Marshall's FS17

Power Boats only. Please include the boat type in your question.
MarshallTX
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 122
Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2021 1:47 pm
Location: Nothr Texas

Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by MarshallTX »

Understood. All great inputs; thank you! One last question: After I taper and then lay the new tape, is a splice-piece between old and new required?

fallguy1000
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 10198
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:25 am

Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by fallguy1000 »

MarshallTX wrote: Mon Mar 28, 2022 11:34 am Understood. All great inputs; thank you! One last question: After I taper and then lay the new tape, is a splice-piece between old and new required?
No. You lay the new piece up just passed where the old tape is full thickness. Then after it cures, take a 2-4' level and it will rock on the old tape and new tape intersection. Sand it until the level rocks no more.

Make sure the level is a good flat one!

Look at my first picture the red line is the sanding flat part best I could do pictorally.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

MarshallTX
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 122
Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2021 1:47 pm
Location: Nothr Texas

Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by MarshallTX »

Makes sense now; much appreciated!

MarshallTX
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 122
Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2021 1:47 pm
Location: Nothr Texas

About to glass the hull

Post by MarshallTX »

I hope to glass the hull in the next few days. Many questions along with the need for guidance (will accomplish using 2 people): I pre-coated all wood with epoxy before framing and then sanded. Do I need to pre-wet before laying the glass cloth? It seems most on the forum did not, but wanted to get inputs. Any suggestions on relief cuts? I plan on two sheets and will overlap each on the keel line. Also, any tips on a general approach and a glassing tempo would be appreciated!

fallguy1000
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 10198
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:25 am

Re: About to glass the hull

Post by fallguy1000 »

MarshallTX wrote: Sat Apr 02, 2022 10:24 am I hope to glass the hull in the next few days. Many questions along with the need for guidance (will accomplish using 2 people): I pre-coated all wood with epoxy before framing and then sanded. Do I need to pre-wet before laying the glass cloth? It seems most on the forum did not, but wanted to get inputs. Any suggestions on relief cuts? I plan on two sheets and will overlap each on the keel line. Also, any tips on a general approach and a glassing tempo would be appreciated!
It all depends on the glass.

Glass of 12oz biax will wet down through, but never as easy as some under first. Lighter no mat glass tends to get a little snaky, so you will want to dry lay all the glass first AND mark it and the boat for lengths of the glass to avoid pulling or pushing and getting lengths messed up.

For biax, I prefer to dry lay and mark the glass and the boat every 3', think snake references. Then I wet with a roller at 40% of the glass weight OR at least 2oz per yard, plus some for a paint roller. Keep a squeegee around to get epoxy out of whatever paint roller you use.

Try to avoid mixing errors. An error is a bad nightmare. Do NOT allow anyone else to mix. If you plan to mix per side or per piece or per piece at the bottom amounts, write Batch codes on the jugs. You can have helper stir, but you own the mix errors always. 300 gallons of epoxy use here and 3 mix errors...two were using 2 oz hardener and 1 oz resin on 3 oz batches..don't ask me how I messed those up, but I did

Then if biax, roll the area you plan to roll the glass real quick with 2oz per yard or up to 40%
Of the glass weight. This is subject to gravity, so can't give you total advice. Sides won't hold it. Roll the fabric on off a 3" cardboard tube to marks. Quickly roll over it with bubble buster. Then spot dump the other amounts and squeegee or paint roller as even as possible. Squeegee heavy areas. Never try to finish roll with paint roller as it lifts glass. If using one hour epoxy, about 30 minutes in, squeegee out the paint roller if using one and shitcan it. I like the adjesive rollers 1/8 from HD the best for this work.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

fallguy1000
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 10198
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:25 am

Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by fallguy1000 »

The helper should hold the glass if you are rolling it off a tube. It likes to walk off the starting spots.

As for reliefs or darts, plan all aheas of time. You can use a light hold tiny piece of masking tape for dryfitting, but it does like to mess up the glass easy.

Overlaps, always wet the area well; the glass won't wet down through 4 layers of biax well. So, the first area must be wetted well.

