Hi all,
iI also have a bulkhead C and D question. Could I cut them down as illustrated below once they were installed?
Thanks,
Bill
GV13 questions pre build
Re: GV13 questions pre build
No, all bulk heads must be 3" thick at all points. A 1/2-3/4" drainage hole at the bottom would be okay. The small area you leave in that bulk head is a stress point and is just waiting to fail on the first wave you hit hard. Also never use sharp inside angles in a boat as they can cause stress cracks, round them. Sorry I just re-read this and it sounds pretty harsh, please don't take it that way. Just trying to keep you from having problems.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: GV13 questions pre build
Ahh, of course. Good point, not harsh. I was hoping to position the aft face of the center console in front of frame C about 5 inches, hence the severely cut back frame. But I could also integrate frame C as the aft face of the console, as illustrated here, potentially with a sole, as noted:TomW1 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 22, 2021 8:30 pm No, all bulk heads must be 3" thick at all points. A 1/2-3/4" drainage hole at the bottom would be okay. The small area you leave in that bulk head is a stress point and is just waiting to fail on the first wave you hit hard. Also never use sharp inside angles in a boat as they can cause stress cracks, round them. Sorry I just re-read this and it sounds pretty harsh, please don't take it that way. Just trying to keep you from having problems.
Tom
Bill
- Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: GV13 questions pre build
The upside down V cut is because the GV13 has some stringers that are made up 2 pieces of plywood in an inverted V shape. Naturally the bulkhead must be notched to suit.
I am concerned about the position of your console. On such a small boat a single person is a big weight. So if you are going to operate the boat with just 1 person, having a console further back will put too much weight aft, sorry. There is a reason the steering position is where it is on the plans. It works with 1 person. With a 2nd person they can sit beside the operator or forward depending on their weight.
How about building your console so you are still sitting on the middle seat position, but make your console centered and taller so you're standing at it. As long as you keep framing depth shown on the plans you're OK.
Since you are putting in a sole, you could change the upside down V stringers to 2 laminated together pieces of plywood that do not penetrate the frames (stopping and starting at each frame). This would allow you to keep frames at a minimum depth
I am concerned about the position of your console. On such a small boat a single person is a big weight. So if you are going to operate the boat with just 1 person, having a console further back will put too much weight aft, sorry. There is a reason the steering position is where it is on the plans. It works with 1 person. With a 2nd person they can sit beside the operator or forward depending on their weight.
How about building your console so you are still sitting on the middle seat position, but make your console centered and taller so you're standing at it. As long as you keep framing depth shown on the plans you're OK.
Since you are putting in a sole, you could change the upside down V stringers to 2 laminated together pieces of plywood that do not penetrate the frames (stopping and starting at each frame). This would allow you to keep frames at a minimum depth
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
SK17,MM21/MT24
SK17,MM21/MT24
Re: GV13 questions pre build
Hey Evan,
Thanks for all that insight. I think I can make it work. This drawing is pretty close to the captain’s dimensions on my Redwing, more or less: Best case scenario I’d like to preserve the center console with fore seat, my wife likes that. I’m glad I can use this alternative stringer. How tall should they be? Like 3” also?
Thanks,
Bill
Thanks for all that insight. I think I can make it work. This drawing is pretty close to the captain’s dimensions on my Redwing, more or less: Best case scenario I’d like to preserve the center console with fore seat, my wife likes that. I’m glad I can use this alternative stringer. How tall should they be? Like 3” also?
Thanks,
Bill
- Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: GV13 questions pre build
Yes, 2 x 3/8" plywood stringers, 3" high will be similar enough to the inverse V shaped one in strength.
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
SK17,MM21/MT24
SK17,MM21/MT24
- Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: GV13 questions pre build
Good idea on the fwd seat in front of the console.
Make sure the angle of the seatback is about 12-15 degrees. Make sure you have enough depth in the upper part of the console for throttle/shift mechanism and steering mechanism too.
Make sure the angle of the seatback is about 12-15 degrees. Make sure you have enough depth in the upper part of the console for throttle/shift mechanism and steering mechanism too.
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
SK17,MM21/MT24
SK17,MM21/MT24
Re: GV13 questions pre build
On a side note, I’d like to see some pics of your Redwing. I love that boat.
Jbo
Jbo
Re: GV13 questions pre build
Here’s the Redwing. A little too big for towing with our camper van.
Re: GV13 questions pre build
Thanks for this!Evan_Gatehouse wrote: ↑Mon Sep 27, 2021 2:56 pm Good idea on the fwd seat in front of the console.
Make sure the angle of the seatback is about 12-15 degrees. Make sure you have enough depth in the upper part of the console for throttle/shift mechanism and steering mechanism too.
Do you know of a compact mechanical steering helm? I installed the Seastar NFB 4.2 in my Redwing and it is huge. It looks like the Safe-T II is smaller, but, wow, those things are bulky.
Bill
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