Marshall's FS17
Re: Marshall's FS17
Looks really good Marshall!!! Jeff
Re: Marshall's FS17
Looks good.
Did you use ply for the rub rail? Or . . .?
Jbo
Did you use ply for the rub rail? Or . . .?
Jbo
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Jeff, Jbo - Thanks! I hope to make some good progress this summer. Yes, the rub rails were plywood.
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Stringer Install
The interior is glassed and I've positioned the stringers and Molds. I see many posts on the forum about "twists" in the hull. I'm manipulating the hull to match the measurements from each Mold corner to the top of the side panel/rub rail and also diagonally measuring/matching the distance from Mold-corners to Mold-corners. Is this a good strategy? Is there a better way?
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Re: Marshall's FS17
You need to avoid overmanipulating and the greatest thing to avoid is developing hook in the bottom.
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Re: Marshall's FS17
Fallguy - Thanks; I'll make minor adjustments and move forward. - Marshall
Re: Marshall's FS17
Looking very good and like fg says make sure you keep any hook out of the last few feet of the bottom. This should have been done before you fliipped but so be it. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: Marshall's FS17
FS17 Fuel:
VERY hot summer in Texas and finally cooler temps for some boat building!
I’m trying now to craft a fuel strategy. My current plan is a built-in tank between A-B and between the stringers. Some posts on the forum indicate that the FS17 might be a bit tail-heavy and forward weight may be a good idea. Others indicate that everything needs to be mid-hull.
The tank that might be used is a Moeller 12 gallon (approx. 24”L X 18”W X 7”H). I’d then put 2 batteries in the console.
Questions: Good or bad plan? The decking above the tank needs to be strong enough to walk on; would this be a challenge? The tank size might be overkill but this seems to be one of the smallest low-profile products I could find. Restricting to half capacity might be a good idea due to weight? What kind of access is needed for a permanent tank?
A crude sketch below. Ideas or inputs greatly appreciated!
VERY hot summer in Texas and finally cooler temps for some boat building!
I’m trying now to craft a fuel strategy. My current plan is a built-in tank between A-B and between the stringers. Some posts on the forum indicate that the FS17 might be a bit tail-heavy and forward weight may be a good idea. Others indicate that everything needs to be mid-hull.
The tank that might be used is a Moeller 12 gallon (approx. 24”L X 18”W X 7”H). I’d then put 2 batteries in the console.
Questions: Good or bad plan? The decking above the tank needs to be strong enough to walk on; would this be a challenge? The tank size might be overkill but this seems to be one of the smallest low-profile products I could find. Restricting to half capacity might be a good idea due to weight? What kind of access is needed for a permanent tank?
A crude sketch below. Ideas or inputs greatly appreciated!
Re: Marshall's FS17
I definitely don’t think it’s a bad idea, just depends on what you want. I believe an in deck tank has to have venting and fill tubes and access to the fuel gage sender. I know I’m my factory boat I don’t have access to the whole tank. Just waterproofed covers that I can unscrew and get access to the fill and vent hoses and the fuel sending unit. Definitely would recommend making the deck sturdy to walk on. It’s your boat. Make it yours all the way! She’s lookin sharp
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