2 Part Hull
2 Part Hull
Would it be possible to build a GV10 with the front 2 feet of the boat removeable? Built with a double bulkhead at the 2 foot mark (like the spindrift sailboat) the hull could be cut in two. The bow section would then nest in the main hull. I would like to do this so I can weaver davit the Garvey on a 8.5 foot wide hull. Sorry, Photos are of a GV11 with a 3 foot section, but I think a GV10 with 2 foot split would be better, well you get the Idea.
Re: 2 Part Hull
This is a question for Evan the designer, hope that he sees this and he will answer you soon.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
- Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: 2 Part Hull
Yeah you could do it. I'm not as happy doing it with a planing hull because the hull forces are 10x that of a rowing/sailing dinghy.
But the GV10 rides with the bow up in the air at speed and doesn't usually touch the water unless it's really choppy. If you get a day with a lot of chop and you're banging the bow into the waves you maybe won't be able to stay on plane. This is not an easy thing to calculate so all this is at your own risk.
It's up to you to design this modification but at a minimum:
- 6 x 5/16" bolts around the perimeter. 2 in the top corners, 2 on bottom outboard, 2 on bottom inboard.
- Use local reinforcements of a plywood doubler at each bolt location. About 2" wide x 1" high, bevel the edges and epoxy glue. Use fender washers with rubber washers on the bolts below the waterline (4 of the 6 bolts)
- use little knees at the bulkhead/side panel joint on each mating bulkhead i.e. 4 knees total, about 3" on each edge, 3/8" plywood
- bracket the bottom stringers to the bulkheads, extra layer of tape at the joint
- the bulkheads don't have to be full depth, just deep enough to keep out the water when the boat is fully loaded. Roughly half height of the hull there depending on how you load the boat.
But the GV10 rides with the bow up in the air at speed and doesn't usually touch the water unless it's really choppy. If you get a day with a lot of chop and you're banging the bow into the waves you maybe won't be able to stay on plane. This is not an easy thing to calculate so all this is at your own risk.
It's up to you to design this modification but at a minimum:
- 6 x 5/16" bolts around the perimeter. 2 in the top corners, 2 on bottom outboard, 2 on bottom inboard.
- Use local reinforcements of a plywood doubler at each bolt location. About 2" wide x 1" high, bevel the edges and epoxy glue. Use fender washers with rubber washers on the bolts below the waterline (4 of the 6 bolts)
- use little knees at the bulkhead/side panel joint on each mating bulkhead i.e. 4 knees total, about 3" on each edge, 3/8" plywood
- bracket the bottom stringers to the bulkheads, extra layer of tape at the joint
- the bulkheads don't have to be full depth, just deep enough to keep out the water when the boat is fully loaded. Roughly half height of the hull there depending on how you load the boat.
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
SK17,MM21/MT24
SK17,MM21/MT24
- Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: 2 Part Hull
Bolt locations about here. Not to scale
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
SK17,MM21/MT24
SK17,MM21/MT24
Re: 2 Part Hull
Thanks Evan for the quick reply. I bought the GV 11 plans (for 3 foot split) but thought the forces would be too high. I agree the 2 foot split ( on the GV10) could be out of the water most of the time on plane. Time to order GV 10 plans and begin design drawings. Thanks
Not that I want it all but? Any chance a folding transom (like the Highfield classic 310) could be made or am I way out there?
Not that I want it all but? Any chance a folding transom (like the Highfield classic 310) could be made or am I way out there?
- Evan_Gatehouse
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- Joined: Tue Aug 27, 2002 1:00 am
- Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
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