1984 Mako 20 Restore questions

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
wpstarling
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1984 Mako 20 Restore questions

Post by wpstarling »

Hey all,

Came across an 84 Mako that is now in my yard :) It looks like it's in pretty good condiiton given the age, the bones look strong and nothing seems rotten but the paint is obviously showing it's age. I'd really like to repaint the whole boat, starting with the bottom. I have a few questions.
1- How do you paint the bottom with the boat still on the trailer? I assume you do one of the following:
a) Paint what you can and then lift the boat on one side to get where 1 bunk is and then do the other side
b) Put boat on trailer at an angle, paint what you can, launch boat and put it on at the opposite angle to get the rest
Which is easier or is there a better option that doesn't involve removing the boat from the trailer?

2- For the paint itself I don't want to do graphite for this boat (I want the whole bottom painted same color and I've read the graphite will turn 'chalky' eventually. Since I'll be roll/tip the paint I've got 2 products that seem good
a) awlgrip top coat
b) interlux perfection
They both seem like they'll be relatively close cost wise, does anyone have experience with both? Which gives better results and seems to last longer?

Thanks everyone!

Bill
Boats restored: 1973 Glastron CV16, 1990 Proline 17 CC, 1993 Bass Boat
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)

fallguy1000
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Re: 1984 Mako 20 Restore questions

Post by fallguy1000 »

I really hate the awlgrip primer. Interlux is my advice.
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VT_Jeff
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Re: 1984 Mako 20 Restore questions

Post by VT_Jeff »

wpstarling wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 8:28 am ...I've read the graphite will turn 'chalky' eventually.
I'd be very interested in a link to where you saw that, that's new to me. So far, mine is holding up great, though only one season in.
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wpstarling
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Re: 1984 Mako 20 Restore questions

Post by wpstarling »

VT_Jeff wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 1:56 pm
wpstarling wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 8:28 am ...I've read the graphite will turn 'chalky' eventually.
I'd be very interested in a link to where you saw that, that's new to me. So far, mine is holding up great, though only one season in.
I read it on here somewhere in my searching. If I come across it again I'll send it to you. Seems that it only happens with extended direct exposure to UV. Since I would only do the bottom to just above the waterline it could work but I'm not sure how easy it would be to apply with the boat still on the trailer.
Boats restored: 1973 Glastron CV16, 1990 Proline 17 CC, 1993 Bass Boat
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)

wpstarling
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Re: 1984 Mako 20 Restore questions

Post by wpstarling »

fallguy1000 wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 12:07 pm I really hate the awlgrip primer. Interlux is my advice.
Yea i've used interlux brightside and it has held up pretty good on my other boat but the perfection is supposed to be stronger and really easy to roll and tip. I think the most important thing will be that the boat will be on the trailer while doing this
Boats restored: 1973 Glastron CV16, 1990 Proline 17 CC, 1993 Bass Boat
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)

Fuzz
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Re: 1984 Mako 20 Restore questions

Post by Fuzz »

If exposed to direct sun light the unprotected epoxy will chalk over time. I have some bright finished places that have chalked but the graphite bottom looks just fine on my 9 year old dory.
As for working on the bottom you can jack and block the hull up a couple of inches off the trailer. You can do one end at a time so the hull is never totally off the trailer.

wpstarling
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Re: 1984 Mako 20 Restore questions

Post by wpstarling »

Fuzz wrote: Mon Oct 11, 2021 2:16 pm If exposed to direct sun light the unprotected epoxy will chalk over time. I have some bright finished places that have chalked but the graphite bottom looks just fine on my 9 year old dory.
As for working on the bottom you can jack and block the hull up a couple of inches off the trailer. You can do one end at a time so the hull is never totally off the trailer.
That's good to hear about the dory. I'm doing graphite on the jon boat i'm building, do you think it would drip/run if I did it upside down on the bottom? Any negatives to doing it in sections instead of one big uniform 'layer'.
Boats restored: 1973 Glastron CV16, 1990 Proline 17 CC, 1993 Bass Boat
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)

Fuzz
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Re: 1984 Mako 20 Restore questions

Post by Fuzz »

Thin coats will not run on you. As soon as it sets up a little you can add more coats till you get what you want. For the tie in spots if the epoxy is fully cured you will need to do a light sanding but only in the tie in area. That should be fast to do. I am not much of a fan of painting the bottom as that area can take so much abuse. But at the same time putting epoxy/graphite on the bottom will not make it bullet proof. A tougher finish yes but bullet proof not so much. Good thing is it is pretty easy to repair.

wpstarling
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Re: 1984 Mako 20 Restore questions

Post by wpstarling »

yea, it's seen abuse in the sense that it's got scratches from 37 years of use. Nothing terrible, no gouges or soft spots and no repairs that I see. Just want to freshen it up with something that will last and make it look better than it does right now.

Thought about wrapping the top but I don't even know what that would cost.
Boats restored: 1973 Glastron CV16, 1990 Proline 17 CC, 1993 Bass Boat
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)

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cape man
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Re: 1984 Mako 20 Restore questions

Post by cape man »

The graphite on the bottom of my dory, including on the sides to the waterline, is still glossy after 12 years. I had to repair it at the bow years ago and it was pretty easy upside down. It is stored under a Shelter Logic canopy under oaks, so gets little direct sun. Like Fuzz said, paint it with several thin layers applying them within 12-24 hours of each other to avoid sanding. It is way cheaper than the paint you are looking at!
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