Panga 25 Back at it! (Again!)

[Crystal Craft]

The last post on my panga 25 build was getting it flipped over on a snowy December day in 2020
Almost the next day I found a 1973 Slickcraft SS 235 hardtop in perfect condition but needing to be re-powered… I couldn’t resist I bought it and spent the rest of last winter 2021 pulling the old Chevy 6cyl engine, out drive, making the necessary reinforcements to install engine bracket (s). The only parts that moved forward in this redo was the hull and built in gas tank everything else was gutted out and replaced new -right down to the running lights! The project turned out great. I used it for fishing all of this summer.
Now mid October 2021 we’re putting it in storage and I’m looking forward to focusing again on my panga 25 build. I am regrouping right now assessing my supplies and refreshing my thought process on where to dig in…the hull is complete right side up in my shop just begging to be completed!
My build plans include an engine bracket and a 60 hp four stroke Tohatsu plus a 6 hp kicker. I’ll plan a center consul. I’m looking forward to getting re-involved as I put my fishing gear away and get my boat building tools lined up!
Slickcraft project, & fishing photos attached.

Crystal Craft
Thompsonville MI
Northern Lake Michigan
Today is unusually mild 75°

[TomW1]

Be very careful when adding a bracket to the PG25. You are moving the center of gravity back by the weight of the 2 motors and bracket. PG25's are notoriously known for being stern heavy and allowing water in the scuppers(PangaRon just solved his problem). You will need to move the console and other weight forward.

Tom

[Crystal Craft]

Hi Tom,
Thanks for the heads up on the location of the weight. I did the same arrangement on a 20 ft skiff and found about 12inches ahead made it work nicely. I was also thinking maybe I should have this center consul so it's at least possible to move should it be wrong..then after a good sea trial run. I had to move it ahead on a skiff project after sea trial that 12 inches from what I thought would do it. This boat is called out to be rated for a 75 to 150 ph motor...my 50 hp motor is much less that a 150 would weigh? ...about 50% or 175lbs less... It seems I should be able to adjust to suit easily.? Even with my set back of 20in. I also head hear the Panga don't like transom weight I wonder whey such big motors are suggested or used. These boats I thought were designed to perform at the lesser lighter power options...I guess I'll find out...but Ide rather start out light on the motors power and weight....and go from there.
Fishing on Lake Michigan if your trolling "with the waves"...I need the full 40in transom height at the stern plus the back "deck" to be safe from getting "swallowed up from behind". If I have the transom cut down to even a extra long shaft at 25 in...with a splash area...it's still too much exposure for flooding from behind full height stern is the answer for my purpose. And the brackets seem to perform good for me, this will be my 4th bracket build..and as you point out the issue seems to be adjusting the weight to suit. 'll keep posting thru launch on my project...hopefully I don't get side tracked again and I can see a Spring launch!
Thanks again! Steve Crystal Craft Thompsonville MI!...

[fallguy1000]

Be very careful when adding a bracket to the PG25. You are moving the center of gravity back by the weight of the 2 motors and bracket. PG25's are notoriously known for being stern heavy and allowing water in the scuppers(PangaRon just solved his problem). You will need to move the console and other weight forward.

Tom

sage advice, kind delivery, well done sir and forgive me for patronizing

[Fuzz]

As soon as you get the basic structure done inside the hull do a float test. You can use buckets of water to give the finished weight and move them around as needed.

[Crystal Craft]

Today I reached a point with the boat starting to take some shape and thought I’d share these pictures of my progress. The conduit do it is all positioned under the floor The floor panels are all fiberglassed/epoxy coated but currently just set in place until I verify the control cables and electrical will pull through the conduit properly. This boat will have two gas tanks one forward and one aft the fuel lines to both tanks will also be in conduit with a water separator at the transom. The batteries will fit under the center consul seat. I had a bracket made at Stainless Marine to offset the engine mount on the transom. I’ve also located a kicker bracket for it that I will install with a lightweight trolling motor. I’ll be powering it with a 48 hp Evinrude two stroke Mid90s model. I realize it’s on the smaller side but it’s what I have on hand and I suspect the boat will favor less power more than more it will be interesting to see how it performs with this motor on it. I’m going to use foam in the most forward to compartments then underneath the sole all the way to the transom I will leave it an airlock but it will be filled with plastic bottles. I did provide weep drain holes through the air locks to the transom with a drain plug. I have never found the “forever dry sealed for life“ To be true for me the sealed chambers Too often years later have water or worse yet water soaked foam I’m just more comfortable with being able to see it drain or not or even run air through it all. To be sure it’s dry especially before a winter stored in freezing temperatures
Crystal Craft
Steve
Thompsonville, Michigan
28 snowing

[fallguy1000]

It looks like the gunwhale angle is pretty steep to hold a beer can!

Carry on.

[TomW1]

Looking good Steve. Tom

[Crystal Craft]

Since my last update I have successfully foam filled the under sole compartments in the bow cubby, under the casting deck/fuel tank compartment and first compartment behind that with foam. The rest of the open areas under the sole will be left air chambers filled with plastic bottles. The floor panels have been covered in woven fiberglass and installed. I taped the perimeter and the floorboard seems. 6in . I made a 10 in.² seat pedestal that I threw bolted through the floor with four bolts into a larger approximately 18“ x 18“ additional of plywood covered in fiberglass for a double thickness below the seat mount. I did the same thing for the center consul mount 2 inch by quarter inch angle has been bolted with half-inch bolts through the floorboard and threw a 2 ft.² half inch reinforcement board also covered in glass for a total thickness of 1 inch.
The center consul is all wrapped in woven glass sanded and ready for paint. I’m leaving that out of the boat so it’s more convenient I put my wiring fuse panel and distribution panel in the center consul it will be easier to work on out of the boat.
Looking ahead I will be putting the deck supports in and installing my gas tanks one forward under the casting deck the other on the starboard side of the rear air tank. And in the background I am pulling the trailer I have for it out of a snowbank I’m getting new wheel bearings and seals put on it for a good measure before I start putting the bunks in place.
I did get the bow eye mounted and I have the main engine bracket, the kicker bracket and my folding swim ladder on the floor behind the boat that’s coming up soon too. So far so good. Also piles of parts await: controls, control cables. Hydraulic steering, lights, fuel lines etc!!!
PS Our Slickcraft 235 is ready to go. Lake Michigan Ice will be gone in a couple weeks. !!!! We usually get started early April here!
Steve
Crystal Craft
Thompsonville MI
35 gale wind some snow in yard lake still frozen over

[TomW1]

Looking good Steve. Tom