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We (wells fiberglass) are building a 8’x8’ hardtop for a sportfish that is under going a total update/renovation. Jeff and Reid from Bateau have helped us with some CNC work to make the radar pod. I will share the progress pics as we go. The first image is the Rhinoceros file that I created to help the owner decid3 what he wants for a layout.



This is a zoom in on the pod



So in order to build the pod I had the option to free hand it, cut a jig and deck it with foam, have it milled on a 5 axis cnc or cut foam sections and glue them together. There are many more ways to do but these were my immediate thoughts. So jeff and Reid were able to cut the sections in a day turn around and that made it the best option!

Rhinoceros allows you to section the model which provides the cross section geometry at any point. So I took sections of the pod on 1/2” increments which is equal to the foam thickness. That results in 12 sections to get the 6 “ thickness of the pod. These will be glued together to give me the rough shape. Then we sand to shape

This should be neat to see. I have been wondering how your latest build is coming along.

So the process to build the top begins with glueing the divinycell h60 together. We use gorilla glue together with biscuit joints and bar clamps to align and hold them together. Then we shape the foam and install conduit paths and wire channels



This top gets teaser reel recesses so those areas need to be removed so the glass pockets can be installed

Picked up the 1/2” divinycell Jeff cut for me yesterday and started to assemble the radar pod. I included two 3/4” alignment holes on each cut piece so that I could use a 3/4” dowel to align each piece in the correct position relative to the other pieces. That left me with a step geometry. Next I used my 4” grinder with a 36 grit disk to knock down the steps. The bottom edge of each piece is the section line so I grind the top corners off and get it close to the bottom corner of each piece. Then I use a sanding block with 40 grit to shape it the rest of the way. The key is cross the part on 45 degree passes. That dialed it in. Then today I glassed it with 1700 and the epoxy resin system jeff carries. I have used literal 300-400 gallons of it. All of our tops are built with it.

Next comes a sand with 40 and primer coat followed by epoxy fairing putty. I use mostly Alexseal products for finish work. Once fair we will make a product mold off this part. We will also use the part for the top we are building








This is about where it will be glassed onto the top

Cool process. Access to CNC and even 3D printing is so good these days it opens up many possibilities.

Wasn’t aware you had turned this into a real business, hope that goes well for you.

Thanks Matt, it is my son’s business and I am the technical guy and free labor.

Jeff did the CNC work and I would certainly recommend you guys use him. He is going to cut the next hard top core for us this week. It will end up being a 8’ wide 11’6” top for a 34 venture.

I've got a couple projects in queue which may ask for cnc.

Jeff can you do 3D profiles (like a foam plug)? What's the size limit of your table?

What I'd really like to get into is fabricating in aluminum. Need a friendly local waterjet or laser cutter.

The gantry on his machine is only 3” clear. He also wasn’t able to step in axis for some reason? That’s why I did the 1/2”section parts vs thicker sections

Great work DayTrip!! Love the work you and Jimmy are doing!!

Matt, no, we can only cut 2D!! Sorry. Call me and i will tell you were to go to get 3D!! Jeff

dumb question from peanut gallery

Why do you need the pod for the radar versus say just an aluminum post? Feel like I am missing something about radar installs in my pea brain. Thanks.

The pod gives you a more “custom look” which is what these are all about. Clean is the guiding principle. On this no fasters are visible. Embedded aluminum plate to drill and tap.

With the position of the satellite antenna you really don’t need it at all!

DAYTRIP wrote: ↑Tue Oct 19, 2021 5:32 pm The pod gives you a more “custom look” which is what these are all about. Clean is the guiding principle. On this no fasters are visible. Embedded aluminum plate to drill and tap.

With the position of the satellite antenna you really don’t need it at all!

Okay, all for a sleek look. Cool. Thanks...maybe I will copy it..or not I have HD inserts in my top for the radar.

Little update on the hardtops Reid and Jeff have helped shape. The radar pod is its top and painted.







Cut another top today. This one is 88” wide and 120” long.

First hardtop looks very nice. Man that second one must be for a big boat! Pretty neat how you have things cut for line up.

