be staggerred when you add. They never stack over each other on their width. The exception will be your repair tape.
Pic added.
Black is existing tape ground to taper.
Gold is new tape.
Red shows sanding off to flat concept.
On the inside of the transom, I'd add another tape over spec. All tapes must be staggerred when you add. They never stack over each other on their width. The exception will be your repair tape.
Pic added.
Black is existing tape ground to taper.
Gold is new tape.
Red shows sanding off to flat concept.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Some confusion on my part. Is this accurate: Sand the existing tape back to approximately 3 inches, then lay the new tape onto the sanded/reduced area. Correct? Is another piece on-top suggested or not? Sorry for the confusion, just want to get this right. Also, what are the do’s and don’ts when sanding tape? Can I get into any trouble?
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Taper what you have. The tape thickness is about 0.035". Sand the cut edge at the bottom off and make a taper for 3". See pic.MarshallTX wrote: ↑Mon Mar 28, 2022 10:56 am Some confusion on my part. Is this accurate: Sand the existing tape back to approximately 3 inches, then lay the new tape onto the sanded/reduced area. Correct? Is another piece on-top suggested or not? Sorry for the confusion, just want to get this right. Also, what are the do’s and don’ts when sanding tape? Can I get into any trouble?
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Dos and don'ts...
Well, sanding makes fines, so I recommend gloves or that stuff gets into finger webs and washing won't remove it.
If you can't get the thing feathered real well, you might need to use some thickened epoxy when you lay the new tape, but it should work.
Another option is to remove the entire tape and start over, but not sure if that is a top tape or under the others. If it is a top tape; that may be easier, but if it is under; then you have to grind the remainder down that way as well.
Well, sanding makes fines, so I recommend gloves or that stuff gets into finger webs and washing won't remove it.
If you can't get the thing feathered real well, you might need to use some thickened epoxy when you lay the new tape, but it should work.
Another option is to remove the entire tape and start over, but not sure if that is a top tape or under the others. If it is a top tape; that may be easier, but if it is under; then you have to grind the remainder down that way as well.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
No matter what you do, you can't leave the jagged edge you have now.
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