Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Just moved to North Carolina from Texas and pulled the trigger on the SK14 build I've been looking at for a while. Picked up my kit on Tuesday and got the sides and hull pieces glued together as well as the transom. Started stitching last night, progress photos below. I've been using penny nails as the spacers which seem to be working out alright. Plan to drop the framing and install the transom tonight and start spot welding.
So far the only spot I see that might have an issue with a gap in the pieces is the keel line towards the bow, its pretty tight right there. Hoping the transom install may relieve that a little bit.
Welcome to any constructive criticism! I plan on trying to take as many pictures as possible and update often as I can.

Also, is that gap between the hull pieces at the tip of the bow too much? Couldn't really think of a way to tighten it up any more than that.

Huckleberry,

Welcome! Your progress looks good. You can try and drill some extra stitch holes and add extra zip ties to try and close the bow gap a little. You may need to loosen some of the zip ties further back in order to create a little relief so the bow can come together. The bottom panels look pretty tight in the area 6"-12" back from the bow, maybe if you loosen that seam that will allow the bow tip to come together. Some times you need to play with the zip ties a little in order to get your desired result.

Keep up the good work!
-Reid

Reid wrote: ↑Thu Aug 19, 2021 9:22 am Huckleberry,

Welcome! Your progress looks good. You can try and drill some extra stitch holes and add extra zip ties to try and close the bow gap a little. You may need to loosen some of the zip ties further back in order to create a little relief so the bow can come together. The bottom panels look pretty tight in the area 6"-12" back from the bow, maybe if you loosen that seam that will allow the bow tip to come together. Some times you need to play with the zip ties a little in order to get your desired result.

Keep up the good work!
-Reid

Yeah that's definitely the tightest spot. The issue I was having was the two hull panels trying to overlap on each other at the keel line in that area when adjusting the bow. Ill try to loosen the ties in a few places and see what I get. Thanks!

I'd say you will be fine to fill that gap after it's stitched together. Why the gap is there? My guess is that the bottom ply is being stubborn about taking the full bend near the bow; if you check the overall length carefully you may find your hull is a little longer than the plans indicate. As has been stated many times here, fairness of the hull shape is what's most important, don't introduce any kinks or flats while trying to torture things to plan perfection.

I built the SK14 and struggled a bit there. Never got it perfect but in the end it didn't matter. That gap will fill easily enough with thickened epoxy. Just keep your gaps open with the spacers. I'd try to loosen the zip tie at the top of the bow panel and wedge in some more spacer to see if that would flair out the panels a bit and push them in at the bottom. I wouldn't go too far with the fiddle though 'cuz I agree with PeeWee with the probably good 'nuff judgement.

Dougster

Moving right along for sure! Looks good! Watch out for hard spots where the panels touch. They could be starved for glue if they are too tight. Advice is was given...

Where in NC are you?

Much appreciated, I’ve finished filleting and am currently working on sanding in preparation for glass. I know that’s the hard way of doing things, was just a little nervous to go all at once with wet on wet since this is my first build.

Im in Durham, but right on the Raleigh city limits.

Got everything filleted last week, followed by FG tape this week. It was definitely a learning experience and started out pretty rocky but eventually started getting the hang of it. I wasnt confident in my pace of work so I did not work wet on wet, but I fully intend to on the sole and hull now that I have a better idea of the process. The sanding was a pain but a 1/2" wide belt sander was a life saver for sanding the fillets.
Pickup up some SYP that I've ripped into 3/4" square sticks for the cleats and will rip some SYP 1x4x12' in half to use for rubrails/inwales. Plan to start installing cleats this afternoon and then the rub rails before foaming.
Grab rail showed up earlier this week (via BBC) and looks fantastic. Should have some Kennedy tie down hardware coming in tomorrow as well. Originally I wanted to make the grab rail removable but it falls partially on the cleats. I've been brainstorming some ideas to work around it but it sounds like a little more of an undertaking than its worth. If there are any tips or tricks anyone has used it would be much appreciated!

Also, found a used 2020 Mercury 8hp 4 stroke online for a fair price that I'm planning on picking up next weekend, which should be the last piece of the puzzle minus paint!

Been really enjoying build so far, the pooch was enjoying it a little too much and has since been banished from the garage after rolling around in saw dust and tracking it all over the house.

Really nice progress!!! Jeff

Looks good!

Some progress photos. Should have the last few cleats on today as well as getting the rubrails dry fitted.
Also picked up a motor. Hoping to spot a hot day this week to foam.

Sure looks familiar. Nice, clean looking build. You're gonna love her.

Dougster

Got rub rails dry fitted, hatch frame built and dry fit and cleats finally 100%. Got a little inpatient with the last few cleats that had bend in them and pulled the clamps before they were cured causing them to pop off and had to sand and redo them.

Not sure if I’m going to glue the rub rails in place first or just temporarily clamp them on before foaming. Any suggestions one way or the other?
My main factor for timing will be the weather and if I can glue the rubrails and give them significant time to cure before the hottest day of the week to foam.

At what point should I drill holes and put backing for the bow eye? After I fiberglass the hull?

Also, looks like the holes feet of my grab rail land directly on the cleats on either side of the stringers. I was planning on just over drilling holes into the sole/cleats and filling them with wood flour epoxy and then use #8 course thread SS screws (thanks to Dougsters past posts). This essentially does away with the need for my doubler if I’m not mistaken? Any options there would be helpful as well. It would give me some extra ply to work with for misc sole hardware backing and building up transom thickness for my outboard.

Update photos:

Nice progress!! Jeff

Looking good huckleberry. Where are you in NC I am up in the mountains.

Tom

TomW1 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 07, 2021 5:30 pm Looking good huckleberry. Where are you in NC I am up in the mountains.

Tom

I’m in Raleigh/Durham. Just moved up here about 3 months ago from Texas. I’m planning on heading up to the mountains as much as I can in the near future to do some fly fishing before it gets to cold for my liking. No real winter in South Central Texas!

Any recommendations for destinations over your way?

I am surrounded by trout streams. The upper Nantahala River and lower are both well known for there trout catch. The other is Deep Creek that runs from Bryon City into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Bryson City has been designated a trout sanctuary with about .5 miles of of trout waters. There are numerous guides that will take you into the back waters where you can catch wild brook, rainbow and brown brown trout. Swain County has been designated a Trout County of NC, 1 of 2. Here is a lot of info on Swain County trout fishing https://greatsmokiesfishing.com/fishing-guides.html Hope this helps.

Tom

TomW1 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 07, 2021 6:37 pm I am surrounded by trout streams. The upper Nantahala River and lower are both well known for there trout catch. The other is Deep Creek that runs from Bryon City into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Bryson City has been designated a trout sanctuary with about .5 miles of of trout waters. There are numerous guides that will take you into the back waters where you can catch wild brook, rainbow and brown brown trout. Swain County has been designated a Trout County of NC, 1 of 2. Here is a lot of info on Swain County trout fishing https://greatsmokiesfishing.com/fishing-guides.html Hope this helps.

Tom

This is fantastic, thanks!

Started the foam this past weekend. Since I shortened the casting deck, I’m using more foam for this additional compartments towards the bow.

I used the step by step foam instructions Fred in Wisconsin posted in the “Expanding Foam Calculations” thread.
Poured 6oz of each parts A and B in styrofoam cups, then mixed for a 12oz pour.
I got about 24 total 12oz pours from the 2lb kit. I set everything in the sun for a while before I started. Used a temp scanner and that showed the surface temp of all material, tools and boat to be around 90-95 degrees.
In the photos, going from stern to bow, first compartment got 9 pours, all other compartments got 5 pours.

Just off the jump, this feels like it took more than it should have. I want to get the compartments full so the deck is solid so I’ve already ordered another 2lb kit. I’m a little worried about still not having enough though.
Maybe I should try mixing in larger batches? From what I’ve read this is riskier but if done properly I could get better expansion?

I think I did everything right but having never done this before maybe I’m missing a glaring issue?

Also started working on a grab rail caddy built out of off-brand starboard. Never worked with this material so it’s kinda of a trial. Backup plan is to laminate some scrap 1/4” sande ply I have laying around.

Looks good wait a few days and cut down any bubbles above the deck. That is more than enough foam for an SK14 to keep it unsinkable. If you want to keep it upright put foam under the upper decks.

Tom

I can't comment on foam but here's a photo tip: edit your photos in your phone before you post them, just crop it a little bit, and it will usually post with the correct orientation. Someone gave me that tip and it's been working for me ever since, don't know why.

You can also "fix it" by using either of the gallery options provided by BBC. a bit more work for the poster but a lot of functionality added.

I know ... I sound like a broken record.

Here’s a test upload/photo of my grab rail caddy. Tried cropping it on my iPhone.

Looks great except I don't see any cup-holders!

They’ll be on the side of the cooler!
As I’m sure you know, at this stage I seem to be getting in my own way more than anything. Spent more time than I’d like to admit just thinking about how I want to set everything up and customize it.

huckleberry wrote: ↑Wed Sep 15, 2021 11:56 am They’ll be on the side of the cooler!
As I’m sure you know, at this stage I seem to be getting in my own way more than anything. Spent more time than I’d like to admit just thinking about how I want to set everything up and customize it.

Oh yeah! Goes from "Gee, it's sure nice to have something to keep my mind occupied" to "PLEASE GET OUT OF MY HEAD AND LET ME SLEEP!" pretty quickly.

Paralysis by analysis, very common side-effect of the BBV(boat builder virus).

I do really like your post: one thing my boat lacks is any kind of handy tool storage, it's something I'm working on.

No joke! I definitely have the BBV.

I went round and round on how I wanted to do some sort of storage/catch all built off the grab rail. Boat Outfitters makes a really awesome looking “SUP Leaning Post Gear Caddy” that’s designed for the BOTE tackle rac. I contemplated ordering one and modifying it to my grab rail, but there weren’t any dimensions or cut sheets online and I didn’t feel like possibly burning $120 if it didn’t work out. After ordering some starboard I abandoned the idea of trying to replicate it on my own and ended up with the picture above. It was cheap and easy to make and will do for now. Fish finder will mount to the shelf at the top. Might build some sort of padded back rest on the other side to mount on the same p clamps for whoever may be sitting on the cooler.

Really well done!! Jeff

Rubrails glued on and rough sanded. Got the second 2lb kit of foam done today. There’s a few low spots but nothing too bad.
I didn’t have enough to the two small triangular sections closest to the bow.

Should I order another 1lb kit and foam these as well? Or could I call it good enough?

Maybe fill them with pool noodles? Thinking maybe “foam-support” for the sole isn’t too critical here since they’re the smallest sections with the least distance between cleats?

How thick is the sole? If 4mm I would install a doubler. If 6mm, your probably good.

Looking good and I like the console idea!

