Totally up to you whether to fair inside the compartment or not. I chose to do enough fairing to eliminate sharp edges and rough surfaces, then coated with white pigmented epoxy. That makes an easy to clean surface that won't snag at anchor lines.
Again your call, but wet anchor line gets slimy if it can't dry out; a simple drain hole is . . . simple. Maybe you will store the boat in a way that allows the hatch to stand open?
SK14 Build in NC
Re: SK14 Build in NC
Hank
Re: SK14 Build in NC
I also did some minimal fairing, then coated with tinted epoxy. Didn't do a drain hole but keep thinking I need to. In my use I have only gotten water in twice: once a windy day with light chop and again when rude boater graced me with a wake across the bow. No problem sponging it out but stuff in there could get wet. I keep a little 10AH lithium ion battery from Bass Pro in there to power my Garmin sonar, 'cuz running the sonar off the main trolling motor battery caused interference.
Dougster
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Re: SK14 Build in NC
How would you do a drain hole since the bottom of the compartment is lower than the sole? If I were to put a hole or plug in the stringer forming the compartment at sole level (draining on to the deck), it would only drain water above 4 or 5” in the compartment.Dougster wrote: ↑Thu Sep 30, 2021 11:45 am I also did some minimal fairing, then coated with tinted epoxy. Didn't do a drain hole but keep thinking I need to. In my use I have only gotten water in twice: once a windy day with light chop and again when rude boater graced me with a wake across the bow. No problem sponging it out but stuff in there could get wet. I keep a little 10AH lithium ion battery from Bass Pro in there to power my Garmin sonar, 'cuz running the sonar off the main trolling motor battery caused interference.
Dougster
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Re: SK14 Build in NC
Started fiberglassing then hull this past weekend. First I put one layer of tape along the chines and keel, then two large sheet of glass. Each one overlaps the keel and extends down to the bottom of the rubrails, which gives me 3 total layers at the keel and two layers at the chines.
Before I taped, I filleted the keel and chine joints and worked wet on wet with the tape.
After doing to full glass sheets, I noticed some bubbles along the break at the chines and on the keel towards the bow where it’s more of a V.
I only have one picture right now but will post more tonight.
I will do the screwdriver test tonight as well and see if the bubbles have any give or if they’re solid.
Based off this picture alone, does it look like I’d be able to inject epoxy? Or will I need to possibly sand it down and patch with new glass?
If I do need to patch, would it be a good idea to re-fillet that spot, let it cure and then sand it to shape before doing the FG patch?
Before I taped, I filleted the keel and chine joints and worked wet on wet with the tape.
After doing to full glass sheets, I noticed some bubbles along the break at the chines and on the keel towards the bow where it’s more of a V.
I only have one picture right now but will post more tonight.
I will do the screwdriver test tonight as well and see if the bubbles have any give or if they’re solid.
Based off this picture alone, does it look like I’d be able to inject epoxy? Or will I need to possibly sand it down and patch with new glass?
If I do need to patch, would it be a good idea to re-fillet that spot, let it cure and then sand it to shape before doing the FG patch?
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Re: SK14 Build in NC
I’m not sure a drain hole is applicable for my scenario, main issue listed above in response to Dougster.pee wee wrote: ↑Thu Sep 30, 2021 10:11 am Totally up to you whether to fair inside the compartment or not. I chose to do enough fairing to eliminate sharp edges and rough surfaces, then coated with white pigmented epoxy. That makes an easy to clean surface that won't snag at anchor lines.
Again your call, but wet anchor line gets slimy if it can't dry out; a simple drain hole is . . . simple. Maybe you will store the boat in a way that allows the hatch to stand open?
Do you think fairing and then coating with neat epoxy is enough protection for the compartment being damp or wet for a weekend during use? I’m not too worried about looks inside the compartment.
I will definitely be able to store with the hatch open. The boat will be stored in the garage and will only be exposed to the elements when in use.
Re: SK14 Build in NC
I don't have the plans for the SK14, so this is worth what you paid for it. The plans I've seen show a bottom panel in the anchor locker that slopes to the bow of the boat, and the drain would go through the hull. The assumption is that it would exit above the waterline! As is standard practice, you'd overdrill and fill with epoxy and fillers, then redrill for the drain. For aesthetics you can put a clamshell cover over the hole, or leave it. Or don't drain the compartment.