I bought a 6' high tower for my radar. Thing is gonna be about 17' above sea level. A little worried it'll be shaky up there. We'll see. That is one big top you are building..

The top we cut yesterday goes on a custom 26 bertram. The last one Jeff cut is actually bigger. It is 96” wide by 138” long. It goes on a 34 venture. We just got an order and are finalizing shape for a top that will be 121” wide x 140” long.

Very nice DayTrip!!! Jeff

Building a key west style top for a 34 seevee. Another top that Jeff and Reid cut for us on the cnc

You guys sure do some impressive work!

Thanks! Truth be told that top is in the dumpster now. I under catalyzed resin AND the top stuck to the the mold!!! Double wamy. $1200 in materials in the toilet!

Oh well. First part we have ever had a failure like that.

Man that sucks for sure I guess even the pro's have a boo-boo every now and again. Makes the rest of us feel better

Thanks! Truth be told that top is in the dumpster now. I under catalyzed resin AND the top stuck to the the mold!!! Double wamy. $1200 in materials in the toilet!

Oh well. First part we have ever had a failure like that.

Bad news Jim!!! Jeff

Sorry man. Most of my mistakes were smaller, but we always faced this potential and we redid one of our panels of similar cost, but used the parts for non-hull components.

I'll never forget spending four hours pulling glass strands from db1700 laid in unmixed resins and being glad I was done, only to realize I only did half the glass..

Thanks! This is actually the first part that we literally thru away. Typically as you outlined they can be repurposed. Not this one! Actually have the biggest one we have built to date on the mold. Ends up being 6 pieces joined together. Jeff and Reid cut it as well.

Is that attached to a metal frame underneath?

How are the attachments made if so?

I have a hardtop about 53" wide by 60" long. Not sure how to attach it the the aluminum frame under just yet.

I figured mostly 5200, but it might look like shit.

Can you tell me what the teaser reels are all about? Off to youtube it.

Attachment is typically made one of two ways. First, most often used on smaller tops, is thru bolting. In the area you are bolting there are aluminum pads top and bottom and a hard point is developed using coosa or some other dense material in that area. Method two is used when an aluminum tube is built, typically in a ring connected to the legs, and the top is bolted to the top of the ring. The tubing is threaded to allow for a bling fastener. Most guys use a mushroom spacer that the bolt goes thru. The top is cored in the diameter of the “stem” of the mushroom. The bottom skin remains but the core is removed. The “canopy” of the mushroom bears on the top skin. They are made for various core thicknesses.

Teaser reels are used when trolling. Teaser baits are trailed with no hooks so really the reels are there to pull the, in and let them out. They vary in configuration but many are chains of artificial squid.

Any chance you can show me what you mean by mushroom spacer?

Off to google I go.

See attachment below. They look like a thru hull fitting

Thanks. So, you cut these bushings into the core and say bed them with 5200 and bolt goes through the aluminum below?

My core is pretty thin is all. Just 5/8 thick.

Probably need to find something else...darn

Fallguy you cut them off to size. One inch is the standard length and you cut to size.

Tom

TomW1 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 03, 2022 4:20 pm Fallguy you cut them off to size. One inch is the standard length and you cut to size.

Tom

How? Aren't they little aluminum pieces.

You could cut them. You could also you pvc pipe and a fender washer or one of the 3 or 4” pads they sell. A 3” pad has a surface area of 7 square inches. Not sure of the properties of your core but at 7 square inches you can apply a lot of compressive force and be within the core strength.

It is just a 4# corecell M.

Each side has a 17 oz woven is all.

That has 80 psi compression strength. So a 3” pad cold put 560 lbs of force on the core without deformation. Doesn’t take many pads to provide. Support

I have 5 places where coosa 20# can be used.

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 03, 2022 4:39 pm

TomW1 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 03, 2022 4:20 pm Fallguy you cut them off to size. One inch is the standard length and you cut to size.

Tom

How? Aren't they little aluminum pieces.

Push them in pull them out and cut to size. No they are not aluminum but hard plastic, Delrin I believe. Either way you would cut them off with a hacksaw and smooth them off.

Tom