SK14 Build in NC

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TomW1
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by TomW1 »

huckleberry wrote: Tue Oct 12, 2021 2:47 pm I was going to use Awlgrip topcoat for painting the sides since they have a nice array of color choices. I’ve been reading on it more and the data sheet says not to use below the waterline. Since the paint will meet the graphite coating at the waterline is it safe to still use the awlgrip on the sides? The boat will be dry stored and will only get wet when in use. If not, suggestions on alternative paint to use?
Awlgrip is fine, don't let them scare you as long as you pull the boat when you are done with it every day. Jeff may have more info for you since he sells it in the store, I
believe.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

Dan_Smullen
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by Dan_Smullen »

I’ve found denatured alcohol to be a great solvent Tobias for wiping down prior to spreading epoxy. I think acetone can be problematic for epoxy and paints, but suited for polyester.

Cleaning before paint I’ve used Dewaxer and Surface prep from another vendor but downside is that it’s more expensive than alcohol.

huckleberry
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

Still have lots to do on the hull, but decided to flip and work on the top.
Made up some blocking for the bow eye and drilled the holes and dry fit it along with the hatch framing. Should hopefully get the bow compartment sealed up soon.
First coat of fairing in the front half of the deck. Still have a little more glass to do at the transom.
Transferred the grab rail layout and over drilled the holes for the hanger bolts in the deck.
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BB Sig
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by BB Sig »

Nicely done! :D

TomW1
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by TomW1 »

Looking good. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

Dougster
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by Dougster »

Much neater than my work, but sure looks familiar. I'm about to take wife and SK14 to Caddo lake in Tx for some fun. Great little boat.

Dougster

huckleberry
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

Dougster wrote: Sat Oct 23, 2021 9:25 am Much neater than my work, but sure looks familiar. I'm about to take wife and SK14 to Caddo lake in Tx for some fun. Great little boat.

Dougster
I’ve studied your build in detail and know that not to be true. Nonetheless I appreciate it!

huckleberry
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

Some progress and question on fairing:

Gave the first round of deck fairing a sanding. Glued in the bow eye backer and made the cutout for the bow hatch. Filled the holes for the grab rail hanger bolts and put down a second coat of fairing compound on the horizontal parts of the deck and the transom.

I marked up two of the attached pictures showing areas that have one coat of fairing compound that has been sanded and another area showing the second coat of fairing not sanded. I feel like I might’ve gone a little heavy handed in some areas, definitely at the transom, but I was skittish about sanding down too much and getting into the glass edges.
I know it’s hard to envision the whole thing from pictures, but is there any glaring problems/pointers anyone see’s?

- Alex
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pee wee
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by pee wee »

The one thing I think I see from the photos is that you could do a better job of smoothing out the fairing compound after application. Any lumps and bumps require sanding off- that's extra work, uses more sandpaper, and wastes fairing material. The smoother you can apply, the better. It's possible you need to adjust the thickness of the compound, but I can't tell that from the pictures. Things generally look good, apply compound where you need to build things up, identify and either sand or fill around high areas.
Hank

Dougster
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Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by Dougster »

Lumps in fairing can be quickly leveled with a good scrape, saving sandpaper. I use one called linbide, works great.

Dougster

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