You have plenty of foam those two small compartment will be air tight and provide there own buoyancy without any foam. Besides foam adds weight you don't need in the bow. It is expensive and save your money for some bling elsewhere.

Tom

Sole is 6mm.
Thinking I’ll just throw the excess cutoffs from the other sections in there.

I’ve already put (2) 2lb foam kits in the thing, double what’s included in the BOM, which is why I’m hesitant to add more.

Random question for bedding hardware…

When installing the hanger bolts for my removable grab rail (which I installed extra backing for) does this process sound correct?
1. Overdrill holes
2. Fill with wood flour thickened epoxy, let it cure
3. Drill pilot hole
4. Coat hanger bolt threads with 5200 or similar and screw in place

Would this process work surface mounting cleats to the rub rail and other miscellaneous accessories (transducer bracket, push pole holder, anchor pin bracket, etc…)? Or for smaller items could steps 1 and 2 be bypassed and just bed ss screws in 5200?

huckleberry wrote: ↑Tue Sep 21, 2021 9:39 am Random question for bedding hardware…

When installing the hanger bolts for my removable grab rail (which I installed extra backing for) does this process sound correct?
1. Overdrill holes
2. Fill with wood flour thickened epoxy, let it cure
3. Drill pilot hole
4. Coat hanger bolt threads with 5200 or similar and screw in place

Would this process work surface mounting cleats to the rub rail and other miscellaneous accessories (transducer bracket, push pole holder, anchor pin bracket, etc…)? Or for smaller items could steps 1 and 2 be bypassed and just bed ss screws in 5200?

I sleep better knowing all my holes are over-drilled and filled, but I know some marine professionals that just go the 5200 route when installing stuff on the transom. My Honda outboard manual says to just use silicone in the bolt holes when mounting the motor, which seems like a head-shaker to me, but who am I to question industry leaders? The motor mounts are above the waterline, maybe that plays a role.

Remember guys that manuals and boat yard professionals are used to dealing with all glass boats. We have Meranti or Okume between the glass we have to protect, that is why we over drill and fill any hole, where ever it may be.

Regards, Tom

Got the sole glued down. Made a little paracord wrap for the grab rail also.
Don’t have a picture, but I’ve applied 3 coats of neat epoxy to the sole.
Planning to do the fillets tonight but I’m contemplating if I should fiberglass the sole and tape the joints from the sole to the hull.
Thoughts on wether I should spend the time and material on this?
I do plan on covering most of the deck with a faux teak SeaDek type mat. Maybe that will provide enough protection for the sole without FG?

Also, if I don’t FG the sole, should I still fair the entire thing?

huckleberry wrote: ↑Mon Sep 27, 2021 8:43 am Don’t have a picture, but I’ve applied 3 coats of neat epoxy to the sole.
Planning to do the fillets tonight but I’m contemplating if I should fiberglass the sole and tape the joints from the sole to the hull.
Thoughts on wether I should spend the time and material on this?
I do plan on covering most of the deck with a faux teak SeaDek type mat. Maybe that will provide enough protection for the sole without FG?

I'd tape the joint between the sole and the hull (I'm surprised it isn't in the lamination schedule), I'd also tape the joints between sole panels. Wherever you will have SeaDek won't need any more attention than that. Where the sole is exposed- if it's going to see some abuse I'd throw some glass on there, too. I wouldn't fair anything that won't show.

pee wee wrote: ↑Mon Sep 27, 2021 9:31 am

huckleberry wrote: ↑Mon Sep 27, 2021 8:43 am Don’t have a picture, but I’ve applied 3 coats of neat epoxy to the sole.
Planning to do the fillets tonight but I’m contemplating if I should fiberglass the sole and tape the joints from the sole to the hull.
Thoughts on wether I should spend the time and material on this?
I do plan on covering most of the deck with a faux teak SeaDek type mat. Maybe that will provide enough protection for the sole without FG?

I'd tape the joint between the sole and the hull (I'm surprised it isn't in the lamination schedule), I'd also tape the joints between sole panels. Wherever you will have SeaDek won't need any more attention than that. Where the sole is exposed- if it's going to see some abuse I'd throw some glass on there, too. I wouldn't fair anything that won't show.

10-4, thanks! The joint between the sole and hull is noted in the “heavy duty” version but says not “required”. I just didn’t know if anyone had an experience where they’d wished they followed the heavy duty version.

I agree tape all the joints to prevent water intrusion below deck. Tom

FG taped the sole to the hull sides. Going to do some touch up shaping on the rub rails and transom and then give her the flip and start on the hull.

Couple questions…
At what point should I install the bow eye? After priming of the hull? after fairing before priming? Or even before that?
Also, I was planning on just priming the inside of the bow compartment to make it look a little nicer (without fairing). Does that sound normal?

Put the bow eye after totally painting the boat, that way you won't have to worry about taping it and the wood underneath will be full protected.

As for the bow compartment, what are you planning to stow in there? If wet anchor line you will need to paint it with your exterior paint and allow for a drainage hole. I would still paint it with your deck paint, Primer is not that tough or long long lasting.

Tom

TomW1 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 29, 2021 2:35 pm Put the bow eye after totally painting the boat, that wa won't have to worry about taping it.

As for the bow compartment, what are you planning to stow in there? If wet anchor line you will need to paint it with your exterior paint and allow for a drainage hole. I would still paint it with your deck paint, Primer is not that tough or long long lasting.

Tom

So I should wait to install casting/upper deck sole, finish paint the bottom then turn it back over to secure the bow eye? Only ask cause then I’ll have to wait to fair anything on the top side or at least the casting deck cause I’m not sure I’ll be able to easily access the bow eye backing through the hatch in the casting deck once it’s installed.

