SK14 Build in NC

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TomW1
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by TomW1 »

Fairing is to fair the hull. There will be low spots and high spots. Put one layer of fairing over the bottom, let dry, then speckle with spray paint or carbon dust, then sand with a long board. This will show your highs and lows. fill the lows for a smooth bottom. Long boards can be bought through the store or made. Sand with 60 grade paper you can smooth it after the final coat.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

pee wee
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by pee wee »

Tom is right about filling the lows up to the level of the high points to create a fair hull. It follows that the highest parts won't have any fairing compound on them at all- if you built them up, then you'd have to build up the lows even more, costing you in time, materials and weight. You'll want to give it a final coat or two of neat epoxy before finish goes on. You don't have to make everything perfect, even if you were able to- choose where to spend your time and energies. Where you need fairness for performance (last few feet of the hull bottom) you want a flat surface with a sharp trailing edge. Where you want it to be pretty and shiny, spend the time to make it nice. It's easy to get wrapped up in making the bottom of the hull perfect, but then you'll flip it upright and it ends up underwater. If you're going to put KiwiGrip or other non-skid on the walking surfaces, that will disguise some slight imperfections.
What level of finish you are willing and able to work to achieve (and maintain in the future) will decide things for you! As the builder you'll always know where the little goofs are, but they won't be noticeable to anybody that wants to get an invitation to go out on your boat.
Hank

huckleberry
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

Thank you both! That helps a lot.

For building up the sharp edges, is it alright to use the fairing compound? From what I’ve read it sounds like people use milled glass or something of the sort for that, but it’d be convenient if I could use the BBC fairing compound I already have since the kit only came with that and wood flour.

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VT_Jeff
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by VT_Jeff »

huckleberry wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 2:47 pm Thank you both! That helps a lot.

For building up the sharp edges, is it alright to use the fairing compound? From what I’ve read it sounds like people use milled glass or something of the sort for that, but it’d be convenient if I could use the BBC fairing compound I already have since the kit only came with that and wood flour.
It will work but they will be soft and dent easily. woodflour would be a better choice than fairing compound.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
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TomW1
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by TomW1 »

VT_Jeff wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 3:40 pm
huckleberry wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 2:47 pm Thank you both! That helps a lot.

For building up the sharp edges, is it alright to use the fairing compound? From what I’ve read it sounds like people use milled glass or something of the sort for that, but it’d be convenient if I could use the BBC fairing compound I already have since the kit only came with that and wood flour.
It will work but they will be soft and dent easily. woodflour would be a better choice than fairing compound.
Agree but you do not want a perfectly sharp edge or the paint won't stick. You need at least a 1/16 to 1/8" radius for the paint to stick to the edge. So make it sharp and then round.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

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VT_Jeff
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by VT_Jeff »

My .02: If you are applying glass to an edge, than a radius is required. If not, no radius is needed, the paint will stick fine.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie

huckleberry
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

Here’s photos of the second round of fairing, not sanded.
I ordered some sticky back rolls of sandpaper so I can make a long board. Will spray a guide coat on prior to sanding.

From Peewee’s advice about putting on a coat or two of neat epoxy prior to finish, I’m assuming I should give the neat coats a light sanding to rough up the surface before applying primer? I’ll be using S3 yacht primer.

When wiping down the surface clean prior to primer and also with paint, I know it’s important to get it extremely clean and all grease and oils removed from the surface. Is it better to use denatured alcohol or acetone? I’ve seen mentions of both but didn’t know if there’s a preference.

I also have graphite powder on the way. I’ve seen people comment that you don’t need primer where graphite epoxy coat will be and some people go ahead and put primer down. Since the hull surface is not very big I think it’d be easier to just prime the whole thing so I don’t have to worry about getting a clean primer line when getting ready to paint the sides. Is there some kind of a better bond you get by applying graphite mix without primer? Or does it not really make a difference other than time?
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pee wee
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by pee wee »

There is no need to prime under where the graphite/epoxy will go, however, a full coat of primer will give you a preview of what the surface will look like under paint. Flaws that aren't visible now will jump out at your eye. Cracker Larry worked outside and would rinse the dust off the hull with water from a hose. He noticed that when wet he could easily spot areas he needed to work on more to achieve the level of finish he wanted. The guide coat Tom mentioned, whether speckles of spray paint or dusted on graphite or other material, is also a method to reveal low spots.

One thing nice with a boat the size of the SK14 is it's easy to flip, so you can work on the bottom and sides, flip to do inside and decks, flip to paint, flip to finish . . . not required to do multiple flips, but it may simplify construction.
Hank

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VT_Jeff
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by VT_Jeff »

I primed and painted the sides before I did the bottom with epoxy graphite so that I was putting dark/black over white. I primed and painted a few inches over the waterline(upside down), and then taped the waterline on my painted surface. This avoided the need to tape the waterline twice.

One big benefit of expoxy graphite in my mind is that it means you dont need to paint. So I would def not prime the whole bottom.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie

huckleberry
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

I was going to use Awlgrip topcoat for painting the sides since they have a nice array of color choices. I’ve been reading on it more and the data sheet says not to use below the waterline. Since the paint will meet the graphite coating at the waterline is it safe to still use the awlgrip on the sides? The boat will be dry stored and will only get wet when in use. If not, suggestions on alternative paint to use?

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