SK14 Build in NC

To help other builders, please list the boat you are building in the Thread Subject -- and to conserve space, please limit your posting to one thread per boat.

Please feel free to use the gallery to display multiple images of your progress.
Fuzz
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 8920
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
Location: Kasilof, Alaska

Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by Fuzz »

Your plan to fix things sounds good. But as much as I understand the desire to move on now is the time to fix all the bubbles. It might slow you down for a day but in the end it will be well worth it.

TomW1
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 5844
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2015 10:57 pm
Location: Bryson City, NC

Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by TomW1 »

Agree with Fuzz, don't go on till you fix your bubbles.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

pee wee
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 2276
Joined: Sun May 01, 2011 8:29 am
Location: Georgia

Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by pee wee »

Check your local drug store for syringes. Many uses for them, without the needle, of course. Veterinarians use them for dosing oral medications, etc.

I agree, best to deal with this now, even though it takes time. Cut corners elsewhere if you have to.
Hank

huckleberry
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2021 8:14 am
Location: North Carolina

Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

Sorry, didn’t mean to make it sound like I was going to skip over fixing the bubbles. Just that I was going to sand them down and patch instead of injecting them.
Last night I cut out and sanded all the bubbles that had any give in them, most were along the chines.
I should note that all bubbles are located where there are at least 2 layers of glass, 3 layers at the bow. Didn’t have any bubbles where there’s only one layer.

Pictures below. Going to do the patches tonight. Will pipe on the WF thickened epoxy and then layup the glass patches. Along the chines will probably just put a single layer of tape to catch as many spots as I can in one piece.

There’s more spots on the chine you can see in the picture that look like bubbles, but they didn’t have much or any give when poking them. Are those fine the way they are? There’s two layers glass along the entire chine.
C3C8D88F-5D8B-4814-A985-503795C3CEA8.jpeg
AD4DDFDE-BE72-435C-9F43-EBD06653932E.jpeg
998EB674-CCFF-4192-B4C9-FEEF61EABE58.jpeg
2EAEE7B3-9371-40B8-AFBC-513463FC5AA5.jpeg
27E9649C-CD9E-46D8-8796-35EBB04C4580.jpeg
EBEA881C-DE63-4E83-B276-E14F629DEF23.jpeg
C4D409F9-7F28-4571-87F9-28E2397D8D4E.jpeg
5AE53CEC-516A-4190-BFD4-146436E755F9.jpeg
2A80801E-EAB6-4AD0-B6DC-E793631C66DA.jpeg
EF8ED025-8200-45A1-91F2-6281D37D17D2.jpeg

Online
User avatar
cape man
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 8267
Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:02 pm
Location: Lithia, Florida

Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by cape man »

Patch them all. Nice deer!
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman

huckleberry
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2021 8:14 am
Location: North Carolina

Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

cape man wrote: Wed Oct 06, 2021 1:14 pm Patch them all. Nice deer!
10-4!
That’s a South Texas old man right there, aged him at 11.5yo! Got a “South Texas cull” and a pig with some mean cutters off the same ranch too.
3C9CB7B7-6367-444D-962D-A1D8EC9610EA.jpeg
B4E64A29-03A0-49EA-9216-4E42C0CEBFD5.jpeg
54778BF9-2E27-4E6B-A351-AC9803619A53.jpeg

huckleberry
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2021 8:14 am
Location: North Carolina

Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

Question on the skeg. Since a trailer is not in the plans right now and I’ll be hauling the boat in the back of my truck, I’m going to do two skegs instead of just one on the keel. Right now I’ve got them cut down to 6’ long x 1 1-3/4” wide x 3/4” tall. Tapered at the front over 6” going down to about 1/4”, will round them off towards the stern.

For location, how far off the keel should I space them and how far forward should I hold them off the stern? Transom is about 35” wide.

Reid
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 717
Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2016 12:34 pm
Location: Fort Pierce, FL

Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by Reid »

I would keep the skeg a good 16" from the transom. I would also leave the sides and back of the skeg sharp (90 degrees). This will allow the water to release better.
Another thought, if you are planning on putting your SK on a trailer eventually, maybe only attach one skeg. In the meantime you can put some temporary bunks (2'x4' boards) in your truck bed to keep the skeg from hitting. This might save you some work later on if you have to remove the two skegs and convert to one when you get a trailer.
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright

TomW1
Very Active Poster
Very Active Poster
Posts: 5844
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2015 10:57 pm
Location: Bryson City, NC

Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by TomW1 »

First your skegs are to wide, cut them down to 3/4" x 3/4" That is all you need. Other wise the boat will be skiing on the larger ones. Put them about 6" out from the keel, you want them to help in straight line steering and in in turning the boat, also a foot from the transom to eliminate any turbulence in front of the motor. For hauling the boat in your pick-up get some carpet for the bottom that will lean against the truck and fasten it to the truck.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

huckleberry
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 45
Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2021 8:14 am
Location: North Carolina

Re: SK14 Build in NC

Post by huckleberry »

Skegs glued on and first coat of fairing applied and sanded.
Applied second round of fairing a little thicker yesterday and will sand tonight. Will post pictures of the second round later.

By the end of fairing, should I expect the entire hull to be coated in fairing compound? I faired the entire thing and filled the weave but I guess I’m asking if I should be able to see any of the wood through the thinner areas? Or should it be built up enough by the end that the entire hull is consistent with the color deeper brown color of the fairing compound?
993DCD7A-6403-4063-BB5B-F3C1BBF72F64.jpeg
0C914E0B-4AF6-4FAC-8F78-6E0C9A32A05D.jpeg
206D6605-2488-41B4-9815-86C07E9C610D.jpeg
1DE8DEE2-B0DF-4EBA-8C93-54AB954F834A.jpeg
25D44155-0B50-47C7-915D-3BE7CE7C4A57.jpeg
4F218CA9-A48F-4F12-AFFA-BED50CA4A8E3.jpeg

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests