fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 11, 2021 11:25 amRather obvious; herein lies the issue and why I asked for opinions on the 'loop'.
Throttle and shift cable setup help
Re: Throttle and shift cable setup help
I think sometimes its hard to accept the truth of the situation before us because it isn’t what we want it to be. I think the effort get yourself a test setup where you can run the motors, even if its annoying at the time. Is going to be less so than either stuff failing early or the first time you are in the water stuff breaking or just plain not working. Manufacturers don’t spend time and money making recommendations for no reason. If they don’t care there will be no recommendations, but they aren’t spending money on developing documentation or setup specifics if they aren’t needed.
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Re: Throttle and shift cable setup help
Yes, you need a loop as big as possible. I have one but its a bit tight so I have issues time and again. I had an issue yesterday with my controls. The bimini top came to rest on top of my loop, and even though it seemed to be able to move still it created a bind and I lost the ability to shift into gear. After moving the top, it still would not shift and I had to mess with them for 5 minutes before the bind was relieved.
Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe, and an FS17.
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Re: Throttle and shift cable setup help
Fallguy, you are using a "flyby wire systems" (no mechanical connection from helm to motor) to control throttle position, gear shift position and steering?
Is so:
Does it have the actuators mounted on the hull with cables going to motor like standard cables? That is why there is a need for loops?
Also, there is a processor(s) that controls the actuators per your input from the helm?
Fail safes built in to prevent starting in gear at WOT?
That would be why everything needs to be calibrated, first with key on engine off and then with the motors running?
Want the processors to see where the actuators are at idle, WOT and that R=R, N=N, and F=F. And if steering is involved, that L=L and R=R and dead center is dead center.
I am guessing it is NOT just a plug N play system that you just connect the cables to the motors, power up and everything is set and ready to go.
Is so:
Does it have the actuators mounted on the hull with cables going to motor like standard cables? That is why there is a need for loops?
Also, there is a processor(s) that controls the actuators per your input from the helm?
Fail safes built in to prevent starting in gear at WOT?
That would be why everything needs to be calibrated, first with key on engine off and then with the motors running?
Want the processors to see where the actuators are at idle, WOT and that R=R, N=N, and F=F. And if steering is involved, that L=L and R=R and dead center is dead center.
I am guessing it is NOT just a plug N play system that you just connect the cables to the motors, power up and everything is set and ready to go.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
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Re: Throttle and shift cable setup help
I got no room for a loop. The system is not fly by wire. It is fly by some wire and some cable.
Here is a picture or three.
Original rigging tube 42", ordered new 48" Plan home for actuator with 6' cables ordered. I will push the unit as close as I can to the engine.
Here is a picture or three.
Original rigging tube 42", ordered new 48" Plan home for actuator with 6' cables ordered. I will push the unit as close as I can to the engine.
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Re: Throttle and shift cable setup help
Not running engines until April.
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