For the bow compartment, yes an anchor line will likely be in there at some point. Since I went with the extended sole version the compartment is very small and I wasn’t planning on putting in a drainage hole, just sponging it out when needed (something I saw from either Seaslug or Dougster I believe).
Painting it is isn’t an issue other than I’m itching to get the deck on the bow compartment so I can cutout my hatch opening and fair the top. Also don’t have my paint yet. Guess I’ll have to just wait and focus on the bottom.

Side note: I’m using System Three Yacht primer and plan to go with Awlgrip Polyester urethane top coat for paint.

General thought... add access to the back of the bow eye as they always seem to come loose. It may not happen for a couple of years, but at some point, you will go to snap the strap on and it will wiggle. Better to have access than to cut holes in the deck later.

Jaysen wrote: ↑Wed Sep 29, 2021 2:54 pm General thought... add access to the back of the bow eye as they always seem to come loose. It may not happen for a couple of years, but at some point, you will go to snap the strap on and it will wiggle. Better to have access than to cut holes in the deck later.

That’s good to know, thanks!
I will definitely have access (picture of hatch from earlier in the build below). I just figured it would be easier to do the initial install of the eye before I put the deck on and have to work through the hatch.

If you have the access, you will be much happier installing the bow eye as one of your last steps. That helps you get a nice finish with a lot less effort. It allows you you seal the eye perfectly to the paint surface. Do all the drilling and backer block work now, even test fit the eye, just pull it before you paint.

Jaysen wrote: ↑Wed Sep 29, 2021 3:12 pm If you have the access, you will be much happier installing the bow eye as one of your last steps. That helps you get a nice finish with a lot less effort. It allows you you seal the eye perfectly to the paint surface. Do all the drilling and backer block work now, even test fit the eye, just pull it before you paint.

Perfect, thanks to you both!
Last thing on the eye.. I bought one of the bow eyes from BBC. How much should I over drill for it? 1/4”?
Any tricks for cleanly filling that deep of a hole with wood flour epoxy? My guess would be piping it out of a bag and cleaning up the excess spill out quickly after inserting the eye?

upsizing by 1/4 is good.

I think you have a bit of a gap in the idea of over drill, fill, and drill.
1. Drill the oversized hole.
2. Fill hole with thickened epoxy.
3. Wait for cure (hard enough to drill but does not need to be full).
4. Drill properly sized hole.

You don't want to put the eye in the epoxy. You are using epoxy to create a 100% water-tight collar in the holes for the bow eye.

#2 can be tricky. Here's how I've been doing it.
1. tape over the side of the hole that isn't going to be easily seen. In your case the inside.
2. Make epoxy that is heavy with fumed silica or other structural fill. I would avoid wood flour as there is a possibility it could allow some water into the ply (it is a very small possibility and unlikely, but why risk it). DO NOT USE FAIRING ADDITIVES.
3. pipe the epoxy into the holes filling from the bottom and slowly pulling the piping bag out of the hole.
4. Carefully smooth the fill to the surface. do not overwork it.
5. Once cured you should find a little dent in the middle of the hole.
6. When you actually put the bow eye in, use some 4200 to make sure the holes are completely sealed.

Jaysen wrote: ↑Wed Sep 29, 2021 3:33 pm upsizing by 1/4 is good.

I think you have a bit of a gap in the idea of over drill, fill, and drill.
1. Drill the oversized hole.
2. Fill hole with thickened epoxy.
3. Wait for cure (hard enough to drill but does not need to be full).
4. Drill properly sized hole.

You don't want to put the eye in the epoxy. You are using epoxy to create a 100% water-tight collar in the holes for the bow eye.

#2 can be tricky. Here's how I've been doing it.
1. tape over the side of the hole that isn't going to be easily seen. In your case the inside.
2. Make epoxy that is heavy with fumed silica or other structural fill. I would avoid wood flour as there is a possibility it could allow some water into the ply (it is a very small possibility and unlikely, but why risk it). DO NOT USE FAIRING ADDITIVES.
3. pipe the epoxy into the holes filling from the bottom and slowly pulling the piping bag out of the hole.
4. Carefully smooth the fill to the surface. do not overwork it.
5. Once cured you should find a little dent in the middle of the hole.
6. When you actually put the bow eye in, use some 4200 to make sure the holes are completely sealed.

That’s exactly what I needed, sorry for the elementary questions. New world for me and these little details are where I seem to get most lost.
Thanks so much!

Here's one more thought on overdrilling/re-drilling.

Use an X to mark your hole center and extend the lines a fair bit before drilling. Drill and fill as Jaysen pointed out. Once cured, Re-connect your X lines to re-establish the original center. Punch it with a nail, then start with small drill bits, work your way up to the final size so you stay in the center of your fill. Nothing worse than wandering into your wood while re-drilling, ask me how I know!

Totally up to you whether to fair inside the compartment or not. I chose to do enough fairing to eliminate sharp edges and rough surfaces, then coated with white pigmented epoxy. That makes an easy to clean surface that won't snag at anchor lines.

Again your call, but wet anchor line gets slimy if it can't dry out; a simple drain hole is . . . simple. Maybe you will store the boat in a way that allows the hatch to stand open?

I also did some minimal fairing, then coated with tinted epoxy. Didn't do a drain hole but keep thinking I need to. In my use I have only gotten water in twice: once a windy day with light chop and again when rude boater graced me with a wake across the bow. No problem sponging it out but stuff in there could get wet. I keep a little 10AH lithium ion battery from Bass Pro in there to power my Garmin sonar, 'cuz running the sonar off the main trolling motor battery caused interference.

