CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom

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rsiedl
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom

Post by rsiedl »

Also, would the build up on the chine and transom (to get the sharper edge) be 100% cabosil?
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fallguy1000
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom

Post by fallguy1000 »

rsiedl wrote: Wed Aug 31, 2022 10:22 pm Thanks fallguy.

Is it worth colouring it with anything?
Not really. After awhile, I like to switch to Quikfair. It is pink and mixes up nice in small batches, but what I really like is that it fills cleaned pinholes well. To avoid lotsa pinholes; avoid too dry a mix. To avoid sag; avoid too wet. I pile the compound up and if it sags in 10 seconds on my hawk; it is too wet. Eventually, I had a formula. I can share it, but you'll need to tweak it for spheres and epoxy variation.

After you get lotsa colors; it gets too hard to see anything. This is why people do mist coats with spraypaint...to get uniform color to see sirface variation.
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fallguy1000
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom

Post by fallguy1000 »

rsiedl wrote: Wed Aug 31, 2022 10:24 pm Also, would the build up on the chine and transom (to get the sharper edge) be 100% cabosil?
I use cab and milled fiber. I rarely use fairing compound for edge buildup. It is a bit soft is all. If you have no milled fiber; you can use cab.
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TomW1
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom

Post by TomW1 »

Make sure you round over the edges to at least 1/8" round so the paint will stick to the edges. Otherwise, the paint will come off over time there. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

rsiedl
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom

Post by rsiedl »

Made up a test piece for my strakes.

Image

I layed up some glass in a mold and gave it a coat of straight epoxy. Then filled that with epoxy/milled fibres and microspheres.

Will that do the job? My only concerns are the corner which is straight epoxy and the holes in the microsphere mix.

For the corner, perhaps I should lay down a bed of cabosil/epoxy first and embed the glass in that?
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TomW1
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom

Post by TomW1 »

That will work fine as you will will be covering them with 12oz biax anyway. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

fallguy1000
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom

Post by fallguy1000 »

Bonding that to the hull will be the critical bit. All secondary bonds. So, you'll need 40 grit sanding on the hull side of the formed strake and something rough on the boat side, say 60 min. Then bonding them to the hull would be done by applying 1/16" vee trowel to both the strake and hull to avoid a dry joint. It'll be a bit tricky to hold the strakes on the hull and in position, but you can probably hot glue some blocks on and remove them with a bit of heat later.

Cross post with Tom. You can't laminate over them easily. More discussion needed.
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Fuzz
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom

Post by Fuzz »

The hot glue blocks will work. You need to come up with a way to put some weight on them while the epoxy glue sets. Just enough weight to ensure good contact.

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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom

Post by fallguy1000 »

You can hotglue small pieces of 3/4" by 3/4" pine and then put a piece across or make pieces with a dado for the strake, then a shim pushed gently would hold it.

There is no need to glass over these, but you can. But not the hull glass; that is too complex. To glass over these would require a light woven like 6 oz and then you need vacuum. I did this on the 13' Whaler and then cutout for the strake already there on a secons go for the whole hull. Bottom line is do not add these before hull glass or you are creating a nightmare and the hull will not be monocoque.
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pee wee
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Re: CS23 Build Config: Open Deck / Closed Transom

Post by pee wee »

You made that sample in a mould off the boat, but you will build it in place, right?

I agree about the straight epoxy being too brittle to use for sharpening the edges, some milled fibers or structural filler added to the resin would be good.
Hank

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