As for the surfaces in the compartment, I'd do at least two neat coats of epoxy either with or without fairing. At a minimum, I'd knock down the edges of the fiberglass before doing that. All wood on your boat should get at least two coats of epoxy to seal it, no difference here. Since it's got a hatch that stays closed, it will be protected from sunlight/UV that would degrade epoxy.
As for the surfaces in the compartment, I'd do at least two neat coats of epoxy either with or without fairing. At a minimum, I'd knock down the edges of the fiberglass before doing that. All wood on your boat should get at least two coats of epoxy to seal it, no difference here. Since it's got a hatch that stays closed, it will be protected from sunlight/UV that would degrade epoxy.
Hank
Re: SK14 Build in NC
Oops I wasn't very clear. My forward compartment is divided into two parts. The aft compartment's bottom is flush with the sole, so can drain there. Small forward compartment could'nt drain but only has small fairly welled sealed access hatch to get to bolts securing the trolling motor. No water in there to date.
Dougster
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Re: SK14 Build in NC
About the glass, looks like those bubbles need to be cut out and fixed. Fill the hole with thickened epoxy and put a layer of glass over the spot.
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Re: SK14 Build in NC
100% agree with Fuzz. I allowed bubbles on the bottom as big as 3mm (1/8th") no more. Mine was a planing hull but still.
I'd try drilling two holes first and injecting epoxy if you can, otherwise grind and fill. If there's other layers of tape under it, or only a small part of the chine/keel then it should be ok. If you feel like the strength has been compromised at that point, then fill with a microballoon/silica mix, fill the weave everywhere else, sand until smooth, then retape. If the surface you are taping on is less than 100% smooth laying some epoxy down under slightly thickened helps avoid bubbles under. Neat epoxy tends to run out. You can do far far worse to a boat than adding additional glass on the keel.
I had far far worse than that when first glassing my C17. Ended up stripping the entire hull.
I'd try drilling two holes first and injecting epoxy if you can, otherwise grind and fill. If there's other layers of tape under it, or only a small part of the chine/keel then it should be ok. If you feel like the strength has been compromised at that point, then fill with a microballoon/silica mix, fill the weave everywhere else, sand until smooth, then retape. If the surface you are taping on is less than 100% smooth laying some epoxy down under slightly thickened helps avoid bubbles under. Neat epoxy tends to run out. You can do far far worse to a boat than adding additional glass on the keel.
I had far far worse than that when first glassing my C17. Ended up stripping the entire hull.
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Re: SK14 Build in NC
Thanks all!
I was looking at it a little closer last night and tried poking some holes in preparation to inject. I don’t think the spots are big enough to effectively inject, mainly because don’t have a small enough syringe at the moment to inject without having to drill at least a 1/4” hole.
I don’t have any microballoon or silica mix either and would like to try to get this knocked out tonight so I can start fairing.
Last night I cut out of the bigger bubbles towards the stern with a razor and sanded down the edges.
Let me know if I’m totally off base but from what y’all have said and what I’ve read, after all areas are sanded down I plan to put down some epoxy thickened with wood flour and lay over a few patch layers of glass (# of layers to match what was originally installed) while thickened epoxy is still wet, with the top layer being larger and overlapping the good glass around. Then brush on some neat epoxy on top.
The few spots along the keel are about the size of a half dollar or smaller. The spots along the chines are only as wide as the fillet (about 1/4”) and vary from 1” to about 6” long.
The only spots I’m talking about are ones that have any give in them when pressed with a screwdriver.
I was looking at it a little closer last night and tried poking some holes in preparation to inject. I don’t think the spots are big enough to effectively inject, mainly because don’t have a small enough syringe at the moment to inject without having to drill at least a 1/4” hole.
I don’t have any microballoon or silica mix either and would like to try to get this knocked out tonight so I can start fairing.
Last night I cut out of the bigger bubbles towards the stern with a razor and sanded down the edges.
Let me know if I’m totally off base but from what y’all have said and what I’ve read, after all areas are sanded down I plan to put down some epoxy thickened with wood flour and lay over a few patch layers of glass (# of layers to match what was originally installed) while thickened epoxy is still wet, with the top layer being larger and overlapping the good glass around. Then brush on some neat epoxy on top.
The few spots along the keel are about the size of a half dollar or smaller. The spots along the chines are only as wide as the fillet (about 1/4”) and vary from 1” to about 6” long.
The only spots I’m talking about are ones that have any give in them when pressed with a screwdriver.
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