Dougster

Dougster wrote: ↑Thu Sep 30, 2021 11:45 am I also did some minimal fairing, then coated with tinted epoxy. Didn't do a drain hole but keep thinking I need to. In my use I have only gotten water in twice: once a windy day with light chop and again when rude boater graced me with a wake across the bow. No problem sponging it out but stuff in there could get wet. I keep a little 10AH lithium ion battery from Bass Pro in there to power my Garmin sonar, 'cuz running the sonar off the main trolling motor battery caused interference.

Dougster

How would you do a drain hole since the bottom of the compartment is lower than the sole? If I were to put a hole or plug in the stringer forming the compartment at sole level (draining on to the deck), it would only drain water above 4 or 5” in the compartment.

Started fiberglassing then hull this past weekend. First I put one layer of tape along the chines and keel, then two large sheet of glass. Each one overlaps the keel and extends down to the bottom of the rubrails, which gives me 3 total layers at the keel and two layers at the chines.
Before I taped, I filleted the keel and chine joints and worked wet on wet with the tape.
After doing to full glass sheets, I noticed some bubbles along the break at the chines and on the keel towards the bow where it’s more of a V.
I only have one picture right now but will post more tonight.
I will do the screwdriver test tonight as well and see if the bubbles have any give or if they’re solid.

Based off this picture alone, does it look like I’d be able to inject epoxy? Or will I need to possibly sand it down and patch with new glass?
If I do need to patch, would it be a good idea to re-fillet that spot, let it cure and then sand it to shape before doing the FG patch?

pee wee wrote: ↑Thu Sep 30, 2021 10:11 am Totally up to you whether to fair inside the compartment or not. I chose to do enough fairing to eliminate sharp edges and rough surfaces, then coated with white pigmented epoxy. That makes an easy to clean surface that won't snag at anchor lines.

Again your call, but wet anchor line gets slimy if it can't dry out; a simple drain hole is . . . simple. Maybe you will store the boat in a way that allows the hatch to stand open?

I’m not sure a drain hole is applicable for my scenario, main issue listed above in response to Dougster.
Do you think fairing and then coating with neat epoxy is enough protection for the compartment being damp or wet for a weekend during use? I’m not too worried about looks inside the compartment.
I will definitely be able to store with the hatch open. The boat will be stored in the garage and will only be exposed to the elements when in use.

I don't have the plans for the SK14, so this is worth what you paid for it. The plans I've seen show a bottom panel in the anchor locker that slopes to the bow of the boat, and the drain would go through the hull. The assumption is that it would exit above the waterline! As is standard practice, you'd overdrill and fill with epoxy and fillers, then redrill for the drain. For aesthetics you can put a clamshell cover over the hole, or leave it. Or don't drain the compartment.

As for the surfaces in the compartment, I'd do at least two neat coats of epoxy either with or without fairing. At a minimum, I'd knock down the edges of the fiberglass before doing that. All wood on your boat should get at least two coats of epoxy to seal it, no difference here. Since it's got a hatch that stays closed, it will be protected from sunlight/UV that would degrade epoxy.

Oops I wasn't very clear. My forward compartment is divided into two parts. The aft compartment's bottom is flush with the sole, so can drain there. Small forward compartment could'nt drain but only has small fairly welled sealed access hatch to get to bolts securing the trolling motor. No water in there to date.

Dougster

About the glass, looks like those bubbles need to be cut out and fixed. Fill the hole with thickened epoxy and put a layer of glass over the spot.

100% agree with Fuzz. I allowed bubbles on the bottom as big as 3mm (1/8th") no more. Mine was a planing hull but still.

I'd try drilling two holes first and injecting epoxy if you can, otherwise grind and fill. If there's other layers of tape under it, or only a small part of the chine/keel then it should be ok. If you feel like the strength has been compromised at that point, then fill with a microballoon/silica mix, fill the weave everywhere else, sand until smooth, then retape. If the surface you are taping on is less than 100% smooth laying some epoxy down under slightly thickened helps avoid bubbles under. Neat epoxy tends to run out. You can do far far worse to a boat than adding additional glass on the keel.

I had far far worse than that when first glassing my C17. Ended up stripping the entire hull.

Thanks all!
I was looking at it a little closer last night and tried poking some holes in preparation to inject. I don’t think the spots are big enough to effectively inject, mainly because don’t have a small enough syringe at the moment to inject without having to drill at least a 1/4” hole.
I don’t have any microballoon or silica mix either and would like to try to get this knocked out tonight so I can start fairing.
Last night I cut out of the bigger bubbles towards the stern with a razor and sanded down the edges.

Let me know if I’m totally off base but from what y’all have said and what I’ve read, after all areas are sanded down I plan to put down some epoxy thickened with wood flour and lay over a few patch layers of glass (# of layers to match what was originally installed) while thickened epoxy is still wet, with the top layer being larger and overlapping the good glass around. Then brush on some neat epoxy on top.
The few spots along the keel are about the size of a half dollar or smaller. The spots along the chines are only as wide as the fillet (about 1/4”) and vary from 1” to about 6” long.
The only spots I’m talking about are ones that have any give in them when pressed with a screwdriver.

Your plan to fix things sounds good. But as much as I understand the desire to move on now is the time to fix all the bubbles. It might slow you down for a day but in the end it will be well worth it.

