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MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2021 9:24 pm
by markabernardi
Hey All,

Almost ready to begin my fs14ls build, cant wait to dive in!
Image https://www.community.boatbuildercentra ... fullsize=1

mb

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2021 12:34 am
by Fuzz
Sounds good :D Post lots of pictures, we like our boat porn :wink:

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2021 9:46 am
by VT_Jeff
Nice! The FS14LS community is growing!

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2021 10:14 am
by Jeff
MB, Welcome to our Builders Forum!! We look forward to watching your build!! Jeff

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2021 1:23 pm
by markabernardi
Fuzz - happy to oblige. Glued the long panels together, there was more play than I was anticipating so I didnt have to use a mallet to get the puzzle joints to mate up.
1st 2 layers of transom are together, as are the stringers with butt blocks. Glad I got the slow cure epoxy!

Its so dry here that a lot of my plywood has developed some curves so hopefully i can use that to my advantage when i place the long panels on the frames.

On the transom the plans say the following: 'Note that we show one layer for the transom and one layer for a clamping board. You can make the clamping board the same size as the transom, in other words, have a transom made from 2 layers or 2 layers of 9mm plus the clamping board. This is required if you install a 25 HP.'

And then further below: 'Note that the plans show the stringers dimensions to fit under the clamping board. If you build the whole transom from 2 layers, you must take that in account and cut a slice off the rear of the stringers: 10 mm or 3/8”. We show that cutting line.

The CNC kit came with (3) full transom pieces which threw me off - my plan is to have (2) layers for my transom which will be hanging a 20 hp. Which leaves me a spare transom layer from my CNC kit. Is the intent for that 3rd layer to be trimmed to fit for a clamping board? Do I need a clamping board for a 20hp if I already have (2) layers, or is that overkill? Either way it looks like I have to trim the 3/8" off the end of the stringers.

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2021 1:36 pm
by VT_Jeff
markabernardi wrote: Mon Sep 13, 2021 1:23 pm Fuzz - happy to oblige. Glued the long panels together, there was more play than I was anticipating so I didnt have to use a mallet to get the puzzle joints to mate up.
1st 2 layers of transom are together, as are the stringers with butt blocks. Glad I got the slow cure epoxy!

Its so dry here that a lot of my plywood has developed some curves so hopefully i can use that to my advantage when i place the long panels on the frames.

On the transom the plans say the following: 'Note that we show one layer for the transom and one layer for a clamping board. You can make the clamping board the same size as the transom, in other words, have a transom made from 2 layers or 2 layers of 9mm plus the clamping board. This is required if you install a 25 HP.'

And then further below: 'Note that the plans show the stringers dimensions to fit under the clamping board. If you build the whole transom from 2 layers, you must take that in account and cut a slice off the rear of the stringers: 10 mm or 3/8”. We show that cutting line.

The CNC kit came with (3) full transom pieces which threw me off - my plan is to have (2) layers for my transom which will be hanging a 20 hp. Which leaves me a spare transom layer from my CNC kit. Is the intent for that 3rd layer to be trimmed to fit for a clamping board? Do I need a clamping board for a 20hp if I already have (2) layers, or is that overkill? Either way it looks like I have to trim the 3/8" off the end of the stringers.
I think the transom is a good place for overkill. If it were me, I'd use the 3rd piece at least for a clamping board and possibly full-sized. Mine uses 2 full-sized pieces plus a clamping board for a 20hp 4-stroke with elec start and elec tilt,and it still flexed some and cause a crack between the transom and rear deck. I notched my stringers into the inner layer to avoid the need to modify the stringers. Not sure if your kit stringers were cut for 1, 2 or 3 layers.

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2021 1:40 pm
by Fuzz
X2 on what VT Jeff said.

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 5:58 pm
by markabernardi
Long hiatus, had to go on a fishing/crabbing binge in ilwaco, colorado, and galveston. made some progress tho!

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:11 pm
by markabernardi
I added that third board for a thicker transom. as you can see, there is a bit of a gap between the hull and the stringer with the thicker transom. This results in the hull taking on concave shape. In order to remedy this i was thinking of trimming the angle off the transom so the hull sits flat. Other option would be to slide the transom vertically downwards relative to the stringer and then fill the resulting gap with epoxy. I like the idea of trimming that angle down so i have a nice solid, flush contact between the transom and the bottom hull panel. Thoughts?

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:20 pm
by markabernardi
couldnt quite discern from the plans if the puzzle joints on the hull side panels require fiberglass on the outside? I know on the bottom panels, puzzle joints get completely glassed over on the exterior. That same bottom section of fiberglass overlaps the chine by 6" on the side panels. because it only overlaps it by 6", do i need to grind down the outside of the puzzle joint by 1/16" inch, and glass the exterior as indicated below to ensure strength?

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:38 pm
by VT_Jeff
markabernardi wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:11 pm I added that third board for a thicker transom. as you can see, there is a bit of a gap between the hull and the stringer with the thicker transom. This results in the hull taking on concave shape. In order to remedy this i was thinking of trimming the angle off the transom so the hull sits flat. Other option would be to slide the transom vertically downwards relative to the stringer and then fill the resulting gap with epoxy. I like the idea of trimming that angle down so i have a nice solid, flush contact between the transom and the bottom hull panel. Thoughts?
There are some considerations when adding transom layers: it adds overall length that needs to be considered and also the mating of the bottom panels that you're looking at. I shifted down and filled the gap, btw.

