SK 14 Build NSW South Coast, Australia
Re: SK 14 Build NSW South Coast, Australia
Give yourself a tiny radius on those chines, 1/16 to 1/8", to make it hold paint better. As I understand it, it's not a big deal unless you are into performance, but you may eke out a mph or two at top speed.
Hank
Re: SK 14 Build NSW South Coast, Australia
I agree with pee wee, you need a small radius for the paaint to hold on to. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
- BarraMan
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Re: SK 14 Build NSW South Coast, Australia
On the other hand, I have very sharp chines on my boat, painted with 2 pack polyurethane International Perfection paint. After 5 years of use there are no signs of the paint not holding on the sharp chines!
Re: SK 14 Build NSW South Coast, Australia
G’day all and a merry Christmas to everyone from Downunder.
Just adding some photo updates, I finally have the front foredeck glued down and glassed, finished the back corner sections as well.
Question regarding transom length, mines currently at 440mm. The mercury short shaft I have in mind is 15inch or 381mm. How much variation is acceptable between the anti cavitation plate and the bottom of the hull? I’m guessing an inch or so would be ok but not too much more. Do I cut the transom down to 400mm all the way across or just notch a section out of the Center to allow the motor to sit lower and the anti-cavitation plate to sit slightly higher than the bottom of the hull?
Cheers,
Sturty
Just adding some photo updates, I finally have the front foredeck glued down and glassed, finished the back corner sections as well.
Question regarding transom length, mines currently at 440mm. The mercury short shaft I have in mind is 15inch or 381mm. How much variation is acceptable between the anti cavitation plate and the bottom of the hull? I’m guessing an inch or so would be ok but not too much more. Do I cut the transom down to 400mm all the way across or just notch a section out of the Center to allow the motor to sit lower and the anti-cavitation plate to sit slightly higher than the bottom of the hull?
Cheers,
Sturty
Re: SK 14 Build NSW South Coast, Australia
Happy new year to all,
Just some build updates
Going through and fairing the deck at the moment. I cut the transom down to 390mm so should give me about 9mm from the keel to anti ventilation plate on the motor, I figured it was easier to lift the engine a little bit once the transom is cut rather than having to notch the transom.
I took some photos of the grey teak foam I’m gonna use on the main deck. Looks like I’ll be ready to paint soon, I’m still undecided on what size scupper drain to use. I’ve seen a few use round scupper valves, but I have my eye on a rectangular stainless one that would look excellent but it’s expensive! It would stop the deck getting wet when putting it in the water, however it is a wet deck boat so maybe I will just cut out the hole and leave it open.
Cheers,
Sturty
Just some build updates
Going through and fairing the deck at the moment. I cut the transom down to 390mm so should give me about 9mm from the keel to anti ventilation plate on the motor, I figured it was easier to lift the engine a little bit once the transom is cut rather than having to notch the transom.
I took some photos of the grey teak foam I’m gonna use on the main deck. Looks like I’ll be ready to paint soon, I’m still undecided on what size scupper drain to use. I’ve seen a few use round scupper valves, but I have my eye on a rectangular stainless one that would look excellent but it’s expensive! It would stop the deck getting wet when putting it in the water, however it is a wet deck boat so maybe I will just cut out the hole and leave it open.
Cheers,
Sturty
Re: SK 14 Build NSW South Coast, Australia
If you have a viable option to keep the deck dry on launch, I would spend the money. If you're going out on a cold, still morning(as I often do) and could otherwise keep the deck and your shoes dry, be a shame to soak everything on the launch alone. I'm adding some homemade experimental scupper covers for the same reason, time will tell how well they work.Sturt wrote: ↑Thu Dec 30, 2021 11:03 pm Happy new year to all,
Just some build updates
Going through and fairing the deck at the moment. I cut the transom down to 390mm so should give me about 9mm from the keel to anti ventilation plate on the motor, I figured it was easier to lift the engine a little bit once the transom is cut rather than having to notch the transom.
I took some photos of the grey teak foam I’m gonna use on the main deck. Looks like I’ll be ready to paint soon, I’m still undecided on what size scupper drain to use. I’ve seen a few use round scupper valves, but I have my eye on a rectangular stainless one that would look excellent but it’s expensive! It would stop the deck getting wet when putting it in the water, however it is a wet deck boat so maybe I will just cut out the hole and leave it open.
Cheers,
Sturty
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: SK 14 Build NSW South Coast, Australia
I keep NRS kayak boots and socks in my kit. The boots/socks go on if the air temp is under 65 or the water temp is under 70. I also use wool or synthetic skin layers to avoid the “I’m wet” problem.
Basically I’m always wet. Either from launch, catching fish, or enjoying a brisk breeze (wave spray over the side). I just plan on changing clothes a couple times and buying the right personal gear to make me comfortable.
That said, IF you can stay dry, you win. Dry wet gear is still more comfortable than wet wet gear.
Basically I’m always wet. Either from launch, catching fish, or enjoying a brisk breeze (wave spray over the side). I just plan on changing clothes a couple times and buying the right personal gear to make me comfortable.
That said, IF you can stay dry, you win. Dry wet gear is still more comfortable than wet wet gear.
Re: SK 14 Build NSW South Coast, Australia
No thanks! I wear more than enough nylon, and neoprene in my kayak/driftboat, the skiff is cotton-and-feathers time! Your kit has gotta stink like dug-up fish!
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
- Jaysen
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Re: SK 14 Build NSW South Coast, Australia
Nah. The odor isn’t too bad to control. Bucket of bleach water while I clean up kills it quick. Boots, socks, gloves, etc all go in there.
I don’t like the stuff, but it sure beats hating my time on the water. Keep in mind I have to wade to launch/retrieve as well as hit the fish (on low). Lil Bit is basically a bowl of water.
Re: SK 14 Build NSW South Coast, Australia
I don't go out in cold weather. The rear half of the deck on my SK-14 gets plenty wet on launch, but drains immediately. I just put on wade shoes to launch, then change immediately to dry shoes/socks after I park the car and climb in the boat. The deck never gets wet after that. Well except for the time a big power boat mushed by half on plane and sent a roller over the nose. Drained right out though.
Dougster
Dougster
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