Agree with Fuzz, don't go on till you fix your bubbles.

Tom

Check your local drug store for syringes. Many uses for them, without the needle, of course. Veterinarians use them for dosing oral medications, etc.

I agree, best to deal with this now, even though it takes time. Cut corners elsewhere if you have to.

Sorry, didn’t mean to make it sound like I was going to skip over fixing the bubbles. Just that I was going to sand them down and patch instead of injecting them.
Last night I cut out and sanded all the bubbles that had any give in them, most were along the chines.
I should note that all bubbles are located where there are at least 2 layers of glass, 3 layers at the bow. Didn’t have any bubbles where there’s only one layer.

Pictures below. Going to do the patches tonight. Will pipe on the WF thickened epoxy and then layup the glass patches. Along the chines will probably just put a single layer of tape to catch as many spots as I can in one piece.

There’s more spots on the chine you can see in the picture that look like bubbles, but they didn’t have much or any give when poking them. Are those fine the way they are? There’s two layers glass along the entire chine.

Patch them all. Nice deer!

cape man wrote: ↑Wed Oct 06, 2021 1:14 pm Patch them all. Nice deer!

10-4!
That’s a South Texas old man right there, aged him at 11.5yo! Got a “South Texas cull” and a pig with some mean cutters off the same ranch too.

Question on the skeg. Since a trailer is not in the plans right now and I’ll be hauling the boat in the back of my truck, I’m going to do two skegs instead of just one on the keel. Right now I’ve got them cut down to 6’ long x 1 1-3/4” wide x 3/4” tall. Tapered at the front over 6” going down to about 1/4”, will round them off towards the stern.

For location, how far off the keel should I space them and how far forward should I hold them off the stern? Transom is about 35” wide.

I would keep the skeg a good 16" from the transom. I would also leave the sides and back of the skeg sharp (90 degrees). This will allow the water to release better.
Another thought, if you are planning on putting your SK on a trailer eventually, maybe only attach one skeg. In the meantime you can put some temporary bunks (2'x4' boards) in your truck bed to keep the skeg from hitting. This might save you some work later on if you have to remove the two skegs and convert to one when you get a trailer.
-Reid

First your skegs are to wide, cut them down to 3/4" x 3/4" That is all you need. Other wise the boat will be skiing on the larger ones. Put them about 6" out from the keel, you want them to help in straight line steering and in in turning the boat, also a foot from the transom to eliminate any turbulence in front of the motor. For hauling the boat in your pick-up get some carpet for the bottom that will lean against the truck and fasten it to the truck.

Tom

Skegs glued on and first coat of fairing applied and sanded.
Applied second round of fairing a little thicker yesterday and will sand tonight. Will post pictures of the second round later.

By the end of fairing, should I expect the entire hull to be coated in fairing compound? I faired the entire thing and filled the weave but I guess I’m asking if I should be able to see any of the wood through the thinner areas? Or should it be built up enough by the end that the entire hull is consistent with the color deeper brown color of the fairing compound?

Fairing is to fair the hull. There will be low spots and high spots. Put one layer of fairing over the bottom, let dry, then speckle with spray paint or carbon dust, then sand with a long board. This will show your highs and lows. fill the lows for a smooth bottom. Long boards can be bought through the store or made. Sand with 60 grade paper you can smooth it after the final coat.

Tom

Tom is right about filling the lows up to the level of the high points to create a fair hull. It follows that the highest parts won't have any fairing compound on them at all- if you built them up, then you'd have to build up the lows even more, costing you in time, materials and weight. You'll want to give it a final coat or two of neat epoxy before finish goes on. You don't have to make everything perfect, even if you were able to- choose where to spend your time and energies. Where you need fairness for performance (last few feet of the hull bottom) you want a flat surface with a sharp trailing edge. Where you want it to be pretty and shiny, spend the time to make it nice. It's easy to get wrapped up in making the bottom of the hull perfect, but then you'll flip it upright and it ends up underwater. If you're going to put KiwiGrip or other non-skid on the walking surfaces, that will disguise some slight imperfections.
What level of finish you are willing and able to work to achieve (and maintain in the future) will decide things for you! As the builder you'll always know where the little goofs are, but they won't be noticeable to anybody that wants to get an invitation to go out on your boat.

Thank you both! That helps a lot.

For building up the sharp edges, is it alright to use the fairing compound? From what I’ve read it sounds like people use milled glass or something of the sort for that, but it’d be convenient if I could use the BBC fairing compound I already have since the kit only came with that and wood flour.

huckleberry wrote: ↑Mon Oct 11, 2021 2:47 pm Thank you both! That helps a lot.

For building up the sharp edges, is it alright to use the fairing compound? From what I’ve read it sounds like people use milled glass or something of the sort for that, but it’d be convenient if I could use the BBC fairing compound I already have since the kit only came with that and wood flour.

It will work but they will be soft and dent easily. woodflour would be a better choice than fairing compound.

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Oct 11, 2021 3:40 pm

huckleberry wrote: ↑Mon Oct 11, 2021 2:47 pm Thank you both! That helps a lot.

For building up the sharp edges, is it alright to use the fairing compound? From what I’ve read it sounds like people use milled glass or something of the sort for that, but it’d be convenient if I could use the BBC fairing compound I already have since the kit only came with that and wood flour.

It will work but they will be soft and dent easily. woodflour would be a better choice than fairing compound.

Agree but you do not want a perfectly sharp edge or the paint won't stick. You need at least a 1/16 to 1/8" radius for the paint to stick to the edge. So make it sharp and then round.

