SK14 Build in NC

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huckleberry
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

I’ve read that the first coat of fairing should be thin to fill the weave and the subsequent 2nd and 3rd coats thicker than the last.
For my deck situation where it’s only tape at the fillets and the entire deck isn’t glassed, how thick, more or less, should the compound be on the glass when finished?
From what I understand, the area I need to “build up” is at the edge of the tape, blending it to the sole. I would assume I would not want any spots where I can still see the tape, even though it’s smooth to the touch?

Also, I’ve knocked down the high spots with 60-80 grit paper on the first pass. What grit do y’all usually progress down to prior to priming? I know it depends on the level of finish you’re trying to achieve, just curious on what’s common for you experienced guys.

Dan_Smullen
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by Dan_Smullen »

I used more 40 grit than anything fairing the bottom of my project. Once level, I sanded to 80, then rolled high build primer, and sanded that to 120 grit. Sprayed surfacing primer, sanded with a guide coat to 320, before spraying topcoat.

I think some version of this will be most efficient. I wasted a lot of time, energy and material sanding fairing compound and primer to 220 and 320 grit.

I now envision the fairing process as going from heavy layers, thickened epoxy, to lighter layers, pre mixed fairing compounds------> progressively lighter layers of paint.

High build----------> surfacing primer-----------> top coat. Each layer gets lighter and thinner.

Glass work and and all is looking great. It should start to sparkle soon!

Dougster
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by Dougster »

I do most everything with 80 grit before primer. Then sand primer with 120 or 150 before paint. I think seeing the tape is ok if it's smooth, but if not you can always sand more after the first coat of primer. Primer tells a story. For me it has usually been "you need to fair a little more" :roll:

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huckleberry
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

Another round of fairing and sanding done. Not sure if it’s my last, but I’m hoping so.
Got the hanger bolts installed, bedded in 4000. One leg of my grab rail was shorter than the rest by 1/4”, so I made a cutout that I will glue under the foot to level it.

One more question on the fairing… hopefully you can see in my pictures, but I have some shallow low spots after sanding, especially in the corners. Everything seems smooth to the touch. In y’all’s experience, do you think the primer is sufficient to fill these spots? Or should I do another round of touch up fairing?

I’ll be using system 3 high build primer.
Also, a few folks have commented that the fairing compound will need a coat of neat epoxy prior to priming. Is that still the case if I’m using the S3 primer? I feel like in some of the builds I’ve seen, there didn’t look to be a near coat prior to primer.

If I do need the neat coat, should I sand the neat epoxy to rough it up before priming?
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TomW1
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by TomW1 »

The primer will not fill the low apots, use your fairing compound to fill them. As far as coating the fairing compound you don't need to do it that is what the primer is for.

Tom
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VT_Jeff
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by VT_Jeff »

huckleberry wrote: Mon Nov 01, 2021 9:54 am One more question on the fairing… hopefully you can see in my pictures, but I have some shallow low spots after sanding, especially in the corners. Everything seems smooth to the touch. In y’all’s experience, do you think the primer is sufficient to fill these spots? Or should I do another round of touch up fairing?

I’ll be using system 3 high build primer.
Also, a few folks have commented that the fairing compound will need a coat of neat epoxy prior to priming. Is that still the case if I’m using the S3 primer? I feel like in some of the builds I’ve seen, there didn’t look to be a near coat prior to primer.

If I do need the neat coat, should I sand the neat epoxy to rough it up before priming?
Really nice looking work!

No experience with S3.

Neat-coating isn't necessary but it is a good/easy way to fill pinholes. I used a wide metal knife and when done, there was very very little epoxy left on, it was just filling whatever didn't get scraped off with the knife. And I would definitely take the shine off it before painting.

If I were you, I would neat-coat, scuff, prime it as-is, and then decide what needs more attention, and do a final round of fairing. It's gonna look a lot different once it's all one color, trouble sports will show much better.
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Dan_Smullen
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by Dan_Smullen »

huckleberry wrote: Mon Nov 01, 2021 9:54 am
One more question on the fairing… hopefully you can see in my pictures, but I have some shallow low spots after sanding, especially in the corners. Everything seems smooth to the touch. In y’all’s experience, do you think the primer is sufficient to fill these spots? Or should I do another round of touch up fairing?

I’ll be using system 3 high build primer.
Also, a few folks have commented that the fairing compound will need a coat of neat epoxy prior to priming. Is that still the case if I’m using the S3 primer? I feel like in some of the builds I’ve seen, there didn’t look to be a near coat prior to primer.

If I do need the neat coat, should I sand the neat epoxy to rough it up before priming?

The areas that appear untouched by sand paper (darker) will likely show under primer. It looks like you have been using phenolic micro balloons. If you want the glossy glass finish, I encourage you to try Quick Fair, Total Fair, or Awl Fair and a stiff metal knife to fill the low areas without building the high spots any further. Then spread the S3.

S3 is relatively thin and will not fill much, but does provide an epoxy sealed surface, which is a good thing. In my experience it is exceptionally difficult to sand, especially in prep for top coat. I found that a dedicated surfacing primer over S3 was "softer" and therefore more easily sanded with 320 in prep for topcoat.

Rolling surfacing primer, spraying a guide coat on top of it, then block sanding with 320 is a great way to see if you have it all flat.

So close at this point. It all looks great! When you have a project that looks as good as yours, it doesn't seem right to skip any prep at the end. Good news is that there are task specific products for what your trying to do.

huckleberry
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

After letting her sit for 6 months finally got around to paint. Still a few details to finish up, but she’s almost there. Hardware, teak seadek mats, and registration coming up. Super fun build overall.
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huckleberry
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

Finally gave her the splash, super fun and handles great! Had a great time with the build overall.
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Dougster
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by Dougster »

Great looking boat. I love mine and know you'll love yours. Once I had another 200lb guy on board and it was fine---ran 9 mph with my little 5 horse tohatsu and minn kota troll motor on the nose. Have taken another rude boat's wake over the bow by myself and no problem. Water wash out immediately thru the stern.

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