Progress on XF20

[Yesyoucan4]

On my XF20 I am close to “finishing fairing” and ready to start coating. Read and heard many different opinions so here are my questions:
1. I am putting Fasco Super Slick on bottom and 4” up. Should I coat entire outside hull with two coats of thickened epoxy before Super Slick.
2. I want to flip boat with no rub rail installed. Planning to build three supports with 2x6 lumber. Should I put any fiberglass tape on any stress areas inside hull before flipping

[Jaysen]

1. Yes but not with "thickened epoxy". Use neat epoxy with 2 coats on any bare wood. The goal is to seal the wood.

Normally that would be a thing you do before fairing to ensure you don't mess up the fairing with the application of sealer coats. There is also a school of logic that says "epoxy primer is sealing the wood". Most primer is not well suited to be water impermeable though, so make sure you check your primer as being up to the task if you are going to take that route. For example I'm not sure the System 3 primer is adequate as a sealer based on my experience.

[pee wee]

On my XF20 I am close to “finishing fairing” and ready to start coating. Read and heard many different opinions so here are my questions:
1. I am putting Fasco Super Slick on bottom and 4” up. Should I coat entire outside hull with two coats of thickened epoxy before Super Slick.
2. I want to flip boat with no rub rail installed. Planning to build three supports with 2x6 lumber. Should I put any fiberglass tape on any stress areas inside hull before flipping

Even though you don't want to install a permanent rub rail at this time, it's a good idea to install a temporary rub rail- it will give the hull sides more stiffness, and also bring the hull panels more to fair curves as you proceed with other parts of your build. For the flip you can space a few cross pieces to protect the hull panels from excess stress as the hull is rolled over. As you know, right now the hull is all bendy and prone to suggestion. You don't want to lock in some arbitrary kinks or un-fair curves during this stage and then try to deal with them later (or live with them).

Your hull should be fully fiberglassed on the bottom, so if you're asking about sealing the fairing compound with neat epoxy before paint, then yes, that's recommended.

[fallguy1000]

Spanners to hold the hull shape always wise.

Neat coats of unthickened epoxy are fine. I really like interprotect 2000 as an alternative that won't run as easily..

[Yesyoucan4]

Please give a little more information on scanners. How to connect,etc.

[Fuzz]

Leave the frames in place. Tab them in with some light stuff, just enough so they do not fall out or move. This will help stiffen things up and keep the shape after it is flipped. If you already have the frames out you can run a 2x from one side to the other and tab it in.

[fallguy1000]

You can either leave frames in and tab them with 2"x4" pieces of biaxial tapes or you can custom fit 2x4s across the hull every 5' or so.

Once flipped; you can remove the spanners or frames as bulkheads are placed or cradles are place to prevent the hull opening up. If the hull opens, it can create a hook in the bottom which is not good for planing boats.

[Yesyoucan4]

Put two coats of System Three epoxy on yesterday. Turned out well. My next step is to put two coats of Fasco Slick on bottom and up to waterline. Couple more questions:
1. Is is alright to use fine line tape after two days of epoxy cure?
2. Do I need to sand epoxy before applying Fasco
3. Still trying to figure out waterline. Some say 4” up and some XF20’s I see have no waterline
Thanks for the previous pointers. Really appreciated

[fallguy1000]

Epoxy must always be sanded for bond of non-epoxies.