Tom

My .02: If you are applying glass to an edge, than a radius is required. If not, no radius is needed, the paint will stick fine.

Here’s photos of the second round of fairing, not sanded.
I ordered some sticky back rolls of sandpaper so I can make a long board. Will spray a guide coat on prior to sanding.

From Peewee’s advice about putting on a coat or two of neat epoxy prior to finish, I’m assuming I should give the neat coats a light sanding to rough up the surface before applying primer? I’ll be using S3 yacht primer.

When wiping down the surface clean prior to primer and also with paint, I know it’s important to get it extremely clean and all grease and oils removed from the surface. Is it better to use denatured alcohol or acetone? I’ve seen mentions of both but didn’t know if there’s a preference.

I also have graphite powder on the way. I’ve seen people comment that you don’t need primer where graphite epoxy coat will be and some people go ahead and put primer down. Since the hull surface is not very big I think it’d be easier to just prime the whole thing so I don’t have to worry about getting a clean primer line when getting ready to paint the sides. Is there some kind of a better bond you get by applying graphite mix without primer? Or does it not really make a difference other than time?

There is no need to prime under where the graphite/epoxy will go, however, a full coat of primer will give you a preview of what the surface will look like under paint. Flaws that aren't visible now will jump out at your eye. Cracker Larry worked outside and would rinse the dust off the hull with water from a hose. He noticed that when wet he could easily spot areas he needed to work on more to achieve the level of finish he wanted. The guide coat Tom mentioned, whether speckles of spray paint or dusted on graphite or other material, is also a method to reveal low spots.

One thing nice with a boat the size of the SK14 is it's easy to flip, so you can work on the bottom and sides, flip to do inside and decks, flip to paint, flip to finish . . . not required to do multiple flips, but it may simplify construction.

I primed and painted the sides before I did the bottom with epoxy graphite so that I was putting dark/black over white. I primed and painted a few inches over the waterline(upside down), and then taped the waterline on my painted surface. This avoided the need to tape the waterline twice.

One big benefit of expoxy graphite in my mind is that it means you dont need to paint. So I would def not prime the whole bottom.

I was going to use Awlgrip topcoat for painting the sides since they have a nice array of color choices. I’ve been reading on it more and the data sheet says not to use below the waterline. Since the paint will meet the graphite coating at the waterline is it safe to still use the awlgrip on the sides? The boat will be dry stored and will only get wet when in use. If not, suggestions on alternative paint to use?

huckleberry wrote: ↑Tue Oct 12, 2021 2:47 pm I was going to use Awlgrip topcoat for painting the sides since they have a nice array of color choices. I’ve been reading on it more and the data sheet says not to use below the waterline. Since the paint will meet the graphite coating at the waterline is it safe to still use the awlgrip on the sides? The boat will be dry stored and will only get wet when in use. If not, suggestions on alternative paint to use?

Awlgrip is fine, don't let them scare you as long as you pull the boat when you are done with it every day. Jeff may have more info for you since he sells it in the store, I
believe.

Tom

I’ve found denatured alcohol to be a great solvent Tobias for wiping down prior to spreading epoxy. I think acetone can be problematic for epoxy and paints, but suited for polyester.

Cleaning before paint I’ve used Dewaxer and Surface prep from another vendor but downside is that it’s more expensive than alcohol.

Still have lots to do on the hull, but decided to flip and work on the top.
Made up some blocking for the bow eye and drilled the holes and dry fit it along with the hatch framing. Should hopefully get the bow compartment sealed up soon.
First coat of fairing in the front half of the deck. Still have a little more glass to do at the transom.
Transferred the grab rail layout and over drilled the holes for the hanger bolts in the deck.

Nicely done!

Looking good. Tom

Much neater than my work, but sure looks familiar. I'm about to take wife and SK14 to Caddo lake in Tx for some fun. Great little boat.

Dougster

Dougster wrote: ↑Sat Oct 23, 2021 9:25 am Much neater than my work, but sure looks familiar. I'm about to take wife and SK14 to Caddo lake in Tx for some fun. Great little boat.

Dougster

I’ve studied your build in detail and know that not to be true. Nonetheless I appreciate it!

Some progress and question on fairing:

Gave the first round of deck fairing a sanding. Glued in the bow eye backer and made the cutout for the bow hatch. Filled the holes for the grab rail hanger bolts and put down a second coat of fairing compound on the horizontal parts of the deck and the transom.

I marked up two of the attached pictures showing areas that have one coat of fairing compound that has been sanded and another area showing the second coat of fairing not sanded. I feel like I might’ve gone a little heavy handed in some areas, definitely at the transom, but I was skittish about sanding down too much and getting into the glass edges.
I know it’s hard to envision the whole thing from pictures, but is there any glaring problems/pointers anyone see’s?

- Alex

The one thing I think I see from the photos is that you could do a better job of smoothing out the fairing compound after application. Any lumps and bumps require sanding off- that's extra work, uses more sandpaper, and wastes fairing material. The smoother you can apply, the better. It's possible you need to adjust the thickness of the compound, but I can't tell that from the pictures. Things generally look good, apply compound where you need to build things up, identify and either sand or fill around high areas.

Lumps in fairing can be quickly leveled with a good scrape, saving sandpaper. I use one called linbide, works great.

