Fallguy and Pee Wee - All great advice. I've jumped into the "resin calculator" at BBC. I will be using 12oz glass.
- At a practical level, how do I achieve 40% glass? I understand the calculation and strategy/goal, but how is that accomplished?
- What does does a proper amount of epoxy look like during application over the glass fabric? Thin, thick, etc.?
Again, much appreciated! -- Marshall
Marshall's FS17
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Re: Marshall's FS17
I think you mis-phrased your question, it should have been, How do I use 40% resin? This takes practice and a normal first time builder normally achieves 50% at best. If your not careful you can get areas that are epoxy starved. Well good luck and take it one step at a time and allow a 6" overlap at the keel for both pieces.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: Marshall's FS17
There are many worse things you can do to a boat other than being a little over generous with the resin. It will weigh more, cost more, and not be stronger. However it will still be strong enough and the difference in cost and weight is relatively small in the big scheme of things. By all means go for a good wet out with minimal epoxy, but don't lose sleep over using too much resin.
I roughly estimate mine per square area, add on a little for the wood if need be, and then pour it on. I use a spreader to move it around and then let it soak in for a bit. Then when it goes clear I use the spreader at a 45 degree angle with moderate pressure to remove excess. This excess will often be foamy, no good for wetting out. Put it into a spare container.
If everything aligns and it's a big job you can take the foamy excess, mix in some fresh epoxy and some filler and use it to fill the weave on an area that you have already done, as long as the epoxy has gelled there. This can help prevent waste. You can store mixed epoxy in the freezer if you need to buy an hour or two.
I roughly estimate mine per square area, add on a little for the wood if need be, and then pour it on. I use a spreader to move it around and then let it soak in for a bit. Then when it goes clear I use the spreader at a 45 degree angle with moderate pressure to remove excess. This excess will often be foamy, no good for wetting out. Put it into a spare container.
If everything aligns and it's a big job you can take the foamy excess, mix in some fresh epoxy and some filler and use it to fill the weave on an area that you have already done, as long as the epoxy has gelled there. This can help prevent waste. You can store mixed epoxy in the freezer if you need to buy an hour or two.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
40%...sounds complex; it ain'tMarshallTX wrote: ↑Sun Apr 03, 2022 5:28 pm Fallguy and Pee Wee - All great advice. I've jumped into the "resin calculator" at BBC. I will be using 12oz glass.
- At a practical level, how do I achieve 40% glass? I understand the calculation and strategy/goal, but how is that accomplished?
- What does does a proper amount of epoxy look like during application over the glass fabric? Thin, thick, etc.?
Again, much appreciated! -- Marshall
So, say you are wetting one yard of 12 oz glass
Needs 12oz of mixed resins by weight
Bottom substrate gets 2 oz minimum to 40%. 40% is 4.8oz by weight.
So, you roll out 40% on the substrate, roll the cloth, then roll 60% on the fabric or 7.2 oz for the top
This is a little nonsense for one yard. But for more, it makes a lot of sense and helps avoid losing batches..
Take note, I did not convert to volumes here.
Let me know if you are still confused. Biax is two layers of glass and wets nicer from each side then top down only..
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Take a look at the C-19 thread in builders power boats. In the last picture he posted he shows his gunwales. They are wet out well but you can still see the stitching.This is what you are shooting for, wet out well but not so much resin that you float the glass. After it dries you can sand off the stitching and move on.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
This is extremely helpful. GREAT suggestions. MANY thanks!
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Fuzz - Who's C-19?
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Re: Marshall's FS17
viewtopic.php?t=64446&start=480
Dans C19 in Richmond. His build thread is in the builders power boat section.
Dans C19 in Richmond. His build thread is in the builders power boat section.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Outstanding; thank you.
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Glassing complete, fairing is next
About to start the fairing process. My understanding is a medium-thick fairing epoxy mixture applied to all parts of the hull. Multiple layers with multiple sandings between each. I would guess the initial coats of fairing would have minimal sanding and then more sanding as the process develops. Is there a min/max fairing thickness? How is the best way to develop an edge along the chine and transom? What are the common mistakes? What other tips and techniques exist? Lots of questions and always ready to listen and learn...
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