SK14 Build in NC

[huckleberry]

FG taped the sole to the hull sides. Going to do some touch up shaping on the rub rails and transom and then give her the flip and start on the hull.

Couple questions…
At what point should I install the bow eye? After priming of the hull? after fairing before priming? Or even before that?
Also, I was planning on just priming the inside of the bow compartment to make it look a little nicer (without fairing). Does that sound normal?

[TomW1]

Put the bow eye after totally painting the boat, that way you won't have to worry about taping it and the wood underneath will be full protected.

As for the bow compartment, what are you planning to stow in there? If wet anchor line you will need to paint it with your exterior paint and allow for a drainage hole. I would still paint it with your deck paint, Primer is not that tough or long long lasting.

Tom

[huckleberry]

Put the bow eye after totally painting the boat, that wa won't have to worry about taping it.

As for the bow compartment, what are you planning to stow in there? If wet anchor line you will need to paint it with your exterior paint and allow for a drainage hole. I would still paint it with your deck paint, Primer is not that tough or long long lasting.

Tom

So I should wait to install casting/upper deck sole, finish paint the bottom then turn it back over to secure the bow eye? Only ask cause then I’ll have to wait to fair anything on the top side or at least the casting deck cause I’m not sure I’ll be able to easily access the bow eye backing through the hatch in the casting deck once it’s installed.

For the bow compartment, yes an anchor line will likely be in there at some point. Since I went with the extended sole version the compartment is very small and I wasn’t planning on putting in a drainage hole, just sponging it out when needed (something I saw from either Seaslug or Dougster I believe).
Painting it is isn’t an issue other than I’m itching to get the deck on the bow compartment so I can cutout my hatch opening and fair the top. Also don’t have my paint yet. Guess I’ll have to just wait and focus on the bottom.

Side note: I’m using System Three Yacht primer and plan to go with Awlgrip Polyester urethane top coat for paint.

[Jaysen]

General thought... add access to the back of the bow eye as they always seem to come loose. It may not happen for a couple of years, but at some point, you will go to snap the strap on and it will wiggle. Better to have access than to cut holes in the deck later.

[huckleberry]

General thought... add access to the back of the bow eye as they always seem to come loose. It may not happen for a couple of years, but at some point, you will go to snap the strap on and it will wiggle. Better to have access than to cut holes in the deck later.

That’s good to know, thanks!
I will definitely have access (picture of hatch from earlier in the build below). I just figured it would be easier to do the initial install of the eye before I put the deck on and have to work through the hatch.

[Jaysen]

If you have the access, you will be much happier installing the bow eye as one of your last steps. That helps you get a nice finish with a lot less effort. It allows you you seal the eye perfectly to the paint surface. Do all the drilling and backer block work now, even test fit the eye, just pull it before you paint.

[huckleberry]

If you have the access, you will be much happier installing the bow eye as one of your last steps. That helps you get a nice finish with a lot less effort. It allows you you seal the eye perfectly to the paint surface. Do all the drilling and backer block work now, even test fit the eye, just pull it before you paint.

Perfect, thanks to you both!
Last thing on the eye.. I bought one of the bow eyes from BBC. How much should I over drill for it? 1/4”?
Any tricks for cleanly filling that deep of a hole with wood flour epoxy? My guess would be piping it out of a bag and cleaning up the excess spill out quickly after inserting the eye?

[Jaysen]

upsizing by 1/4 is good.

I think you have a bit of a gap in the idea of over drill, fill, and drill.
1. Drill the oversized hole.
2. Fill hole with thickened epoxy.
3. Wait for cure (hard enough to drill but does not need to be full).
4. Drill properly sized hole.

You don't want to put the eye in the epoxy. You are using epoxy to create a 100% water-tight collar in the holes for the bow eye.

#2 can be tricky. Here's how I've been doing it.
1. tape over the side of the hole that isn't going to be easily seen. In your case the inside.
2. Make epoxy that is heavy with fumed silica or other structural fill. I would avoid wood flour as there is a possibility it could allow some water into the ply (it is a very small possibility and unlikely, but why risk it). DO NOT USE FAIRING ADDITIVES.
3. pipe the epoxy into the holes filling from the bottom and slowly pulling the piping bag out of the hole.
4. Carefully smooth the fill to the surface. do not overwork it.
5. Once cured you should find a little dent in the middle of the hole.
6. When you actually put the bow eye in, use some 4200 to make sure the holes are completely sealed.

[huckleberry]

upsizing by 1/4 is good.

I think you have a bit of a gap in the idea of over drill, fill, and drill.
1. Drill the oversized hole.
2. Fill hole with thickened epoxy.
3. Wait for cure (hard enough to drill but does not need to be full).
4. Drill properly sized hole.

You don't want to put the eye in the epoxy. You are using epoxy to create a 100% water-tight collar in the holes for the bow eye.

#2 can be tricky. Here's how I've been doing it.
1. tape over the side of the hole that isn't going to be easily seen. In your case the inside.
2. Make epoxy that is heavy with fumed silica or other structural fill. I would avoid wood flour as there is a possibility it could allow some water into the ply (it is a very small possibility and unlikely, but why risk it). DO NOT USE FAIRING ADDITIVES.
3. pipe the epoxy into the holes filling from the bottom and slowly pulling the piping bag out of the hole.
4. Carefully smooth the fill to the surface. do not overwork it.
5. Once cured you should find a little dent in the middle of the hole.
6. When you actually put the bow eye in, use some 4200 to make sure the holes are completely sealed.

That’s exactly what I needed, sorry for the elementary questions. New world for me and these little details are where I seem to get most lost.
Thanks so much!

[VT_Jeff]

Here's one more thought on overdrilling/re-drilling.

Use an X to mark your hole center and extend the lines a fair bit before drilling. Drill and fill as Jaysen pointed out. Once cured, Re-connect your X lines to re-establish the original center. Punch it with a nail, then start with small drill bits, work your way up to the final size so you stay in the center of your fill. Nothing worse than wandering into your wood while re-drilling, ask me how I know!