I'm not in a position to elaborate at the moment but I'd be interested in hearing about any steps you have already considered to compensate. Trent and Cameron may have some thoughts as well.

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:46 pm
by markabernardi
looks like Jacques replied to a similar inquiry in the forums:
' No need for butt blocks. The kits use a puzzle joint, just as strong as a butt block.
The puzzle joints (serration) are covered by fiberglass at the chine and rubrail. They are also covered by the seat top tape and most builders cover the bottom with fiberglass. Except for a couple inches, the whole seam is covered but to be safe, cover the puzzle joint with a layer of tape before assembly. . '

I will definitely be taping the inside puzzle joint on the side panels the full length of the joint.

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:52 pm
by markabernardi
VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:38 pm
markabernardi wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:11 pm I added that third board for a thicker transom. as you can see, there is a bit of a gap between the hull and the stringer with the thicker transom. This results in the hull taking on concave shape. In order to remedy this i was thinking of trimming the angle off the transom so the hull sits flat. Other option would be to slide the transom vertically downwards relative to the stringer and then fill the resulting gap with epoxy. I like the idea of trimming that angle down so i have a nice solid, flush contact between the transom and the bottom hull panel. Thoughts?
There are some considerations when adding transom layers: it adds overall length that needs to be considered and also the mating of the bottom panels that you're looking at. I shifted down and filled the gap, btw.

I'm not in a position to elaborate at the moment but I'd be interested in hearing about any steps you have already considered to compensate. Trent and Cameron may have some thoughts as well.
good to know shifting down works. with that 3rd layer, had to take off 3/4" length from the stringers

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 7:05 pm
by VT_Jeff
markabernardi wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:52 pm
VT_Jeff wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:38 pm
markabernardi wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:11 pm I added that third board for a thicker transom. as you can see, there is a bit of a gap between the hull and the stringer with the thicker transom. This results in the hull taking on concave shape. In order to remedy this i was thinking of trimming the angle off the transom so the hull sits flat. Other option would be to slide the transom vertically downwards relative to the stringer and then fill the resulting gap with epoxy. I like the idea of trimming that angle down so i have a nice solid, flush contact between the transom and the bottom hull panel. Thoughts?
There are some considerations when adding transom layers: it adds overall length that needs to be considered and also the mating of the bottom panels that you're looking at. I shifted down and filled the gap, btw.

I'm not in a position to elaborate at the moment but I'd be interested in hearing about any steps you have already considered to compensate. Trent and Cameron may have some thoughts as well.
good to know shifting down works. with that 3rd layer, had to take off 3/4" length from the stringers
Perfect. So shifting down worked for me but I only added a layer plus a clamp, I'm not sure how 2 full layers may change the geometry, but filling the gap is definitely acceptable regardless.

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 8:30 pm
by jonnymac
markabernardi wrote: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:11 pm I added that third board for a thicker transom. as you can see, there is a bit of a gap between the hull and the stringer with the thicker transom. This results in the hull taking on concave shape. In order to remedy this i was thinking of trimming the angle off the transom so the hull sits flat. Other option would be to slide the transom vertically downwards relative to the stringer and then fill the resulting gap with epoxy. I like the idea of trimming that angle down so i have a nice solid, flush contact between the transom and the bottom hull panel. Thoughts?
I’d just make sure the boat shape isn’t changing, gaps can be filled no problem, but if the hull is funny shaped now you don’t want to fill that gap. if adding the extra plywood to transom was on the inside of the transom, you may need to trim that thickness off the stringer length.

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 11:32 pm
by VT_Jeff
Since you trimmed the stringers, the extra layers were essentially added to the inside. So your outer layer is in the originally designed position, so shifting it down should be fine. There is some weirdness in how the deck corners meet the transom in the design, I dont think the extra layer will complicate that much.

And I dont think you're actually shifting it down, I think it's designed to have the bottom panels meet the highest edge of the transom and have a gap there. It's probably common to many of the designs. I recall a post about it, I'll try to dig it up.

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2021 12:11 pm
by markabernardi
ended up trimming the angle, had to remove transom and re-align, but i love that i won't have a large, hard-to-get-to gap to fill.
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Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2021 1:12 pm
by VT_Jeff
Nicely done, looks like a good fit.

Now is the time to ensure you don't have any unwanted hook near the stern, much easier to fix now then it is after you've glassed it.

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2022 1:54 pm
by markabernardi
Made some permanent moves finally, stitch welded the seams with gel magic, cut the stiches and it held. Should have done more homework on getting the hull panels to fit on the transom, but I think (hope!) what i did is sufficient. a lot more pictures in the gallery now too. Finally got a cold snap here in colorado, so had to hooch up the garage with some plastic and (2) space heaters, sealed it up well enough to keep it 65-70 F when it was 12 outside.

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The hull doesn't sit flat on the stringer on the one side, it kind of bubbles out. When I push it down my level sits flat. probably not more than 1/8" to 3/16" of a bubble. Any concern here? I wonder if when i flip it, after glass and fairing on the outside, when i tab the stringer to the hull panel if I can make it true.
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Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2022 10:58 am
by Dougster
Sure would be nice to fix it now. Can you weight it down, then crawl under there and thickened epoxy glue it down where need be?

Dougster

Re: MAB's FS14LS

Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2022 3:53 pm
by VT_Jeff
Agree with dougster: get that panel how you want it before you glass. Shim it or whatever necessary. First step is to determine the cause, I suspect something is rubbing somewhere.