Thanks for the info re wood flour barraman.
I'm now working on the layout for the strakes. Is there a preferred orientation for the strakes at the bow?
The other CS builds I've followed dont show much of an upturn at the bow, but every boat I've checked out near me has strakes coming up to the chine around the bow.
This one by Walkers Run:
This one by peter-curacao:
I've come up with this detail which seems ok for me, just want to make sure it wont cause any issues:
And last question, at the stern, should the strakes be parallel with the keel or slightly curved?
CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom
Seems that the desired function of the strakes determines how far forward they should run. I always assumed their purpose is to keep the boat from slipping from side to side, in which case they would offer little for effectiveness curving up the bow, and best to run parallel to the keel.
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom
The curve up the bow is for elimination of any undesirable turbulence in higher seas, and looks nice.
Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom
You did not need to carry them all the way to the bow as the will be out of the water when on plane, but they look nice. As far as the transom it is best to end them 15-18" short of the transom, they have done their work and need that distance to let the water come back together for a smooth exit under the transom. The same with the skeg leave it short the same amount so you have smooth water flowing to the prop.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
- BarraMan
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom
I'll start by saying that "I know nothing", but I have built a boat that works! If it were moi, I would do the strakes as per the pics of my boat on page 6 of this thread. That probably comes as no surprise!
I'd put one strake on each side - midway between the chine and the keel. I would taper it at the bow end and follow the sweep of the chine around to near the bow/cut water (or whatever the front of the boat is called! )
I would run the strake parallel to the keel from the widest part of the boat back to the transom.
If your putting twin motors on the boat then I would follow Tom's advice to stop the strakes short of the transom, but if your going with a single then I don't think it matters. You can see that mine run right to the transom.
By good luck more than anything (Jasques said my boat doesn't need strakes!) my boat handles very well in all the conditions I have had it out in, and it seems to have NO vices at all. It corners like its on rails! If I run it at say 30kts and pull it into a tight turn then feed all 250 hp into it, I can just get it to start to power-slide.
Your call on the skeg! I don't have one but maybe it may help give some protection if you are beaching it regularly or in danger of hitting shingle or oyster beds. I am usually over mud or sand!
Cheers
Lee
I'd put one strake on each side - midway between the chine and the keel. I would taper it at the bow end and follow the sweep of the chine around to near the bow/cut water (or whatever the front of the boat is called! )
I would run the strake parallel to the keel from the widest part of the boat back to the transom.
If your putting twin motors on the boat then I would follow Tom's advice to stop the strakes short of the transom, but if your going with a single then I don't think it matters. You can see that mine run right to the transom.
By good luck more than anything (Jasques said my boat doesn't need strakes!) my boat handles very well in all the conditions I have had it out in, and it seems to have NO vices at all. It corners like its on rails! If I run it at say 30kts and pull it into a tight turn then feed all 250 hp into it, I can just get it to start to power-slide.
Your call on the skeg! I don't have one but maybe it may help give some protection if you are beaching it regularly or in danger of hitting shingle or oyster beds. I am usually over mud or sand!
Cheers
Lee
Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom
Lee the only thing I can reply to your response is remember you have the Mangusta with a much deeper/sharper keel than the CS23. Jacques talks about the skeg in the CS23 and the need for it in the study plans. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom
The Mangusta has 18 degrees of deadrise at the transom, while the CS23 has ............................. 17 degrees!
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