There is no reason to rush. If you are getting close to gel times, make sure to acetone wash all your tools and start again. Getting gelled epoxy on rollers and squeegee is a nightmare.

I keep acetone in a 5 gallon bucket about an inch deep with a lid. You can toss tools in their that are solvent resistant and wash them quick.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

pee wee
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 2276
Joined: Sun May 01, 2011 8:29 am
Location: Georgia

Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by pee wee »

A tip Cracker Larry used that I thought was worth repeating: he calculated and then measured all the epoxy he was going to need before beginning the layup. He used two colors of solo cups- red for resin and blue for hardener, had them placed on a nearby table. I don't recall how much he put in each cup, but they were not close to full. It was an amount he felt he could handle comfortably without worrying about it setting up too quickly. Pick up one red cup and one blue cup, combine and mix, pour onto hull. By doing it this way there was no need to rush the measuring process- similar to fitting and marking the glass while dry, it's another thing that can be done free of time pressure.
Hank

fallguy1000
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 10198
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:25 am

Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by fallguy1000 »

pee wee wrote: Sun Apr 03, 2022 10:26 am A tip Cracker Larry used that I thought was worth repeating: he calculated and then measured all the epoxy he was going to need before beginning the layup. He used two colors of solo cups- red for resin and blue for hardener, had them placed on a nearby table. I don't recall how much he put in each cup, but they were not close to full. It was an amount he felt he could handle comfortably without worrying about it setting up too quickly. Pick up one red cup and one blue cup, combine and mix, pour onto hull. By doing it this way there was no need to rush the measuring process- similar to fitting and marking the glass while dry, it's another thing that can be done free of time pressure.
Yes. On big jobs, I batch all my containers, so for a job like this one, probably three batches or four per side.

Batch A might be 40% of the first panels weight. Two jugs, one for hardener, one for resin, I prefer same size jugs and clear so I can see they look right.
Mix then roll.

Batch B might be the 60% batch for the top of the first piece. Mix then roll.

Batch c might be a lighter amount since it is the side panels and gravity a factor. So, say 20 % of the total panel weight. Mix then roll.

Then Batch D maybe 80%. Mix then roll and hope to not lose it all to the floor real bad.. I'd mix and then use a paint roller probably for the initial wetout. Then squeegee it out and squeegee or bubble buster the end.

I like a chip brush 2" to move excess to dry spots as well. Just scrape excess areas with a squeegee into a mixed resin pail and then chip brish any dry spots..
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

fallguy1000
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 10198
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:25 am

Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by fallguy1000 »

Panel weight calc example.

Most important to understand epoxy volumes are lower than epoxy weights for big jobs.

Weigh the glass.
4 yards of 12oz biax=48 ounces or 3#

Translate glass weight to epoxy weight to epoxy volume.

3#/9#/gallon = .3333 gallons x 128 liquid oz per gallon = 43 ounces epoxy, roundemup for rollers, losses to 45 volumetric oz epoxy or 30 liquid oz resin and 15 oz hardener

Take note, 48 ounces of fiberglass is not 48 liquid ounces of epoxy when we say 1:1.... we mean the glass and epoxy weights are the same, not glass weight and epoxy volume!

If you did the epoxy by weight, it would be the same
32 weighed oz resin
16 weighed oz hardener for 2:1 epoxies

I don't use weight for large batches ever. It is really not wise because too many potential errors when you can easily see graduated jugs and quickly realize 30 oz of resin and 15 of hardener for 2:1 epoxies..

epoxy is dense, so the liquid mass is less than the fluid amount...if that makes sense..

So 45 liquid oz epoxy is 45/128 gallons or 0.3515 gallons or 3.1635 pounds...with the roundup

At least familiarize yourself with what I have written; this concept took me awhile to learn on my own..
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

fallguy1000
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 10198
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:25 am

Re: Marshall's FS17

Post by fallguy1000 »

For my examples, you might save some resin, so I decided to write it all up. For a big job, it can add up..
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests