CCTXF20

Power Boats only. Please include the boat type in your question.
Fuzz
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Re: CCTXF20

Post by Fuzz »

Good deal, glad all is well.
Sometimes I wonder if I should even ask but I would hate to see something and not ask.

Matthew Anderson
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Re: CCTXF20

Post by Matthew Anderson »

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Stitching in the transom today. Zip ties across the top to create a hinge, fold it down and stitch to the sides. Worked like a champ, no addition bracing under the transom was needed.

She is all stitched together, time to spend some time underneath with masking tape to keep epoxy from running through when glueing.

I’m having a blast!

Build on!

TomW1
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Re: CCTXF20

Post by TomW1 »

Looking good.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

Jeff
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Re: CCTXF20

Post by Jeff »

Nice progress!!! Jeff

GuyP
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Re: CCTXF20

Post by GuyP »

This part is fun. Most of it was. Once you start laying down glass you’ll be glad when you get the last piece down. Filling weave and fairing were also enjoyable.

Matthew Anderson
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Re: CCTXF20

Post by Matthew Anderson »

Just a few pictures from Dad’s and my fishing trip today. I turned 50 yesterday, dad is 70. Another decade on the water together. I am blessed beyond measure. I hope to have many days like this in the CCTXF20.
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Progress pictures on the boat are coming soon.

Matthew Anderson
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Re: CCTXF20

Post by Matthew Anderson »

There has been much debate on when to stitch in the tunnel. Jacques wrote in the plans to cover the entire bottom panel with 1708 then cut out for the tunnel and tab in with 1708, then cover the tunnel with 1708. I think I like this method.

Jacques can you chime in on the advantage of installing the tunnel after glassing in the bottom?

Pictures of chine tabbing and splices. I did not use any butt blocks, only 12oz bias tape.
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Dougster
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Re: CCTXF20

Post by Dougster »

Sure looks good, and I smiled when I saw your little scraper. Looks like mine, Linbide I think.

Dougster

Dr Pete
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Re: CCTXF20

Post by Dr Pete »

I know you were wanting an answer from Jacques on the tunnel tabbing schedule. I don’t see that it would make a difference other than which might be easier. I cut out the bottom, stitched and glued and then tabbed in with 2 passes of biax prior to glassing the whole schebang with 1708. When you flip, same thing. Fillets, couple passes of biax and then the whole inside 1708. It would take some catastrophic event for any part of that construction to fail. Boat will break somewhere else before that tunnel area would fail. Your build looks good. Now you tell me exactly where you and your dad caught those fish. Tight lines!

jacquesmm
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Re: CCTXF20

Post by jacquesmm »

For the tunnel: I recommend to assemble the hull bottom without the cut for the tunnel and to cut the opening once the tabbing is done. If you cut the opening before assembly, it is difficult to guarantee a straight running surface. The bottom panel may sag around the tunnel cut.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
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