Dougster

I’ve read that the first coat of fairing should be thin to fill the weave and the subsequent 2nd and 3rd coats thicker than the last.
For my deck situation where it’s only tape at the fillets and the entire deck isn’t glassed, how thick, more or less, should the compound be on the glass when finished?
From what I understand, the area I need to “build up” is at the edge of the tape, blending it to the sole. I would assume I would not want any spots where I can still see the tape, even though it’s smooth to the touch?

Also, I’ve knocked down the high spots with 60-80 grit paper on the first pass. What grit do y’all usually progress down to prior to priming? I know it depends on the level of finish you’re trying to achieve, just curious on what’s common for you experienced guys.

I used more 40 grit than anything fairing the bottom of my project. Once level, I sanded to 80, then rolled high build primer, and sanded that to 120 grit. Sprayed surfacing primer, sanded with a guide coat to 320, before spraying topcoat.

I think some version of this will be most efficient. I wasted a lot of time, energy and material sanding fairing compound and primer to 220 and 320 grit.

I now envision the fairing process as going from heavy layers, thickened epoxy, to lighter layers, pre mixed fairing compounds------> progressively lighter layers of paint.

High build----------> surfacing primer-----------> top coat. Each layer gets lighter and thinner.

Glass work and and all is looking great. It should start to sparkle soon!

I do most everything with 80 grit before primer. Then sand primer with 120 or 150 before paint. I think seeing the tape is ok if it's smooth, but if not you can always sand more after the first coat of primer. Primer tells a story. For me it has usually been "you need to fair a little more"

Dougster

Another round of fairing and sanding done. Not sure if it’s my last, but I’m hoping so.
Got the hanger bolts installed, bedded in 4000. One leg of my grab rail was shorter than the rest by 1/4”, so I made a cutout that I will glue under the foot to level it.

One more question on the fairing… hopefully you can see in my pictures, but I have some shallow low spots after sanding, especially in the corners. Everything seems smooth to the touch. In y’all’s experience, do you think the primer is sufficient to fill these spots? Or should I do another round of touch up fairing?

I’ll be using system 3 high build primer.
Also, a few folks have commented that the fairing compound will need a coat of neat epoxy prior to priming. Is that still the case if I’m using the S3 primer? I feel like in some of the builds I’ve seen, there didn’t look to be a near coat prior to primer.

If I do need the neat coat, should I sand the neat epoxy to rough it up before priming?

The primer will not fill the low apots, use your fairing compound to fill them. As far as coating the fairing compound you don't need to do it that is what the primer is for.

Tom

huckleberry wrote: ↑Mon Nov 01, 2021 9:54 am One more question on the fairing… hopefully you can see in my pictures, but I have some shallow low spots after sanding, especially in the corners. Everything seems smooth to the touch. In y’all’s experience, do you think the primer is sufficient to fill these spots? Or should I do another round of touch up fairing?

I’ll be using system 3 high build primer.
Also, a few folks have commented that the fairing compound will need a coat of neat epoxy prior to priming. Is that still the case if I’m using the S3 primer? I feel like in some of the builds I’ve seen, there didn’t look to be a near coat prior to primer.

If I do need the neat coat, should I sand the neat epoxy to rough it up before priming?

Really nice looking work!

No experience with S3.

Neat-coating isn't necessary but it is a good/easy way to fill pinholes. I used a wide metal knife and when done, there was very very little epoxy left on, it was just filling whatever didn't get scraped off with the knife. And I would definitely take the shine off it before painting.

If I were you, I would neat-coat, scuff, prime it as-is, and then decide what needs more attention, and do a final round of fairing. It's gonna look a lot different once it's all one color, trouble sports will show much better.

huckleberry wrote: ↑Mon Nov 01, 2021 9:54 am
One more question on the fairing… hopefully you can see in my pictures, but I have some shallow low spots after sanding, especially in the corners. Everything seems smooth to the touch. In y’all’s experience, do you think the primer is sufficient to fill these spots? Or should I do another round of touch up fairing?

I’ll be using system 3 high build primer.
Also, a few folks have commented that the fairing compound will need a coat of neat epoxy prior to priming. Is that still the case if I’m using the S3 primer? I feel like in some of the builds I’ve seen, there didn’t look to be a near coat prior to primer.

If I do need the neat coat, should I sand the neat epoxy to rough it up before priming?

The areas that appear untouched by sand paper (darker) will likely show under primer. It looks like you have been using phenolic micro balloons. If you want the glossy glass finish, I encourage you to try Quick Fair, Total Fair, or Awl Fair and a stiff metal knife to fill the low areas without building the high spots any further. Then spread the S3.

S3 is relatively thin and will not fill much, but does provide an epoxy sealed surface, which is a good thing. In my experience it is exceptionally difficult to sand, especially in prep for top coat. I found that a dedicated surfacing primer over S3 was "softer" and therefore more easily sanded with 320 in prep for topcoat.

Rolling surfacing primer, spraying a guide coat on top of it, then block sanding with 320 is a great way to see if you have it all flat.

So close at this point. It all looks great! When you have a project that looks as good as yours, it doesn't seem right to skip any prep at the end. Good news is that there are task specific products for what your trying to do.

After letting her sit for 6 months finally got around to paint. Still a few details to finish up, but she’s almost there. Hardware, teak seadek mats, and registration coming up. Super fun build overall.

Finally gave her the splash, super fun and handles great! Had a great time with the build overall.

Great looking boat. I love mine and know you'll love yours. Once I had another 200lb guy on board and it was fine---ran 9 mph with my little 5 horse tohatsu and minn kota troll motor on the nose. Have taken another rude boat's wake over the bow by myself and no problem. Water wash out immediately thru the stern.

Dougster